Cyprus – The Sunshine Island

By Gilly Pickup

I awoke to the view of the vineyard studded with olive trees. The sun, meanwhile, had risen several hours before I did. No wonder Alexander the Great and Cleopatra loved this island of legends while Aphrodite, alluring Greek goddess of love and beauty was born here and made it her home. After all, people do become rather possessive when faced with such enchantment ….

Besides its bracing pine-scented air, Byzantine churches, stirring ancient ruins and pristine beaches, Cyprus, the Mediterannean’s third largest island, ticks all the right holiday boxes. I had long wanted to visit this land of exotic fragrances which basks in year round sunshine and wasn’t disappointed when we finally met for the first time.

The coastal resort of Paphos in the country’s southwest, drips with history. Despite its vulnerability to foreign incursions throughout the centuries, it survived, retaining an indefinable, legendary charm. Remarkably, this tough little town, the country’s ancient capital, even managed to survive a devastating earthquake in the 4th century AD. In fact, Paphos bursts with so much historical and archaeological treasures that UNESCO decided the best thing was simply to add the whole town to its World Cultural Heritage list. Well, it was the least they could do really, when you consider the acres of fabulous treasures which have been unearthed, including mysterious vaults and caves, the Pillar to which Saint Paul was allegedly tied and whipped and remarkable mosaics still beautifully preserved after languishing under the soil for 16 centuries. The town is also home to numerous catacomb sites with histories that pre-date your great-grandfather. Possibly the most famous one is Saint Solomoni Church, with its l2th century frescoes. Legend has it that a sacred tree, the ‘rag tree’ which stands at the entrance, will banish any aches, pains or afflictions you may have. Apparently, all you have to do is dip a rag in the water under the tree, wrap one end round the wound and then attach the other end to a branch…….

The impressive underground Tombs of the Kings carved out of solid rock with its Doric pillars are spread over a wide area. And who cares about the slight misnomer? It was actually local VIPs and movers and shakers of the 4th century BC who were buried here rather than Kings, but these tombs are so magnificent you can forgive them for upgrading the status of the entombed. Nearby, the 2nd century Paphos Odeon, built entirely of limestone blocks, is now an amphitheatre used to great effect during the summer months for musicals performances.

But of course it’s not all history. Paphos is a higgledy-piggledy town, down at heel in places, with a harbour, medieval fort and laidback atmosphere. The town’s upper area, known as ‘Pano Paphos’ was once the centre. It lies on a rocky ledge and overlooks the tourist area of the lower town, known as ‘Kato Paphos’.

Children of all ages love visiting the Paphos Bird Park complete with tinkly waterfalls where you can delight at the aerobatic antics of a variety of colourful species. Here in acres of parkland set in an unspoiled natural environment you will see exotic parrots, toucans, eagles, owls, ducks and swans.

Animal lovers may also like to visit the Paphiakos Animal Welfare centre in lower Paphos. As well as being home to an assortment of dogs, cats, horses, donkeys, farm animals and guinea pigs, the centre holds fetes, themed dinner dances, fashion shows, musical events, boot sales and runs educational programmes for schools. Its coffee shop, ‘The T – Room’ is a great place to relax and enjoy a selection of tasty snacks and home made produce at competitive prices. And, if you want to sight-see in style, the Centre can also arrange to collect you from your hotel and take you to your chosen destination by rickshaw!

The island’s only other animal welfare centre, the Malcolm Cat Protection Society, held a wonderful art exhibition while we were there which was certainly well worth a visit. Visitors are welcomed at feeding time to make a fuss of the cats; they love attention!

I discovered this is a country of old stone villages squirrelled away, particularly in the majestic Troodos mountains where sweet wine flows as freely as conversations. This is where, just like grandfather’s clock on the wall, time seems to have ‘stopped short, never to go again’ and if you cannot find tranquility in the landscape and sheer centuries old appeal of it all, then you should probably stop trying. Apart from flocks of moufflons, mountain rams with thick, sinuous horns that live in protected reserves in the Troodos, you won’t find much sign of life besides perhaps a few hillwalkers and geologists.

