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Schmoozing With The Mud Skippers In Melaka

By Jane Cassie

“Coming up on your right, ladies and gentleman, you’ll see Sean Penn snuggled up to Jennifer Lopez, and basking to your left, is the well known Madonna.”

Although it may sound like we’re guests to a Hollywood ho-down or fortunate ticket takers to the prestigious Oscars, we’re, in fact, no where near the state of California USA. Instead, our group of eighteen touring Canadians is half way around the globe, cruising along a muddy tributary that bisects the town of Melaka, on the west coast of Malaysia. And leading our excursion… is a very comical and imaginative tour guide.

For thirty-six years Bernd Goodtink has operated Paramiswara Tours and has integrated his sense of humor with some of Melaka’s historical venues. During this laid-back river cruise, we ogle over the six foot long lung fish lizards that clamor over the waterway’s mucky shoreline. While flaunting scaly hides and thirty-two razor sharp teeth, they share no resemblance whatsoever with the well-known celebrities, but each one bares an adopted famous name and is part of Bernd’s first class act. 

We drift slowly in the Panama-style cruiser and pass by jerry built shacks that swagger along the boggy banks like tired old tin men. Their tarnished crowns are topped by sheets of corrugated aluminum and ramshackle torsos are supported by toothpick thin stilts. Mudskipper fish flip flop at their grimy front door stoops and the sixty-pound slimy lizards slither beneath.

Smiling women veer out over sun-splashed verandahs, appearing oblivious to the creatures that crawl below, and their curious wide-eyed children gaze inquisitively as we float by. Although the strands of airing laundry indicate occupancy in others, many of the humble hovels are vacated, waiting patiently for new face-lifts. “Over the next few years, the government plans to invest mega ringgits to transform this muddy canal into a replicated scene out of the 1700s,” Goodtink shares over the loud speaker. “It’ll be like a vision right out of Venice.” We are informed that authentic materials, such as hundred year old bricks, will be imported for fabrication, primitive huts will be transformed into pastel abodes to imbibe a Mediterranean feel, and gallant gondoliers will paddle past the historical attractions that have already stood rooted for centuries.

Although checking out these heritage hot spots are also do-able on foot, my travel companion daughter and I had literally wheeled by them earlier in the day, on a person-powered trishaw.  With Aman at the helm, we had cuddled on the floral tricycle shrine without an inch to spare. If the tight squeeze and flowery fan fare didn’t catch the eye of every passerby, tunes from the top forty that blared out from our pedal pushing machine certainly did. While jostling along sliver-thin roads that weave around the quaint township, we said a silent prayer for ongoing strength in Aman’s quads, and hummed along with the Back Street Boys.

We tootled through the town square where well preserved remnants imbibe the glorious past and understood why this destination has been officially declared the historical city of Malaysia. Period pieces like The Stadthuys, which was initially the residence of the Dutch and Deputy Governors, stands as proudly as it did when first erected in 1650. Its adjacent neighbour, Christ Church that came along a century later, still boasts original handmade pews and a tiled tale of the Last Supper.  And A' Famosa, a fortress that was built by the Portuguese in the early 1500’s holds the record at being the granddaddy hallmark of them all. Although the structure sustained severe damage during the Dutch Invasion, in 1808 a gent by the name of Sir Stamford Raffles saved the heritage remains that are still being toured today.

From Moorish style mosques and stately mausoleums to ornately decked out temples and tired looking tombstones, Aman pedaled and pumped merrily through Melaka while we reveled in the relics and relaxed.

A cobblestone bridge links the city’s main square to Chinatown and the world class alley of antiques, known as Jonker Walk. It also spans the muddy Melaka River where Bernd Goodtink’s comical river tour ride is preparing to wind down.

“Melaka attracts visitors worldwide,” Goodtink shares, “and I want to send you off with a goodbye that you are all accustomed to.” Broad-leafed jet fruit and flourishing rubber trees provide a verdant canopy as we coast towards the home berth. And before disembarking, the cruising comedian bids a farewell to just about every nationality, using his own rendition. “To the French Aurevoir. To the Spanish, adios. To the Britts, ya hoo. To the Texans, ya’ll come back now, ya hear. And to all of you friendly Canadians, hope to see you later, eh!

Getting There:
Daily flights are provided out of Los Angeles (Vancouver to Los Angeles via Air Canada or HMY) If a Malaysian Airlines ticket is purchased from Vancouver, the flight from Vancouver-Los Angeles is covered.

Malaysian Airlines is well recognized for its superlative service, cuisine and hospitality. (1-800-552-9264) www.malaysiaairlines.com.my/

Where To Stay:
Renaissance Melaka
Jalan Bendahara
75100 Melaka, Malaysia
Jalan Bendahara
75100 Melaka
Tel: +606-284 8888
Fax: +606-283 5351
Website and reservations: http://www.malacca.ws/renaissance/

Things to Do:
For more attractions, check out these web sites:
Tourism Malaysia: http://tourism.gov.my
http://www.visitmalaysia.com

Tourism Malaysia: Phone (604) 689-8899 (Toll Free: 1-800-689-6872); Fax: (604) 689-8804

Jane and Brent Cassie freelance for a number of publications

Jane is president of BC Association Of Travel Writers http://www.bctravelwriters.com and can be contacted at janecassie@telus.net or through their web site at www.janecassie.com

IMAGES BY JANE CASSIE

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