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Travels with BebeExploring the new Dog-mocracy of Washington DCBy Stephen G. HendersonTeeth baring. Territory marking. Chain yanking. In the dog-eat-dog world of American politics, these are all required job skills for our nation’s elected officials. Yet, lately, there’s more fur flying than usual in Washington DC. At the official White House website (www.whitehouse.gov), Spotty, Laura Bush’s Springer Spaniel gives a pun-filled tour of where he lives. And when Legally Blonde 2 opens at movie theaters nationwide on July 2, what’s the top priority for congressional aide Elle Woods (Reese Witherspoon) and her beloved Chihuahua, Bruiser? Why, passing a bill that prevent testing on animals, of course! This premise may sound comical, but with an estimated 68,000,000 dogs in the United States (or, a dog in 1 of 4 households), their owners represent a powerful block of votes to be courted. They’re already being wooed by the Travel Industry Association of America. According to a 2002 survey conducted by this organization, more than 14 percent of American adults said they traveled with a pet on a trip more than 50 miles from home in the last three years. As the summer’s peak travel season for families gets underway, this percentage is expected to rise. “More people are traveling with dogs than ever before,” said Robyn Peters, owner of the bimonthly newsletter Doggone, which provides its subscribers with 33,000 listings of hotels and other places that accept dogs. Now, I like a shaggy dog story as much as the next guy. But paging through a new guidebook, “The Dog Lover’s Companion to Washington D.C. and Baltimore” (Avalon), gave me paws…uh…pause. What would it be like to spend a couple days in Georgetown and Dupont Circle? Would I feel welcome in these canine-centric locales? After all, humans are people, too.
Sniffing Around Dupont Circle First, a few words about my new companion. Bebe is black and white, compactly-built, with a docked tail. She has protuberant eyes, the slightly smashed face of a pug, and erect, on-high-alert ears. She is romantic, too. If your lips are anywhere near hers, Bebe will lunge at you, slurping away, trying her best for a French kiss. That said, her name isn’t spoken a la francais (beh-BEH), but pronounced “bee-bee,” like the gunshot. This was fitting, I soon discovered, when experiencing what propulsive force Bebe’s seventeen pounds of muscle put on her leash. No sooner had she stepped from the car, then Bebe dragged me towards the Madera, a hotel near Dupont Circle that opens its doors wide to dogs. Meredith Bower, a manager at City Dogs, a nearby kennel, explained why this is a good neighborhood for such a policy. “Dupont Circle has a large gay community, and they always have dogs,” she said. “And, we have lots of young couples who treat their pets as ‘practice kids.’” Since I was treating Bebe as my “practice dog,” we felt right at home at the Madera. It has a chic, sultry ambiance that is attracting scene-makers such as George Clooney, Alec Baldwin and film director Steven Soderbergh. In my stylish room, I found a CD player, high-speed internet access, two bowls for Bebe’s food and water, and an enormous TV. This, I flipped on and turned to the Home Shopping Network, which I’d been told is Bebe’s favorite channel. Sure enough, as the screen lit up with Adrien Arpel hawking her women’s skin cream, Bebe leaped onto a settee at the end of the King-sized bed and arranged her front legs daintily beneath her chin. Boston Terriers are one of America’s few indigenous dog breeds, and they were developed to kill rats along harbor wharves. Seeing Bebe engrossed by Arpel’s soliloquy to “under-eye concealer,” I had to laugh at her evolution from fearsome hunter to couch potato. Who knows? Perhaps in the future, pups will have their own TV shows, and Nielsen will monitor doggie demographics. I clicked the remote, and Bebe’s head snapped about. “Come on, girl,” I soothed. “We’re going for a walk.” Logan Circle is a popular late afternoon rendezvous spot for the four-legged set. Since this amble was to provide Bebe with a pleasant setting for her evening’s “business,” I thought it appropriate to walk along ‘P’ Street. (If she got the joke, Bebe didn’t let on.) Enroute, we passed a collection of fantastic 19th century homes, the Carnegie Museum of Science and The Studio Theatre. Having a dog in tow exonerated me from the traveler’s guilt I usually feel if I don’t visit all such cultural centers. I wanted to, truly I did, but public health codes forbade me from entering with Bebe. Sigh! After Logan Circle -- which was lively with beagles, Labradors, and miniature collies, not to mention ringed by extraordinarily well-preserved Victorian architecture – Bebe and I headed north on 14th Street. This section of town is rapidly being