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Jazz, Wine, Shaw, and a Taste of NiagaraBy Jamie RossIn shorts, sweatshirts, sandals, and sunglasses, we sat in the grassy courtyard of the Hillebrand Estate Winery tapping our feet to the sultry rhythm of jazz. It was not the warm, sunny day for which we had hoped, however the music, red wine, french bread, pate, and tempting cheese assortment, gave the gathering a delicious coziness and warmth that the breezy, drizzly day could not upset. Throughout the grounds, umbrellas and protective awnings sheltered folding chairs and tables, replete with fine linen, crystal, elegant, carefully prepared picnics, wine, and even small flower arrangements, set up by visitors who obviously have this jazz festival experience down to an art. So, with the sound of live music from some of Canada’s premier jazz musicians resonating through the grape vines, I contemplated that this 14th Annual Vineyard Jazz concert is, in essence, what the charming town of Niagara-on-the-Lake is all about, “delicious food, fine wines, and relaxation.”
The picturesque paved trail meandred along the banks of the Niagara River, past beautiful stone homes, historic inns, orchards, vineyards, and wineries. We pedalled down to the waterfront to watch jet boats departing for a quick trip upriver to the famous falls, and then visited historic Fort George, where staff in period costume and uniform re-enact daily life in the garrison circa 1812, when the fort’s cannons faced Fort Niagara on the American side of the river. When a light drizzle began to fall, we slipped into the Buttery Restaurant on main street for Steak and Kidney pie and a dark beer.
With the Jazz Festival drawing to a close, our group of four had a dinner date on the terrace of the Hillebrand’s Vineyard Café, overlooking the picturesque Stone Road Vineyard and the Niagara Escarpment. Well, more than a dinner, our meal was to be a culinary adventure, an exploration of the wonderful relationship between wine and food. The gentlemen ordered the “Tour of Niagara” with accompanying wine, and the ladies countered with the “Chef’s Tasting Menu.” What followed was a delightful integration of the area’s fine wines with the regional cuisine unique to Niagara - with our knowledgeable waiter Drew Walker acting as our personal guide and educator.
But back to the wine - after enduring Shaw’s whimsical play, we wandered through the galleries and shops of Queen Street, settling on the Shaw Wine Bar and Café as an excellent place to sit and discuss Bernard’s message. Sipping a barrel-aged Gamay Noir while looking down at the tree-lined main street, with its flower gardens and restored buildings, I raised a salute to the poet William Kirby who wrote, back in 1896, that “Niagara is as near heaven as any town whatever.” After our enchanting weekend in Niagara-on-the-Lake, we realize things have not changed very much. Where to Stay ...From five diamond hotel properties to charming inn and bed and breakfast homes, there are plenty of accommodation properties. Reservations can be arranged through the Chamber of Commerce Accommodation Booking Service. We stayed at the engaging and very comfortable Bayberry Bed and Breakfast, where we were well looked after by Dorothy and Erwin Wiens. The B & B sat in a peaceful location looking out over the vineyards. Bayberry Bed and Breakfast Chamber of Commerce Accommodation Booking Service Attractions ...Hillebrand Estates Winery The Shaw Festival Theatre Zoom Leisure Images by Jamie Ross |
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Actually, the earlier part of our day had been spent
with a respectable amount of exercise. We had rented bicycles to do some
winery-hopping. With our trail map in hand, and following the blue wine
route signs, we cycled through the beautiful vineyard estates, stopping at
the renowned Peller Estates, Inniskillin, Jackson-Triggs, Reif Estate, and
Marynissen wineries to sample their remarkably diverse offerings. Winemakers
and their staff at the taster bars showed us how to taste and evaluate wine
by colour, clarity, aroma, and flavour.
The Niagara Peninsula is recognized internationally as
an outstanding wine producing locale, with a unique mesoclimate similar to
that of the great wine producing regions of the world. The two Great Lakes,
Ontario and Erie, moderate temperatures, ensuring the cool springs and long
autumns that are ideal for growing grapes. Just over an hour’s drive from
Toronto and ½ hour from Buffalo, the Niagara Peninsula is home to over 40
wineries. And no longer are they simply purveyors of excellent wines - the
wineries have done an outstanding job of tapping into tourism, offering
visitors the complete wine country experience. Open year round, they welcome
guests with tours, tastings, special events, and the opportunity to
experience regional cuisine in their on-site restaurants.
I don’t want to make it sound like all we did was eat
and drink wine during our weekend visit to Niagara-on-the-Lake; the
beautiful region is also home to the Shaw Festival theatre. We enjoyed a
Friday evening performance of Canadian playwright Michel Marc Bouchard’s
“Coronation Voyage” and, on a lazy Sunday afternoon, were mystified by
George Bernard Shaw’s “Misalliance.” The second largest repertory theatre in
North America, the Shaw stages eleven productions each season in its three
theatres, to an international audience of some 350,000 people.