|
Rattenbury’s VictoriaA City of Grand DesignBy Rick Millikan
Rattenbury added the Parliamentary Library (1912) over a decade later. Constructed with carrera marble, the Edwardian baroque library suggests a magnificent mausoleum. Provincial explorers and administrators stand in niches on columned facades, so many that an explanatory plaque was added outside. Medallions around the walls feature Shakespeare, Milton and classical scribes. Rattenbury’s flamboyant style is further shown just beyond Bastion Square (site of old Fort Victoria) on Government Street. Though typical era banks look somber, suggesting security and strength, Rattenbury’s Bank of Montreal (1896) resembled a castle with chateau roof, fanciful parapets, stonework friezes and gargoyles spouting rainwater. East of the Empress, we viewed Crystal Gardens (1925). Here, Rattenbury imitated seaside winter gardens of his youth, creating a heated salt-water recreation facility of steel and glass, complete with tearooms, wicker chairs and birds. Flower shows, graduation parties and popular tea dances were held there. Reopening in 1980 as an exotic enchanting tropical display garden, it was recently closed.
Taking a bus to nearby Oak Bay, we stayed in Ratz’s scenic home community. The Tudor Style Oak Bay Beach Hotel offered us an ambience of jolly old England. We could imagine Ratz with his wife Florence dropping by for its afternoon tea service, gazing over the hotel’s flourishing gardens toward the emerald islands beyond peaceful Oak Bay. Ratz may also have ducked into its pub, the Snug to raise a pint or two before stolling up the hill to check the progress on one of his beautiful slate built homes.
Like many Victorians, we greatly appreciate Rattenbury’s contributions and admire his extraordinary legacy. Through grand designs, this visionary architect helped create the majestic and distinctive B. C. capital. Photography by Chris Millikan Accommodations with Traditional Brit Ambience: Perched above the inner harbor, Gatsby Mansion www.gatsbymansion.com provides twenty Victorian style suites furnished in antiques including canopied beds. Transportation: Special Attractions: Craigdarroch Castle Bordering the historic inner harbour on Douglas Street Victoria’s Visitor Information Bureau www.travel-victoria.com provides self-guided maps for James Bay and Ross Bay Cemetery. Unique guided walking adventures can also be booked here. Across the street, Ratz’s Empress Hotel provides guided tours into its own venerable past. |
|
TM
A rambling search for Francis Rattenbury began at the
Gatsby Mansion (1897), once the “talk of the town”; now an elegant inn. Soap
manufacturer William Pendray built the gabled Queen Anne style mansion using
wood paneling, frescoes and stained glass shipped from Italy in barrels of
molasses. Furnished and decorated with antiques, our room resonated with
history. Once featured on popular postcards, his famous topiary gardens grew
below our suite. Beyond lay Victoria’s Inner Harbour, almost entirely designed
by Rattenbury, architect extraordinaire. 
Our window framed two of many extravagant Rattenbury-designed
structures. Resembling a Greek temple, the old C.P.R. Steamship Terminal (1924)
now houses Royal London Waxworks. The chateau-style Empress Hotel (1908) still
exemplifies subdued elegance and opulence. Blanketed with glorious green ivy,
this photographic “grand old lady” is often toured inside and out, offering
hundred year old traditions: high tea rituals; tall, cool drinks in the Bengal
Room and rose garden lingers. 
The most commanding stone edifice sprawls along the
adjacent block. Newly arrived from Britain, Rattenbury built the imposing B.C.
Legislative Building (1897), launching his influential career at age 25. The
contracted cost more than doubled over its five-year completion, but nobody
quibbled over extra expenses for the grand new home of government. The
spectacular structure reflected imperial dreams of the 19th century with copper
domes, a gilded George Vancouver atop the cupola and a Greco-Roman central
fountain. Each evening, over three thousand lights outline the majestic
structure. Originally celebrating Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee over a
century ago, the lighting remains a beloved tradition. 
Not only do his magnificent buildings embellish Victoria
and numerous other B.C. cities, several of his uniquely designed homes add zing
to several neighbourhoods. Rockland Avenue winds through Victoria’s most
prestigious neighborhood. We often wander through the extensive public gardens
fronting the residence of our B.C. Lieutenant-Governor. This time we strolled
through the majestic wrought iron gate scrutinizing Government House designed by
Francis Rattenbury. Though the original stately mansion (1909) burned down, the
carriage entry remained intact and the rebuilt home is based on Rattenbury’s
blueprints.
Converted into a private academy, his own home (1899) is
located a few blocks below on Beach Drive in Oak Bay. Surrounded by prim flower
gardens, it’s a picture postcard image of old England, with rustic stone work,
leaded glass and Tudor gables at the back. Divorcing Florence in 1925, she
brooded in this charming house until her death four years later. Perhaps the
romanticism reflected so elegantly in his projects was unsustainable in
marriage. Ratz had met a younger wartime heroine who taught piano in James Bay.
Bewitched and besotted, he married Alma Parkenham. Local society then
ostracized the renowned Rattenbury. Retiring to England, the famed architect
was murdered in 1935 by the chauffeur, Alma’s newest lover.