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Retreat to the Stonewall Inn

History comes alive at this Lake Michigan Inn

By Angela Wibking

The Civil War ended in 1865. But don’t tell Ignatius, the Union soldier on permanent duty outside the Lincoln Bedroom at the Stonewall Inn in Frankfort, Michigan. Square-jawed and armed to the hilt, Ignatius must be reckoned with if you plan to pass the night in this elegant guestroom filled with memorabilia relating to America’s 16th president.

Granted, Ignatius is actually a mannequin but he’s so realistic it’s easy to mistake him for the genuine article. Authentically attired in a Union uniform, Ignatius is part of an impressive Civil War collection that belongs to the inn’s owners Sandy and Dave Jackson. But the collection of Union memorabilia, artfully displayed throughout the guestrooms and public spaces, is just one of the Stonewall Inn’s many charms.

The stately Victorian Italianate structure was built around 1863 when the Civil War was raging many hundreds of miles to the south. The grand house was home to two families over its first 100 years but then sat empty during the 1970s and fell into disrepair. New owners lovingly restored it in 1987 and eventually converted it to an inn filled with every modern comfort in 1996. The Jacksons purchased the inn in April 2002, adding the Civil War collection and the beautifully landscaped gardens. They also renamed it the Stonewall Inn – a play on the owners’ last name and the famed Confederate Civil War figure Stonewall Jackson. “The name is the only thing Southern about the inn, though,” jokes Sandy.

After our stay there, we’d have to add that the Jacksons’ hospitality is also of the famous “Southern” variety.  Service here is attentive but never intrusive, friendly but never overbearing. You can interact with your hosts and fellow guests as much or as little as you like. We loved talking with Sandy over the delicious full breakfast she cooks each morning and seeing Dave, a coach at the local high school, before he left to conduct summer basketball camp. Not only are Sandy and Dave personable and interesting folks in their own right, they also have the inside track on everything from local dining and ice cream to the best places to catch the stunning Lake Michigan sunsets.

In addition to its fascinating 19th century past, the Stonewall Inn has all the creature comforts we 21st century travelers have come to expect. Each of the inn’s four individually decorated guest rooms has its own private bath and there’s also a 1-bedroom cottage on the grounds for those who prefer even more space and privacy. Our favorite room was our own – the Caroline Bedroom, located upstairs and named after two different Carolines who spent summers in the house back in 1915. Features include a large bathroom with walk-in shower, an antique white iron queen bed, windows affording views and cooling lake breezes from three sides and a delightful pink, blue and white country Victorian décor.

The other guestrooms are equally inviting. There’s the Lincoln Bedroom on the first floor, richly furnished with antiques and Lincoln memorabilia.  The Cooper Bedroom, also on the first floor, has a patriotic color scheme that highlights a collection of artifacts belonging to Col. William Cooper, who served with the 22nd Ohio Volunteers during the Civil War. Even the smallest guestroom has a charming history. Overlooking the gardens, the Elvira Bedroom is named after a young woman who lived in the house in the late 19th century. The story goes that when Elvira was contemplating marriage, she became uncertain of her suitor. She took the ring he had given her and scratched her name on a window pane in the room, telling herself that since the diamond was authentic so were her suitor’s feelings. The couple married and evidently lived happily ever after and today, guests in Elvira’s old room can still read her name etched into the glass pane. The Elvira Bedroom’s private bath across the hall also boasts a rare copper tub from New York Governor Samuel J. Tilden's summer home.

All of this would be more than enough to recommend the Stonewall Inn. But when you factor in Sandy’s scrumptious baked blueberry French toast in the morning and a location that’s just a few blocks from the beach and Frankfort’s charming Main Street, you have the perfect retreat. We highly recommend Rhonda’s Wharfside restaurant for a relaxed fine dining experience (don’t miss the signature fried green beans with sweet chili sauce and roasted peanuts), followed by a stroll along the beach past the Frankfort lighthouse. You’ll also want to enjoy a cool treat from the Dairy Maid, an old fashioned dairy dip frequented by locals, grab a chunk of fudge from The Cool Spot and savor a Michigan cherry fritter at the bakery on Main Street. Browse the shops for unique clothing, home furnishings, books and art. Cap off your day with a first run movie at the Garden, Frankfort’s vintage downtown movie theatre, or enjoy a double feature at the Cherry Bowl Drive-In Theater in nearby Beulah. 

As if all that isn’t enough, there are the outdoor attractions just outside the Stonewall Inn’s front door. Don’t miss Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, 25 miles north of the inn, where the towering sand dunes and endless lake vistas reminded us of the Caribbean and Pacific. Sunset fans and shutterbugs will want to grab their cameras and head for Pt. Betsie, a 5-minute drive from the inn, where a red and white lighthouse framed by lilac bushes and the clear blue lake awaits. Canoeing, kayaking, fishing and hiking opportunities also abound.

Stonewall Inn is a 5-hour drive from Chicago and a 2 ½-hour drive from Grand Rapids. We enjoyed a mid-June retreat there but the inn is truly a destination for all seasons. Book a room at the Stonewall Inn the last two weekends in October or the first two weekends in November and hear Dave, a veteran Civil War re-enactor, tell Civil War ghost stories in the inn’s candlelit parlor. Stay at the inn the first two weekends in December and experience a classic small-town American holiday that includes cutting your own Christmas evergreen at a nearby tree farm. If you’re a ski buff, consider a winter retreat at the inn, which is just 20 minutes from the Crystal Mountain downhill slopes and cross-country trails.  

FOR MORE INFORMATION

Stonewall Inn
428 Leelanau Avenue
Frankfort, MI 49635
Ph: (231) 352-9299
http://www.stonewallinnbb.com

Photographs by Virgil Fox

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DESTINATION: USA, Central States, Michigan; SPECIAL INTERESTS: Best Bed and Breakfasts, Heritage Travel and Weekend Getaways.

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