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South American Cuisine- East meats West

By Darryl Beeson

Some big culinary movements from South America are firmly placed in North Texas. Fogo de Chão arrived from Rio Grande do Sul in Southern Brazil. The centuries-old tradition of "churrasco" is otherwise known as "Me Tarzan, me meet meat, me eat." The concept is powerfully fulfilling, though. The array of proteins on a skewer is magnificent. In 1979, the first Fogo de Chão (fo-go dèe shoun) opened its doors in Porto Alegre, Brazil. Dallas was the first U.S. city for Fogo de Chão. The large salad and exotic cheese array resembles a grand kitchen table of the ancestors. Lots of food flavors and
seasonings are awaiting great wine pairings(reservations 972-503-7300, 4300 Beltline Road, Addison, Texas 75001). Be hungry for fantastic, flame pit grilled meats.

Then in 1994, Nobu New York, the flagship restaurant of Chef Nobu Matsuhisa, became a pioneer for South American inspired Japanese cuisine, partnering a restaurat with Drew Nieporent and Oscar-winning actor Robert De Niro to bring Nobu's fusion to New York.s Tribeca neighborhood. Nobu now holds court in many cities, including Dallas' Crescent Court Hotel (reservations,  call 214.252.7000, 400 Crescent Court, Dallas, 75201). The prices are scary both on the food menu and on the wine list; The selections could be more insightful. The staff could be more friendly and knowledgeable. The prices are outrageous, but the people watching is great.

Next, an innovative and musical team of investors brought Peruvian-Sushi fusion, in a sleek musical showroom to Arlington and called it Xouba (pronounced zo-ba). The chef knows his stuff. The cocktail menu includes the Saketini (sake, vodka, and a dash of ginger), the Bellatini (vodka, champagne, orange liqueur, and peach juice), and the destination's signature Martini, the Xoubatini (Grey Goose vodka, blue corn juice, and lime). The winelist is uninspired, but shows promise (reservations 817-462-3777, 2301
North Collins St, Suite 150, Arlington).

The exciting flavors and savory meat, then fresh, sometimes raw seafood combinations, demand certain wines from South America on the winelist. Here are some of the better wines that I discovered on some of the above restaurants' winelists. These wines are available at better retail wine shops and the prices shown are retail, not restaurant pricing, that being approximately double of retail pricing shown.

Veramonte Sauvignon Blanc, Casablanca Valley, Chile 2005 $10- The nose is vibrant with grapefruit, grass and melon. The sip enters with soft grapefruit and mineral in the long length on the palate. "Casablanca Valley in Chile is the premier place in the Southern Hemisphere to grow Sauvignon Blanc," proclaims wine maker Rafael Tirado.

Montes Chardonnay, Curico Valley, Chile 2005 $10- There are aromas of white fruit and soft oak. Then there are flavors of pear, fig and firm oak in the long finish. "The Chardonnay from this region can be a little fatter,"  observes founding partner Douglas Murray.

Casa Lapostolle "Cuvee Alexandra" Merlot, Colchagua, Chile 2004 $20 - The
color is dark. Gentle aromas of plum and oak are in the nose. The sip is rich with raspberry, plum and soft oak complexity in the long length.

Miolo Merlot, Vale dos Vinhedos, Brazil $12- Vale dos Vinhedos is located in the mountains of the State of Rio Grande do Sul (Serra Gaúcha), between the cities of Bento Gonçalves, Garibaldi and Monte Belo, the Vineyard Valley (Vale dos Vinhedos) is an area privileged by the tradition of production of fine wines and by being the first region of Brazil with geographical indication.

Veramonte Primus Red, Casablanca Valley 2003 $18- The blend is composed of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère, approximately broken down into thirds. The nose is big with ripe plum, mulberry and spice. Then there are flavors of red cherry, leather, pepper and exotic Asian spice within the long length on the palate.

Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon, Colchagua Valley, Chile 2004 $20- The sip explodes with black fruit, menthol, pepper and mint. The tannins are both firm and soft. Complexity of olive, oak and jam arise in the finish.

Don Miguel Gascon Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina 2003 $13- Dark purple in color, black cherry with Malbec's unique earthy tar note in the aroma. The sip is bright and predictably tart, with more cherry-berry fruit and zippy acidity, and pleasantly complex.

Afincado (Terrazas) "Compuertas-Single Vineyard" Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina 2002 $45- The nose strikes an elegant chord of ripe plum, floral, spice and mineral. There are flavors of black fruit, tar, menthol, spice and floral/violet character in the powerful, long length.

Cheval des Andes, Vistalba, Argentina 2002 $70- The blend is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Malbec. The nose is vibrant with a spectrum of dark fruit, spice and mineral. This fascinating, Bordeaux influenced red redefines the definition of World-Class. This red wine's cousin is the famous from the movie "Sideways," that being Cheval Blanc.

Also consider great cocktails from South America. "Caipirinha" (Brazilian rum-based drink prouounced 'KIE-PUR-REEN-YAHS') is a fresh, exotic cocktail, becoming as hot among international crowds as it is on Copacabana Beach. It blends Cachaça, sugar cane, lime juice and ice. It is always muddled (crushed with a masher or the blunt end of a wooden spoon).

The cocktail of Peru, perhaps borrowed from Peru by Chile, is the "PiscoSour." Combine two parts Pisco (the local clear grape brandy), one part lime juice, one  part simple syrup (granulated sugar melted in water), one egg white, three parts ice, then  Angostura bitters. Blend together Pisco, lime juice, simple syrup, and egg white with ice. Strain mixture into old-fashioned glasses. Top with a few drops of Angostura bitters.

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Darryl Beeson travels even to South America, looking for great wine finds.
Says writer Roy Blount, Jr., "Wine is tough, but I know Darryl can do it."
Cocktails are O.K. as well.

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