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Retreat to the Stonewall Inn
History comes alive at this Lake Michigan Inn
By Angela Wibking
The
Civil War ended in 1865. But don’t tell Ignatius, the Union soldier on
permanent duty outside the Lincoln Bedroom at the Stonewall Inn in
Frankfort, Michigan. Square-jawed and armed to the hilt, Ignatius must be
reckoned with if you plan to pass the night in this elegant guestroom filled
with memorabilia relating to America’s 16th president.
Granted, Ignatius is actually a mannequin but he’s so
realistic it’s easy to mistake him for the genuine article. Authentically
attired in a Union uniform, Ignatius is part of an impressive Civil War
collection that belongs to the inn’s owners Sandy and Dave Jackson. But the
collection of Union memorabilia, artfully displayed throughout the
guestrooms and public spaces, is just one of the Stonewall Inn’s many
charms.
The
stately Victorian Italianate structure was built around 1863 when the Civil
War was raging many hundreds of miles to the south. The grand house was home
to two families over its first 100 years but then sat empty during the 1970s
and fell into disrepair. New owners lovingly restored it in 1987 and
eventually converted it to an inn filled with every modern comfort in 1996.
The Jacksons purchased the inn in April 2002, adding the Civil War
collection and the beautifully landscaped gardens. They also renamed it the
Stonewall Inn – a play on the owners’ last name and the famed Confederate
Civil War figure Stonewall Jackson. “The name is the only thing Southern
about the inn, though,” jokes Sandy.
After
our stay there, we’d have to add that the Jacksons’ hospitality is also of
the famous “Southern” variety. Service here is attentive but never
intrusive, friendly but never overbearing. You can interact with your hosts
and fellow guests as much or as little as you like. We loved talking with
Sandy over the delicious full breakfast she cooks each morning and seeing
Dave, a coach at the local high school, before he left to conduct summer
basketball camp. Not only are Sandy and Dave personable and interesting
folks in their own right, they also have the inside track on everything from
local dining and ice cream to the best places to catch the stunning Lake
Michigan sunsets.
In
addition to its fascinating 19th century past, the Stonewall Inn has all the
creature comforts we 21st century travelers have come to expect. Each of the
inn’s four individually decorated guest rooms has its own private bath and
there’s also a 1-bedroom cottage on the grounds for those who prefer even
more space and privacy. Our favorite room was our own – the Caroline
Bedroom, located upstairs and named after two different Carolines who spent
summers in the house back in 1915. Features include a large bathroom with
walk-in shower, an antique white iron queen bed, windows affording views and
cooling lake breezes from three sides and a delightful pink, blue and white
country Victorian décor.
The
other guestrooms are equally inviting. There’s the Lincoln Bedroom on the
first floor, richly furnished with antiques and Lincoln memorabilia. The
Cooper Bedroom, also on the first floor, has a patriotic color scheme that
highlights a collection of artifacts belonging to Col. William Cooper, who
served with the 22nd Ohio Volunteers during the Civil War. Even the smallest
guestroom has a charming history. Overlooking the gardens, the Elvira
Bedroom is named after a young woman who lived in the house in the late 19th
century. The story goes that when Elvira was contemplating marriage, she
became uncertain of her suitor. She took the ring he had given her and
scratched her name on a window pane in the room, telling herself that since
the diamond was authentic so were her suitor’s feelings. The couple married
and evidently lived happily ever after and today, guests in Elvira’s old
room can still read her name etched into the glass pane. The Elvira
Bedroom’s private bath across the hall also boasts a rare copper tub from
New York Governor Samuel J. Tilden's summer home.
All
of this would be more than enough to recommend the Stonewall Inn. But when
you factor in Sandy’s scrumptious baked blueberry French toast in the
morning and a location that’s just a few blocks from the beach and
Frankfort’s charming Main Street, you have the perfect retreat. We highly
recommend Rhonda’s Wharfside restaurant for a relaxed fine dining experience
(don’t miss the signature fried green beans with sweet chili sauce and
roasted peanuts), followed by a stroll along the beach past the Frankfort
lighthouse. You’ll also want to enjoy a cool treat from the Dairy Maid, an
old fashioned dairy dip frequented by locals, grab a chunk of fudge from The
Cool Spot and savor a Michigan cherry fritter at the bakery on Main Street.
Browse the shops for unique clothing, home furnishings, books and art. Cap
off your day with a first run movie at the Garden, Frankfort’s vintage
downtown movie theatre, or enjoy a double feature at the Cherry Bowl
Drive-In Theater in nearby Beulah.
As
if all that isn’t enough, there are the outdoor attractions just outside the
Stonewall Inn’s front door. Don’t miss Sleeping Bear Dunes National
Lakeshore, 25 miles north of the inn, where the towering sand dunes and
endless lake vistas reminded us of the Caribbean and Pacific. Sunset fans
and shutterbugs will want to grab their cameras and head for Pt. Betsie, a
5-minute drive from the inn, where a red and white lighthouse framed by
lilac bushes and the clear blue lake awaits. Canoeing, kayaking, fishing and
hiking opportunities also abound.
Stonewall Inn is a 5-hour drive from Chicago and a 2
½-hour drive from Grand Rapids. We enjoyed a mid-June retreat there but the
inn is truly a destination for all seasons. Book a room at the Stonewall Inn
the last two weekends in October or the first two weekends in November and
hear Dave, a veteran Civil War re-enactor, tell Civil War ghost stories in
the inn’s candlelit parlor. Stay at the inn the first two weekends in
December and experience a classic small-town American holiday that includes
cutting your own Christmas evergreen at a nearby tree farm. If you’re a ski
buff, consider a winter retreat at the inn, which is just 20 minutes from
the Crystal Mountain downhill slopes and cross-country trails.
FOR MORE INFORMATION
Stonewall Inn
428 Leelanau Avenue
Frankfort, MI 49635
Ph: (231) 352-9299
http://www.stonewallinnbb.com
Photographs by Virgil Fox
**Please place under:
DESTINATION: USA, Central States, Michigan; SPECIAL
INTERESTS: Best Bed and Breakfasts, Heritage Travel and Weekend Getaways.
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