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The Riviera del Conero

By Sheridan Rogers

An aquamarine sea, hidden coves, steep cliffs, narrow stretches of beach curved around dramatic headlands, old fishing villages full of history.

You probably think you’re on the Italian Riviera, that magnificent sweep of coastline which runs along the Mediterranean from France to the Cinque Terre in Liguria.

And you wouldn’t be mistaken.

But – and here’s the clinch - were you aware that there is another Riviera, also magnificent, over on the west coast of Italy?

The Riviera del Conero, south of the busy port of Ancona on the Adriatic Sea, is relatively unknown to Australians.

Named after the stunning limestone headland at Portonovo which juts like an elbow out into the sparkling sea, it is less extensive than its western sister on the Gulf of Genoa, but  full of surprises nevertheless.

Situated in the fertile region of Le Marche, where wheat, sunflower and lavender fields form a patchwork of pretty patterns marching down to the sea, the coastline here can be very rugged and steep in parts. Some beaches, like the spectacular ‘Due Sorelle’ (which takes its name from two large rocks rising out of the water) can be reached only by boat or on difficult paths. In Spring and Summer, when the broom is in flower, its vivid yellow colour makes an arresting contrast to the semi-wild vegetation clinging to the rocky white outcrops.

In the background looms Mount Conero, a large chalky mountain thrust 572 metres out of the sea during the Miocene era. A 5800 hectare park has been established around the mountain and you can hike the flower-swathed slopes from Poggio di Sant’Antonio to Belvedere in four hours whilst enjoying panoramic views of the beaches well away from the tourist crowds. Ask for a map at the Tourist Office in Sirolo.  Around the edges of the promontory grow the Monetpulciano and Sangiovese vines from which ‘Il Rosso del Conero’ - the local dry red wine – is made. In fact it was Pliny the Elder who first mentioned wine growing here. The white wine grape Verdicchio is also extensively grown in the region.

Whilst it’s difficult not to be distracted by the beauty of the Conero area, you need to be careful when driving on the winding roads especially those leading into Portonovo, Sirolo and Numana. The road down to the sea at Portonovo is steep and circuitous and though you might be tempted to stay at the seductive Hotel Emilia on the ridge above, you’ll find it well worthwhile to venture below to the Hotel Internazionale. You’ll dine well here  - try the sensational oysters from Civitanova, the ‘straciatella’ soup and spaghetti alla chitarra with scampi and hen clams. A drink before dinner on the outdoor terrace is a must – the view from here over the Conero headland and medieval watchtower below is breathtaking and in summer, multi-coloured spider geraniums cascade over the hotel’s many balconies.

The white pebbly beach can be hard to walk on and the pebbles make it difficult to get into the water.  Once in, you’ll float easily as the water is very salty and warm.

Make sure you set aside time to lunch at Da Emilia, a converted fisherman’s hut, run by the entertaining Rubini family since 1929. Mama Maresa cooks fabulous ‘spaghetti alle cozze’ (mussels) along with other local seafood dishes. Franco, her husband, runs around in a Charlie Chaplinesque manner looking after the tables and keeping everyone happy. If you’re lucky, their bronzed slim fisherman son Eduardo might even take you on his boat to visit one of the nearby grottoes. The restaurant looks out over rows of ubiquitous blue and white striped umbrellas to the headland beyond.

Portonovo retains much of its original natural charm because it is situated in the Conero  park where building speculation has been restricted. In keeping with this, ten hotels in the area have been designated ecologically-correct and carry  the ‘Legambiente’ logo. Blue flags also mark beaches where the water is clean and pristine.

South of Portonovo through wheat fields studded with olive trees is Sirolo, a small elegant jewel of a town. Its tree-lined piazza is perched high above the sea and the surrounding beaches are stunning. In summer, many people come here to visit the ‘Due Sorelle’ (Two Sisters), the ‘Grotta Urbani’and the ‘Teatro alla Cave’. 

Further south again is Numana, a more commercial center steeped in history with longer wider beaches. Numana was an important ancient Greek port and later became a Roman colony – artifacts from the 7th century BC are displayed in the local museum.

There is much to see and do in the area apart from lazing in the sun and swimming in the glorious water. The whole region of Le Marche is relatively unknown to Australians and is well worth discovering. Its green undulating hills, medieval hilltop villages, art galleries and museums, national parks, limestone grottoes, stunning coastline, seafood, pasta and wine give Tuscany a good run for its euros.

The Riviera del Conero is 13 km south of Ancona along autostrada A14, though you will find the coast road more picturesque. You can fly to Ancona from Rome and hire a car from Ancona airport.

For more information: http://en.conero.it/

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