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The Middle of Everything
A Weekend At Copley Square, Boston
Of course there’s a center to the universe – just ask
any Bostonian, they’ll be proud to tell you that the universe revolves
around Boston – the “Hub” of the universe. And while the Boston Common is
more famous, the center of Boston is Copley Square. It’s where all the
action is – Shoppers flock to Newbury, Boylston is the place for Boston
nightlife, the Prudential Center boasts of both a shopping center and the
tallest office building in Boston – even the churches seem to cluster around
Copley Square.
My wife and I had the pleasure of being the guests of
the Charlesmark Hotel, right in the middle of the action. It is so close to
the center of the action, in fact, that the finish line for the Boston
Marathon is right outside the Charlesmark’s front door. This is a
European-style “boutique” hotel whose 33 rooms are tucked into an 1886
Boston brownstone whose front windows offer a view of the Boston public
library and, to one side, Copley Square.
The original façade of the brownstone was stripped away
years ago, when the building’s owners wanted a modern feel to a clothing
shop on the main level. That led to the present hotel’s modern décor, a
departure from Boston’s traditionally decorated hotels. Designer Dennis
Duffy describes the interior decoration as “classic modernism with a
minimalist flair”.
The rooms feature light woods, spare décor, and
built-in cabinets – not the kind of place for people who live for the
froufrou of quilts and doilies, but just right for people who love
simplicity and convenience. Of course there are nice touches of elegance,
like the Italian tile in the bathrooms and the European lighting fixtures,
and the built-in speakers for each room’s music system.
The hallways feature artwork selected by curator Aimee
Samuelson. She’s the “Curator” because each hallway is its own art gallery,
with the work of local artists available for purchase in a constantly
rotating selection.
In the second-floor lobby, a huge antique clock-face
sits over the working gas fireplace. The hands are frozen in time, echoing
the timelessness of the hotel, either as a retreat from the rush and jostle
of Boston, or perhaps a place where the energy of a young spirit has been
captured in its décor.
Our trip to Boston was to be a romantic getaway, so our
host, Mark Hagopian, did his best make our visit memorable with flowers,
chocolates and wine. One of the things that the staff of Charlesmark did
exceptionally well was to provide personal service. For example, they
looked up parking regulations for us and let us know while we were out
exploring.
The service carried over into nice touches, like
providing a wireless internet connection for my laptop computer, or having
bagels and fruit in the lobby all day long. They even put lollipops in the
bathroom toothbrush holder.
We made our own romance by exploring Boston on foot,
admiring architecture, and “people-watching”. Exploring Boston should be
done on foot – even though the Subway entrance is just 50 feet from the
hotel’s front door. Boston’s Theater District is about the limit to most
people’s comfortable walking distance, but the stroll is pleasant enough.
We made the walk three times over the weekend, twice to take advantage of
the parking garage under Boston Common and once to dine at McCormick &
Schmick's seafood restaurant.
Dining at McCormick and Schmick’s was wonderfully
romantic – a dinner where a quick kiss between courses of perfectly prepared
seafood went unseen behind the thick curtains of the cozy “snug”, and no one
could overhear our whispers and giggles as we shared a chocolate berry
basket dessert.
Of course the food at McCormick and Schmick’s is the
real reason that people go there. We had clams casino where the flavor and
texture of the clams still came through from under the crispy broiled
topping of cheeses and minced vegetables. And for the first time, I had
salmon that wasn’t overcooked – juicy and meaty instead of dry and flakey.
McCormick and Schmick’s serves Northwestern seafood,
like you’d expect from restaurants that enjoy a view of the Washington
state’s Cascade Range. The restaurant’s roots might come from Washington,
but their seafood comes fresh from local waters and the local chef has
considerable input into the menu and recipes. That makes the restaurant a
Boston seafood restaurant, one where even the locals rave about their clam
chowder.
You might also consider dining at “The Top Of The Hub”
located at the top of the Prudential Building, just a stone’s throw away
from the Charlesmark, renowned as one of the most romantic restaurants in
the world, with its sweeping views of Boston and its fine cuisine. It’s so
romantic, that their proprietors claim that if you gathered together every
couple who got engaged in the restaurant, they’d be able to fill the entire
52-floor Prudential Building with happy couples. [See the article in
TravelLady on Top of the Hub by Fran Folsom
http://travellady.com/Issues/November03/Top%20of%20the%20Hub-Boston.htm
]
For daytime activities, consider a ride on the Boston
Ducks, where you can see Boston by both land and by sea (well… road and
river…). Take in the art galleries and museums, or treat yourself to a day
of pampering at a spa.
We did. And when we were done, we were still just a
stroll away from a comfortable bed. Which, perhaps, is the most important
part of staying at the Charlesmark. It’s in the middle of everything.
You can find the Charlesmark Hotel at 655 Boylston
Street, Boston MA 02116. Phone them at 617-247-1212. Email them at
charlesmarkhotel@aol.com
or visit their website at
www.thecharlesmark.com .
Photo Credit:
Charlesmark Hotel photos by Paul Pence
Snug photo courtesy of McCormick and Schmick’s
Bio:
Paul Pence is a freelance writer who travels to romantic locations around
the world with his new wife, Linda Eagleson.
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