gentrified by young professionals and is a compelling mix of drug rehabilitation clinics, gritty junk shops, sleek art galleries and home design stores such as Vastu. This, owner Eric Kole told me, was an “ancient Sanskrit word that means ‘the art of placement.’” I imagined Bebe artfully placing her muddy fur on one of the many beige sofas on display. Not to worry, Kole said. “This is a dog-friendly environment.” His sangfroid amused me. If this were my store (and my beige sofas), I wouldn’t let Bebe anywhere near. But hey, since arriving in Washington, I’d relinquished my role as Alpha dog. It’s Dog Meet Dog After dawdling for a few more minutes along U street between 15th and 16th, where there’s an array of funky antique shops and vintage clothing stores, we headed over to DoggieStyle Bakery & Boutique on 18th Street. Sold here are jowl watering treats ($3.50 a ½ lb) such as Peanut Butter Bunny Bites and Mutt Breath Mints, all homemade. “Small Washington apartments are perfect for large scale baking,” owner Kristy Smith suggested with a wry smile. If Dupont Circle has a social club, DoggieStyle may well be it. Beauties and beasts mingle here, quite untethered. I heard much talk about the upcoming Bark Ball, a June 28 fund-raiser hosted by the Washington Humane Society at the Omni Shoreham Hotel. A thousand humans and half again as many dogs are expected. Everyone is requested to dress formally, which explained why Smith offered such a selection of miniature tuxedos and ball gowns. How would Bebe look in that white satin dress; was an Empire waist right for her figure? Bebe seemed to have a different fashion statement in mind. She was staring at puppy-sized T-shirt on which the words “Diva Dog” were printed in rhinestones. As we left DoggieStyle, I noted a group of distinctive black and white photographs hanging on the wall, taken by a dog portraitist named Sandra Kudrecki. She shoots in a just-face-the-camera-and-growl style not unlike what Richard Avedon uses for humans. I made a mental note to give Kudrecki a call. Headed back to the hotel, we walked along New Hampshire Street, taking in the impressive facades of embassies from far-flung places: Botswana, Namibia, Slovenia and the Republic of Belauris. Bebe strained at her leash before each. Clearly, she was greedy to enroll in the “Pup-Grade Miles” program Virgin Airways recently announced for its frequent flying dogs Later that evening, we dined at Firefly. Bebe sat by my feet on a terrace outside the restaurant, watching passersby on the sidewalk, while I tucked into my crispy fried oysters with chipotle tartar sauce, and cumin crusted mahi-mahi. This fare was tasty, if a bit spicy for Bebe. She made do with the Barkin’ Beefy Bits I’d bought at Doggie Style. Our first day of touring must have tired her out. Back in the room, Bebe lay down on her back, limbs straight up in the air like antennae, and fell fast asleep. Like dog owners do, every day, all around the world, I decided Bebe was the most adorable animal ever in all of recorded history. Sinking our Teeth into Georgetown
Her townhouse on P Street in Georgetown is a tranquil spot, despite the front door bell constantly ringing and a steady arrival of clientele. Hot on Bebe’s heels were Bitsy, a Yorkshire Terrier; Tiffany, a toy poodle, and Leo, a Bichon Frise. The dogs intertwined, their leashes like ribbons on a Maypole. They sniffed one another in naughty places, a pastime that brought an indulgent smile to Chichie. “They’re just downloading messages,” she said. With this, she scooped Bebe up into her arms, and carried her upstairs to a sunny room. In the corner, stood a large birdcage that contained a chattering African gray parrot named Fabrice. As Chichie bathed Bebe in a high tub, Bebe licked her face passionately. “Everybody thinks you just wash the fur,” Chichie said, “but there’s more to it than that. I give my dogs a massage.” After the grooming was finished, Chichie admired her handiwork. “Bebe shines like new money, don’t she?” she asked. “Who cares?” snapped Fabrice. I was feeling a little peckish myself, so we headed to Furin’s, a famed local institution on M Street, for a quick lunch. A waiter helpfully placed a bowl of water at my feet, and Bebe lapped at it noisily, while I faced the challenge of deciding between 30 different types of salad. Eventually, I sought the advice of Christian Furin, a hulkingly muscled young man, with massive biceps popping from his T-shirt, and shoulders nearly as wide as he is tall. Given his physique, it was surprisingly to hear Furin yammer on about his two teacup poodles, Ginger and Roxy. “I guess they’re not a very macho dog,” he admitted. I guessed not. After eating every bit of our curried tuna with apples, Bebe and I walked across the street to check in at the Four Seasons Hotel. Bebe’s shiny new beauty caused Joelle Newman, the