Return To Jordan

Middle East Oasis

by Robert Painter

Even if you can’t envision Lawrence of Arabia charging across the desert of Wadi Rum at least you can probably remember the fabulous scenes of Indiana Jones crashing through Petra with the fabled Treasury in the background. You may know that Petra has been named one of the seven wonders of the modern world – and for good reason.

Nothing I can say will prepare you for the majesty and beauty of Petra. Walking the half mile through the gorge known as the Siq is spectacular itself, reminiscent of some of the beautiful slot canyons of the American southwest. As you reach the end of the Siq you begin to get glimpses of the Treasury and, when you walk into the opening, the magnificent façade towering 40 meters overhead is breathtaking. If you hadn’t planned to spend the entire day wandering the red rose city of Petra you may find your plans have just changed. 

This should be a wonderful day of discovery. You’ll want to visit the Theatre that seated 4,000 people in its prime. The Royal Tombs are impressive.  You may find it hard to believe that the swirling colors in the Silk Tomb are natural rock formations.  When you discover the very well preserved mosaics on the floor of the Church try to imagine that they have been there since perhaps the 5th century AD. Continuing your journey through Petra you will find the Colonnaded street and eventually happen upon the Monastery, as impressive as the Treasury, at least to some.  

Probably the best time to see Petra is late afternoon and early morning, both for the light and, in the summer, for the temperature. But you can easily make a day of it by taking a mid-day break and eating at a restaurant near the monastery. Besides, you’ll need some time for a camel ride – if you don’t do it here why would you want to do it anywhere? 

As long as you’re making a day of it in Petra it might be a good idea to check into a nearby hotel and you won’t do much better than the Nabatean Castle Hotel Petra. And finish off the day with an interesting evening preparing your own dinner at the Petra Kitchen. I promise it will turn out to be delicious even if you don’t consider yourself a gourmet cook.      The Petra Kitchen is a unique program that allows visitors to work alongside Jordanian women, under the supervision of the head chef, in preparing the evening meal. You will don an apron and work side by side in the kitchen preparing the various courses for the meal. Once the meal is prepared, the work tables are cleared, chairs are brought in and the tables are set with fine Jordanian linens. Afterwards you may enjoy the craft shop upstairs that is filled with Jordanian products, some of which are produced by the Jordan River Foundation.  

As much as Petra is magical, Wadi Rum is mystical. The vast expanse of ever changing red sand blowing across the desert means that every view you see today will somehow be changed if you look again tomorrow.  Lying beside an open fire in a Bedouin camp under the stars that seem close enough to touch one cannot help but dream of Lawrence of Arabia charging by on a great, white Arabian stallion.  It could have been a camel, but for my dreams I prefer the horse.  Maybe it is because on my last visit to Jordan I had the opportunity to talk with Princess Alia at the Royal Stables where she told me that her passion is caring for the fine Arabians. Or maybe I remember Peter O’Toole in the movie.  No matter – Wadi Rum is a special place that you should not miss and it seems imperative that you spend at least one night in this special place. A peaceful night under the stars, a little red sand in your shoes and you’ll be destined to return, as was I.

After you have spent a night “roughing it” in Wadi Rum (it’s really very comfortable) you might want to check into the Evason Ma’In Hot Springs & Six Senses Spa.  Be prepared for a bit of luxury at 264 meters below sea level with hot springs that really are hot!  The resort prides itself on offering a great variety of Jordanian Life experiences with difficulty levels ranging from easy to extreme. Trekking, cycling, canyoning or whatever you choose, you can always know that at the end of the day you can dip in the pool or slip into the wonderfully healing and rewarding hot springs where the water flows down off the cliffs. Soak in the warm water, paddle over to the really hot water or stand under the falls for a really great shower – the choice is yours.  And, when you’ve worked up an appetite be assured that there is a fabulous meal waiting in one of the dining areas.  But, whatever you do, don’t forget your appointment at the Six Senses Spa, located directly under one of the natural hot springs waterfalls. They offer a full menu of treatments including the healing mineral and deep sea therapies in ten treatment rooms.

If you’re looking for a different kind of adventure head back up to sea level. Red Sea level – at Aqaba. This is a perfect place for lots of water sports. Sailing may be just the way you’d like to spend a leisurely day on the water.  How about a glass bottomed boat or a submarine to see what’s under water. Better yet, don your scuba gear or snorkel and get up close to the beautiful undersea scenery. In mid-summer you may see whale sharks and in February expect to see mantas gliding gracefully through the water. As you might expect they have windsurfing, waterskiing and jet-skiing, too.  There are even campsites on the beach for the more hardy and adventuresome. 

Can you even claim to have seen Jordan without a visit to the Dead Sea? With a number of fine luxury hotels along the waterfront you can’t go wrong here.  The Moevenpick and the Marriott are two of my favorites. There is even a new Holiday Inn Express that has just opened for the more budget conscious. It is beautiful and has a terrific little beach where you can coat yourself in the traditional black mud.  Just let the sun bake it on and then dip in the Dead Sea.  Or at least try to dip.  The water has such a high salt content that it really doesn’t want you to go below the surface.  You’ll find yourself bobbing around like a cork. De rigueur, of course, is to have someone take your photo while you’re lying on your back on top of the water reading a newspaper. Hey, why not – it’s all in fun and isn’t that what a vacation is for? Trust me you won’t sink. You can’t sink! 

