Looking at Manila by J. J. Scott “I can’t change how Manila looks but I can change how you look at Manila,” explained our guide, Carlos Celdran. Manila is not a city that immediately wins one over. The heat and the traffic can be intense. The city’s colonial history was bombed into oblivion during WW II. But there are many fascinating aspects of the city just waiting to be discovered.
 Within the walls: A walking tour with Carlos Celdran helps to change people’s impression of Manila. His tour starts at Intramuros, the walled portion of the city, and is as much street theater as history lesson. The tour starts with the singing of the Philippine national anthem. With a rapid-fire mix of history and humor the tour progresses through Manila’s history right up to when he dons sunglasses, puts a pipe in his mouth, and waving the American flag, becomes General Douglas MacArthur fulfilling his promise, “I shall return.”
From the beginning: The National Museum of the Filipino People has the skullcap of the Philippines’ earliest known inhabitant, Tabon Man, said to have lived 24,000 B.C.E. It is home to a vast collection that includes artifacts recovered from a Spanish galleon that sank in 1600, pre-Hispanic artifacts, and the Spoliarium, a painting from 1884 depicting Spanish rule.  The way it was: Casa Manila is a typical upper class Philippine home of the colonial period restored under the guidance of Imelda Marcos. The faithfully restored Spanish colonial home reflects the opulent lifestyle of the wealthy people of Manila during the 19th century. The three-story house is furnished with period antiques.
 Singing for dinner: The cuisine of the Philippines is a unique combination of many cultures. Kaldekaldero Restaurant provides traditional Filipino foods along with entertainment. All the waiters and cooks take turns singing American songs from the 50s, 60s, and 70s that are incredibly popular in Asia. Try adobo, the national dish of marinated chicken and pork, and Halo Halo, the yummy Philippine dessert is a that is a mixture of shaved ice, milk, sweet beans and fruits topped with ube, sweet yam ice cream. “Halo” means “mix” and the dessert could be the icon of Philippine culture. The Philippine culture is a fascinating mix of Asian, European, and American, with the American culture currently dominating.
Shop ‘til you drop: Manila is home to one of the largest mall in Asia. It would be right at home in any large American city. It is the everything mall with many of the big name anchor stores, the first IMAX in the Philippines, an Olympic-sized ice skating rink, a plethora of food outlets, and enough shopping opportunities to keep shopaholics happy.  Corregidor: At the mouth of Manila Harbor sits Corregidor, the second most bombed island during WW II. The new tourist slogan is evidence that WW II is fading into the past. “Visit Corregidor: A whole new fun experience!” There is a resort at the top of the “rock” and the island is promoted as a wedding destination and for corporate team building exercises. But most tourists take the 40-minute boat ride to the island to learn about the Battle of Corregidor. The guide explained, “The American base on the island was the pride of the military before WW II with the best facilities, including the Mile Long Barracks. It was considered a choice assignment. Then the war came.” The light and sound show in the Malinta Tunnel tells the story of the battles on Corregidor from the Japanese and American perspective. The 835-foot long tunnel had dozens of laterals and held Gen. MacArthur’s headquarters, a 1000-bed hospital, and supplies.
 Remembering: One of the most reflective places in Manila is located on a hill in Fort Bonifacio, Taguig City, in Manila. The Manila American Cemetery and Memorial with over 17,000 graves is the largest cemetery in the Pacific for U.S. personnel killed during World War II and also holds war dead from the Philippines and other allied nations. There is a chapel, and two large alfresco areas with mosaic maps that recall the war in Asia.
Coconut Palace: The Palace is another remnant from the time of Imelda Marcos. In anticipation of Pope John Paul II’s visit and at great expense, she ordered a grand palace to be built that would showcase the nation’s crafts and materials. The pope never visited the palace, which is now used for weddings and other events. Each of the suites on the second floor is named after a specific region of the Philippines and displays some of the handicrafts these regions produce.  Getting around: After WW II, the American Jeeps that were left behind were elongated and brightly painted to become Jeepneys that are now the typical means of inexpensive transportation. As one guide explained, “We sit knee-to-knee in the Jeeps so we call them Jeep-neys.” The tricycle, or pedicar, which is now more often a motorbike with a sidecar and is useful for short hops. Of course, there are taxis, buses, and Metro Rail Transit. Most visitors will rely on taxis, which are reasonably priced.
 Day tripping: For a tasty day trip take the Quezon Kulinarya Tour offered by the department of tourism. A trip to the countryside always offers a refreshing respite from the city. The culinary tour not only includes tasty delights but it also is cultural. At Dealo Koffee Klatch learn how to make kiping, which are fashioned into flowers and fruit displays used to decorate homes on May 15 in honor of St. Isidro Labrador. If kiping is cooked it can be eaten like potato chips.
  Recommended accommodations: In Malate the Pan Pacific, www.panpacific.com/Manila, offers a central location with an expansive view of Manila from the Pan Pacific Lounge. In upscale Makati, the Peninsula’s in-house musicians provide free entertainment in elegant surroundings - http://manila.peninsula.com.
For more information check www.tourism.gov.ph | 