hotel desk clerk, to literally fall on her knees. “I’ve been dying to get a Boston Terrier forever!” she crooned as she nuzzled Bebe’s ears. “I’ll name him Toby, but say Tobias when I’m mad.” Bebe and I had nothing to be angry about in our suite, which was large and cozily furnished. There was a cushy dog bed in the corner and, alongside this, a dish and an unopened bottle of cold Evian. (Full disclosure: I drank this, and gave the dog tap water.) I’d planned to take a stroll over to the Franklin Delano Roosevelt Monument, to show Bebe where F.D.R.’s Scottie named Fala is immortalized in bronze. It was raining, though, so we opted to go shopping along “M” Street, where nearby the Four Seasons is a group of stores that cater to clients with dogs. Several have dog mascots of their own. Binky, a Shih Tzu, welcomes guests into AmericanStudio+, which sells home accessories by designers such as Philippe Starck and Alessi. “People who have dogs have a certain sensibility,” said salesperson Glenna Johnson. “If someone owns a dog, you know they are cool.” Bebe and I were still blushing over this flattery, as we entered Frank Milwee Antiques. We found an extraordinary collection of corkscrews from the 1920’s and 30’s shaped like schnauzers, dachshunds, and bulldogs, all of which -- whether anatomically correct or not -- sported curlicue tails suitable for sinking into a Merlot’s cork. At $125, I was ready to pop for one, but Bebe was pulling in a different direction. Milwee, you see, had laid several silver bowls on the floor. “Silver has the happy characteristic of fighting the growth of bacteria, so it’s self-sterilizing,” he explained. “It actually is a much better material for a dog dish then plastic.” Further up the street, Dallas, a purebred Maltese, and a Yorkie and Silky mix named Max blocked the entrance to Vera Mann’s boutique. Until recently an interior decorator in Los Angeles, Mann said that most of her clients are celebrities who stay at the Four Seasons such as Rod Stewart and Bo Derek. “Have you tried ‘Bless the Beast?’” she asked, referring to Derek’s posh line of dog shampoos and conditioners. About to brag that Bebe was actually partial to Adrien Arpel, I found myself eyeing a gilded console and mirror set ($30,000) which had once belonged to the French actor Maurice Chevalier. Mann rolled her eyes in an oo-la-la way. “A lovely man. Maurice was a poodle person.” This, apparently, encapsulated Chevalier’s character, for she said no more. Bebe and I bid her adieu and went to see Woode Neilsen, who owns The Pet Gallery, Georgetown’s most elegant pet shop. Neilsen is a cheerfully intense man with a tall nimbus of white hair that bares a startling resemblance to the fur of Jerry Lee, his English Sheep dog. “We specialize in one-of-a-kind things,” he said. This proved to be a breathtaking understatement, as Neilsen was soon gossiping about a female customer from Baltimore who’d recently dropped several thousand dollars on a dog collar encrusted with pictures of Elvis, and a matching belt for herself. Need a doggie chaise covered in Toile fabric ($800)? A collar studded with Swarovksi crystals ($125)? A combination scratch post and cat bed shaped like a tiny player piano that actually plays “Memories” from the musical Cats ($975)? If so, a visit to the Pet Gallery is probably in your future. While Bebe tried on garment after garment – cashmere! Even faux fur! -- a small crowd of fans gathered around her. Soon, she was wearing a pair of Doggles ($55) to affect anonymity. Diva Dog, indeed. Rounding out our visit to Washington, we arrived at Sandra Kudrecki’s studio, a short cab ride away from Georgetown. As Bebe sat on a backdrop of white seamless paper under hot lights, I squeezed a toy that made her ears stand up in a photogenic manner. Did Naomi Campbell require such ministrations, I wondered? While she clicked away with a Bronica large-format camera, Kudrecki was droll about the journey she’d taken as a photographer from shooting fashion and fine art in New York, to suburban pooches in Alexandria, Virginia. “Dogs always look cute, they never look fat, and when they get the prints, they’re never disappointed because they don’t look like Richard Gere,” she said. I’ve chucked over this frequently since. In fact, to sum up my experience of traveling with Bebe, I can’t think of anything better than this tale that wagged the dog. When You GoGetting There: The easiest way to get to Washington, DC, is to drive. If you have a dog small enough to fit in a traveling case, however, you can also take Amtrak from Baltimore to Washington’s Union Station. Check prices at www.amtrak.com Lodging: Consult the newsletter Doggone ($25 per year, 888-364-8728, www.doggonefun.com) for Washington DC hotels that accept dogs. Hotel Madera – 1310 New Hampshire Avenue NW. 202-296-7600 Sleek and sexy, it has