I’d like to tell you about the Dana Nature Reserve, but I’ll have to save that for another story. That’s where I’ll be heading on my next visit to Jordan. That trip will be all about Adventure and the Wild Side of Jordan. Looks like I already have a name for the story – just have to experience it first.  But, I can tell you about a wonderful place on the western edge of the Reserve called the Feynan Ecolodge. It’s a special place filled with candlelight – no electricity in the rooms – and serenity. With a rooftop open to guests it’s a perfect place to spend another night under the stars.  There are plenty of mats up there that work quite well as mattresses.  But, the really special part of this particular evening was an invitation to spend a few hours as a guest at a private Bedouin home, sharing tea and conversation. Our hosts were quite open and willing to answer any and all questions we had about life in the Jordanian desert.  I recall from my last trip to Jordan that I found this country to be one of the most hospitable places that I had ever visited.  It hasn’t changed. 

About an hour north of Amman, the ancient city of Jerash is one of the finest preserved Roman cities in the world. There is much to see and do in Jordan, but allow yourself at least a few hours to wander about the remnants of this magnificent city. It is quite extensive and you’ll want to occasionally just sit and soak up the atmosphere, imagining what it must have been like to live during this time and in this place.  The colonnaded streets, the amphitheatre, most of the structures were lost and buried in sand for many, many years which probably accounts for the remarkably fine condition it is in today. The city walls, the temples, the plazas, the baths, the fountains are all waiting for your visit. And, to get an idea of what took place in the hippodrome, a daily presentation with 40+ Roman legionnaires in full battle gear offers a picture of Roman battle tactics, followed by fighting gladiators and even a chariot race.  All in good fun and maybe even authentic. 

Amman, the capital of Jordan, is spread out over a number of hills. Dominating one of the hills is the Temple of Hercules.  In the park beside the temple is the Jordan Archeological Museum containing a collection of Dead Sea Scrolls and other artifacts of the area. Remember that Jordan has great religious significance, from Mount Nebo where Moses viewed the Promised Land to Bethany on the Jordan where John the Baptist baptized Jesus. 

The city is a mix of modern and traditional. There is a beautiful Roman amphitheatre in the heart of the city and it is surrounded by great shopping in the nearby souks or markets.  To learn more of the history of the reign of King Hussein you will want to visit the Royal Automobile Museum.  This extraordinary museum offers an historical timeline revolving around the cars and motorcycles used by the king.  Please see the link at the end of this story for a narrative of my visit.  Please don’t fail to visit the Royal Stables.  I can’t imagine that you will have an opportunity to see more beautiful Arabian horses than here.  And you will see them up close in their stalls and running in their corrals.  If you’re lucky, maybe Princess Alia will be here to tell you about her passion for these fine animals. 

I think one thing to do while visiting Amman that is absolutely mandatory is this. You must visit a mosque.  My choice for you would be the beautiful King Abdullah Mosque. Please be respectful, dress appropriately and you will be warmly welcomed.  In a Muslim country it is fitting that you have the opportunity to visit this important part of the culture.

There is a way to make your visit to Jordan even more special than you might imagine. In Amman there is a place that can make this trip stand out in your memory that could even surpass Petra, Wadi Rum, Jerash and all the marvels of this desert oasis.  I spent just a short time with a young man by the name of Yanal Al Hindi and his physical therapist Tasneem Ayesh. I sure hope I spelled those names correctly! Yanal is a powerful little guy with spina bifida. His strength is probably more in his mind than in his little body.  My task was to assist him in walking around the halls of the Al-Hussein Society for the Habilitation/ Rehabilitation of the Physically Challenged.  Well, I can tell you that my job was easy. I tried to assist, but it turned out I was probably more of a hindrance than a help.  Yanal was wound up and ready to go.  I think I was helpful in getting him into his braces and gear, but once on his feet he was a tiger – or should I say camel.  Maybe, more of a small Arabian stallion! I did have a chance to tour much of the facility and it seems that there are plenty of volunteer opportunities. Everything from reading, computers, physical activities – you name it.  I’m sure the staff can find a job for you.  I’m just sorry I didn’t have more time. Next time I’ll know – and I’ll be looking in on Yanal for sure.   

Keep on Traveling!

When You Go:

Royal Jordanian Airlines: http://www.rj.com

Jordan Tourism Information: www.VisitJordan.com.

Evason Ma’in Hot Springs & Six Senses Spa:  www.sixsenses.com/Evason-Ma-In

Feynan Eco Lodge: http://www.feynan.com/about.html

The Petra Kitchen: http://www.jordanjubilee.com/hcrafts/petrakitchen.htm

Royal Automobile Museum: http://www.royalautomuseum.jo/main.asp  and read my story here: http://www.carladynews.com/articles/March10/royal.html

Al-Hussein Society for the Habilitation/ Rehabilitation of the Physically Challenged.  Volunteer Opportunity- find contact info right here: http://www.ahsrehab.org.

Jordan the first time around: http://travellady.com/Issues/September06/3536CrossingJordan.htm.

Story and Photos by Robert Painter, Adventure Travel Editor <