Milwaukee is More than Mead
A Day trip to Milwaukee, Wisconsin
By Autumn Rhea Carpenter
 Popular
culture, namely movies and television shows, can dramatically impact one’s
perception of a geographic location. “Laverne & Shirley,” “Happy Days,” “Wayne’s
World,” and for the more obscure film lovers, “American Movie” all depict
Milwaukee, Wisconsin, as blue collar America, set amidst smokestacks, beer
drinking slackers, and unfortunate hairstyles. While most viewers understand
these are fictional characters, somehow the notion that the city and its people
live these lives seeps into our belief systems, and a slight prejudice evolves.
This German-influenced culture definitely revels in its beer, but Milwaukee has
been striving for several years to shed its “drinking city” reputation.
 We
ventured to Milwaukee from Rockford, Illinois, to celebrate my husband, Chris’
birthday. The Midwest drive produced rolling hills, dairy farms, and a fair
share of crazed drivers. Our first stop was lunch at Karl Ratzsch’s Restaurant.
The establishment has been serving German fare since 1904, and the main dining
room is filled with European steins, porcelain, and glassware collections.
Remarkably, our nearly two-year-old son, Aidan Rhea, managed the entire meal as
if fine dining was a regular occurrence in his short life. Our seasoned waiter
(who resembled actor Jeff Goldblum’s father) was
delightful, and highly knowledgeable on the various menu items. I chose a
broiled white fish, while Chris ordered the Black Forest Schnitzel, a breaded
veal cutlet, layered with smoked pork, Swiss cheese, spinach, mushroom sauce,
and spatzle (tiny noodles.) Aidan decided on fancy
chicken tenders, and was highly satisfied. We continued the celebration with a
chocolate éclair drowned in vanilla ice cream, chocolate, and cherries, and a
birthday wish. Ratzsch’s exudes Old World charm, and of actor
Leslie Nielsen, a younger Queen Elizabeth, and many
other celebrities and dignitaries eating at Ratzsch's, was proof postive that we
might just have good taste.
In an effort to burn some lunch calories, we walked to the
Historic Third Ward, which boasts the highest concentration of art galleries in
the city, numerous restaurants, theatres, condominiums, unique specialty stores,
and office spaces. The Milwaukee River is to the west, and Lake Michigan to the
east. The bustling area surprised us, as we were expecting a tamer downtown
experience. Seagulls squawked, the river flowed swiftly, and the urban city
dwellers basked in the spring day.
 In
1892, 16 square blocks of the historic area burned in the “Great Third Ward
Fire.” Reconstruction took 30 years, and today over 400 businesses function in
the mixed-use district. An $11 million renovation that began in 1999, gave the
Riverwalk an urban feeling that rivals many larger cities.
After window-shopping, we
found a park, where Aidan ran off excess energy. We saw several detailed art
sculptures, and intricate metal archway designs. As with any city park, there
was the local eccentric, sampling dandelions, and mumbling to himself. We later
learned that dandelions are a delicacy, with springtime festivals named in their
honor. Supposedly, some have made wine from the flowers, deep friend the
flowers, or included them in fresh springtime salads. Often called a weed,
Europeans have long appreciated the flower. The French cooked the greens with
bacon, and Italians used them with hot peppers. The farm-raised version tends to
be less bitter than the front yard fare, and should be sampled in early spring,
when they are most tender. So who knew? The odd weed eater was probably an
international chef, searching for the perfect ingredients. He continued taste
testing the plentiful flower buffet, and we ventured down the street, where we
found a fabulous paper store, called Broadway Paper.
The candy-colored store is a feast for any paper lover’s
senses. It has been in the current location since 2003, and offers a variety of
paper wares, including wrapping paper, stationery, greeting cards, specialty
paper, wedding and birth announcements, journals, and more. The cheerful staff
provided us with a map, and directed us to the Wicked Hop for a beverage.
 We
walked a block to find the hip hangout, which offered an upstairs view of the
day’s happenings. Decorated with vintage Hollywood posters and memorabilia, the
establishments sells the standard soups, sandwiches, and salads, and an
extensive list of beers, including Bell’s Oberon, New Glarus Spotted Cow,
Guiness Stout, and Full Tilt. We chanced it with Aidan, and he sat in a high bar
seat. (Luckily, no mishaps occurred.) It was a young professional bar scene, but
we did spot an unlikely site: a rat tail! Although I thought the 80s were over,
this guy was not a believer. Besides the shocking hair sighting and a strong
urge to locate a pair of scissors,
 The
Wicked Hop was an enjoyable break from our downtown trek.
Full of hop, we drove to Veteran’s Park,
where the rest of Wisconsin was inhaling the beautiful weather, either by
paddleboat, roller blade, bicycle, or foot. The Milwaukee Art Museum is located
at the south end, and a marina is located at the north end. The Lake Michigan
shoreline (Milwaukee’s Lakefront) is one of Wisconsin’s great natural amenities.
A plethora of kites tore through the sky, and we soon saw a kite store, Gift of
Wings, onsite. The shop sells flying cows, cars, tractors, and more, much to
Aidan’s delight.
By late afternoon, it was time for the road trip home. It
was a fun day of culture, food, and outdoors. Who knew Milwaukee would offer so
much diversity? Of course, as we walked to the car, we sang the requisite, ‘One,
two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight! Schlemiel! Schlemazl! Hasenpfeffer
Incorporated’ because we were in Milwaukee after all.
To learn more about the city of Milwaukee, visit The
Greater Milwaukee Convention Bureau.
http://www.milwaukee.org/
Travel Planner:
http://www.karlratzsch.com
http://www.historicthirdward.org/
http://www.broadwaypaper.com
http://www.thewickedhop.com/
http://www.county.milwaukee.gov/
http://www.giftofwings.com/lfw.html
by: Autumn Rhea Carpenter |
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