the feel of a cosmopolitan pied-a-terre. Dogs are welcome at an evening wine hour. Rooms start at $145. Four Seasons Hotel – 2800 Pennsylvania Avenue NW (between M Street NW and Rock Creek & Potomac Parkway NW) 202-342-0444. www.fourseasons.com At the edge of Georgetown, enjoy Old World comfort and up-to-the-moment amenities. Rooms start at $335. Dining:Firefly – 1310 New Hampshire Avenue NW, 202-861-1310. American Bistro and Bar, with candlelit lanterns hanging from a huge tree at room’s center. You glow, girl! Entrees start at $14. Furin’s – 2805 M Street NW, 202-965-1000. Casual dining at its freshest. Sandwiches and salads galore, bakery on premises. Entrees start at $5.95. Paolo’s – 1303 Wisconsin Avenue NW, 202-333-7353 Robust menu of steaks, fish and grilled chicken. Sit outside and watch street life go by on Wisconsin Avenue. Entrees start at $14.95 Other Activities:16th Annual Bark Ball – Support the Washington Humane Society’s work with homeless, lost and abused animals. Saturday, June 28, the Omni Shoreham Hotel, 2500 Calvert Street NW. To order tickets or for more information, visit www.barkball.com, or call 202-332-3556, ext. 2. Dupont Circle – This area north of the White House is filled with grand mansions, embassies, art galleries, bars, restaurants and bookstores. Feel lazy? Then sit at the Francis Dupont Memorial Fountain’s edge and drink in the scene. Vastu – 1829 14th Street NW, 202-234-8344 High style for the home in neutral shades of white, beige and brown. Millennium – 1528 U Street NW, 202-483-1218 Furniture and Funk from the 1950’s, 60’s and 70’s. Doggie Style – 1825 18th Street NW, 202-667-0595 Home Made puppy treats by the ½ pound! Toys and “canine couture” as well. Georgetown – With cobblestone streets and charming townhouses, there’s an unhurried 18th century atmosphere the moment one leaves the main streets. Strike out in any direction, and you won’t be disappointed. Dumbarton Oaks – 1703 32nd Street NW, 202-339-6401. www.doaks.org The McKim, Mead and White 1920’s house is a beauty; the grounds, designed by Beatrix Jones Farrand, are a fantasy. Formal gardens give way to more casual landscapes beyond. Chichie’s Canine Design and Grooming Spa – 2614 P Street NW 202-333-3575 For over 35 years, where Georgetown’s most prestigious pooches are pampered. Prices start at $75 for small dogs, and $100 for larger breeds. Frank Milwee Antiques – 2912 M Street NW 202-333-4811 Treasures, trinkets and other curiosities – many made from silver. Vera Mann Antiques – 2914 M Street NW, 202-333-3807 Fine European Antiques – almost everything’s gilded, including the lilly. AmericanStudio+ -- 2906 M Street NW, 202-965-3273 “Jewelry for the Home” in the form of vases, dishes, plates and cutlery. Georgetown Pet Gallery – 3204 O Street NW, 202-333-3174 The finest in pet wear and specialty items…and how! Sandra Kudrecki – http://homepage.mac.com/kudrecki 202-255-2858 Black and white photography, 2 rolls of film shot, 2 prints 8’ X 8’, for $150. For More Reading: The Dog Lover’s Companion to Washington D.C. and Baltimore (Avalon Travel, 2003) or Travels with Charley, by John Steinbeck, a wistful look at 1960’s America, seen through the eyes of a French Poodle. An Ideal Day7:00 a.m. Feel that tongue on your cheek? No, it’s not your amorous spouse. It’s Rover! 7:15 a.m. Grab coffee to go in the Four Seasons lobby, and walk Rover along the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, directly behind the hotel. Federal-style townhouses line its banks for nearly two miles. 10:00 a.m. Drop Rover off at Chichie’s and tour Dumbarton Oaks. 12:00 noon Have lunch at Furin’s. Good luck choosing between all the yummy salads. 1:00 – 4:30 p.m. Show off your beautified beast by walking through Georgetown, Dupont Circle, and along the Washington Mall. Or, go shopping on M Street. 5:00 p.m. Stop by DoggieStyle, and see if Kristy Smith has arranged a “Yappy Hour” for dog owners at a nearby bar. 8:00 p.m. Have dinner at Paolo’s. Keep an eye out for the nearby Georgetown University football team’s bulldog mascot who’s frequently walked along Wisconsin Avenue. 10:00 p.m. Get an ice cream cone at Thomas Sweet, and walk back to the hotel. 11:00 p.m. Hit the sack, you’ve had a rrrrrufff day. |
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TM
Curious, I called
a friend and asked if I could borrow his Boston Terrier, a four-year-old
named Bebe, for the weekend. 
Next morning, we
both wanted to look our best for our day’s outing in Georgetown. I shaved,
flossed and gelled with special care. And Bebe? I took her to see ChiChie
Tascoe, Washington DC’s most prestigious dog groomer. No slouch in
horse-trading either, ChiChie (as she prefers to be called), works both
sides of the Senate aisle, as she grooms, among many others, the dogs of
both Elizabeth Dole and Ted Kennedy. Joan Rivers is also a fan.