Food in Cyprus is satisfying, sturdy and varied. Many everyday Cypriot foods - figs, beans, chick peas, bitter herbs, olives, dates, almonds and nuts date back to the Bible. If you order ‘Meze’ in a restaurant, you will receive an array of small dishes with salads, dips, beef, smoked ham, chicken, olives, cheeses, artichokes, houmous (ground chick peas with olives and garlic) and stuffed vine leaves. Remember to leave some room though, because you may want to try some of the island’s excellent fish - octopus, squid and sea bream are the tops. And no Cypriot meal would be complete without wrapping yourself round a dish of baklava – layers of puff pastry packed with nuts, fruits and golden syrup. If you prefer a selection of juicy fruit to finish your meal, you’ll be spoiled for choice with oranges, strawberries, apricots, prickly pears, pomegranates, figs and bananas – all thrive in this sun-kissed land.

Cosmopolitan Limassol, the island’s main port, is the country’s second largest city, heart of wine country and holiday resort. This is the location for the island's two top festivals, the pre-lenten Carnival with fancy dress balls and parades and the September Wine Festival, an extravaganza with free-flowing wine, courtesy of the local wineries, for everyone to enjoy.

It has another claim to fame because in the middle ages, it hosted the marriage of Richard the Lionheart with Berengaria of Navarre whom he crowned Queen of England. Thereafter the Crusaders made their headquarters at the Kolossi Medieval Castle, where history tells us they spent a lot of time brewing wines, particularly a sweet dessert wine ‘Commandaria’, said to be the oldest named wine in the world.

When your holiday is over, you’ll find plenty of Cypriot handicrafts to take home as gifts and souvenirs, from ceramic replicas of ancient pots found in museums, colourful basketware, lace and copperware. The sweet-toothed will probably opt for ‘Loukoumia’ also known as ‘Cyprus Delights’. These soft, chewy, sugar-covered sweets are available all over the island in every flavour imaginable including rose, lemon and ginger.

Photos and Text © Gilly Pickup

* For general information on Cyprus go to www.visitcyprus.org.cy

* Paphiakos & CCP Animal Welfare
www.cyprusanimalwelfare.org E: paphiakos.welfare@cytanet.com.cy

* Malcolm Cat Protection Society
www.malcolmcat.org E: catsanctuary@hotmail.com

Some Places To Stay and Be Pampered in Cyprus:
*The Thalassa at Annassa : www.thanoshotels.com
Won best spa in Europe in 2005 Conde Nast Traveller Spa Awards
Celebrity visitors you might bump into include Catherine Zeta Jones and Michael Douglas, Rod Stewart, Yasmin Le Bon

*Le Meridien Spa and Resort: www.lemeridien-cyprus.com
Winner of World's Leading Spa Resort 2004 and 2005 World Travel Awards
Unique indoor/outdoor Thalassotherapy is only one of its kind in Europe.

*The Retreat at Aphoridite Hills: www.aphroditehillsspa.com
Greco-Roman design with infinity pool overlooking the Mediterranean
Conde Nast Traveller Hot List of Top 10 European spasConde Nast Traveller Hot List Gold

*Opium Health Spa at the Elysium: www.elysium.com.cy
The island's only E'SPA spa - signature treatments include 'Aphrodite's Secret Fountain of Youth' and the 'Ancient Cyprus Ritual for Ultimate Wellbeing'. For the ultimate in pampering, guests can stay in the Royal Garden villas, which incorporate a sleeping gallery in the mezzanine with private pool.

*Anagenisis Spa at Thalassa: www.thalassa.com.cy
Holistic spa using local products such as mountain herbs, olive oil, yoghurt and Cypriot spiritzivania.
Butler service

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