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Best of Basel

By Madelyn Miller, the TravelLady

This is a city that has everything going for it. Culture, culinary experiences, shopping and a gorgeous setting. It is the only capital city that I can think of that offers all the sophistication of world-class city without most of the problems.

Basel has a vibrant energy and a picture perfect location on the Rhine River. This could be a honeymoon setting just as happily as a convenient conference destination. Trams make in city transportation cheap and easy and help eliminate much pollution. The sky is blue, the air is fresh, and life is good.

The best way to get to know Basel is to start in the Old Town to learn about the historical perspective that has shaped its character.

Art and Architecture

 

The townscape of modern Basel is stamped by the mark of renowned international and Swiss architects. As an exciting contrast to the ancient buildings of the historical Old Town, modern buildings round off the picture of a cosmopolitan metropolis.

When it comes to architecture, Basel has a good deal to offer, in particular the buildings of Herzog & de Meuron, Morger & Degelo or Diener & Diener, which attract worldwide attention.

The urban center lies gracefully along the Rhine, no building so tall as to block another’s view of the Cathedral’s twin spires. Two blocks from the heart of the busy shopping district, you can walk through medieval residential streets. This balance of new and old, sophisticated and simple is seen throughout the city and seems to work with great success.

Art is as much a part of the city as the Rhine river. A lot of outstanding works of art by international artists set their mark upon Basel’s public spaces and decoratge its streets and squares.  Some examples are Jean Tinguely’s “Fasnacht (carnival) Fountain,” Borofsky’s “Hammering Man” and Serra’s “Intersection”

Where to Eat

Restaurant susu’s
Gerbergasse 73
CH-4001 Basel
Tel +41 (0)61 261 67 80
Internet www.susus.ch
Cuisine asian-mediterranean
This restaurant has opened in 2004 and has a very nice indoor design. It also offers a lounge, a bar and a club and is popular among the citizens of Basel. I tried a pumpkin trio which included a creamy pumpkin soup, a fresh grated pumpkin and mushroom salad with an orange pumpkin dressing and a pumpkin cream that I spread on some crusty bread. (17 SF).

I had a nice stir-fry sweet and sour chicken and peppers with glass noodles( 23 SF), but when I saw the sampler platter for two go by, I wished I had ordered that as my entrée. Just another good reason to go back

I always enjoy eating a museum restaurants—because you get a double dose of culture and cuisine. Lunch at the museum restaurant Chez Jeannot which has its wall covered with art from the famous swiss painter and sculptor Jean Tinguely is delightful.

Restaurant « Chez Jeannot »
Paul Sacher-Anlage 1
CH-4058 Basel
Tel +41 (0)61 688 94 58
Fax +41 (0)61 688 94 69
Internet www.tinguely.ch/restaurant
E-Mail restaurant@tinguely.ch

Start Your Day

           

You might want to start your day at the fruit & vegetable market on the Market Square in front of the City Hall. The fruit and vegetable market takes place on a daily basis except Sundays. Hob knob with the locals and taste some of the fresh honey and pasta sauces among other offerings. You can take home the jellies and sauces, you will only be able to take pictures of the fabulous flowers to record the beautiful memories.

Best Museums

The number of museums per capita is a reflection of Basel’s priority. With a population of 200,000, the city has more than 30 museums.

If you plan on seeing multiple museums (and you should) be sure to get the Basel Museum Pass available from the main museums and Basel Tourisme.

Kunstmuseum (Museum of Fine Arts). The emphasis of the Kunstmuseum Basel is on Upper Rhenish and Flemish paintings and drawings from 1400 to 1600 and on 19th and 20th century art. The museum has the world’s largest collection of works by the Holbein family. The museum closes at 5 p.m.

Kunstmuseum
St. Alban-Graben 16
CH-4002 Basel
Tel +41 (0)61 206 62 62
Internet www.kunstmuseumbasel.ch
E-Mail pressoffice@kunstmuseumbasel.ch
Current special exhibition: De Kooning – Paintings 1960–1980

Fondation Beyeler

 

It is easy to get to Fondation Beyeler by tram no 6 from “Marktplatz” (direction Riehen Grenze). Get off at the station “Fondation Beyeler”. Duration: 20 minutes

Visit the Fondation Beyeler. Around 200 works of the Classic Modernism document the very personal view of Hildy and Ernst Beyeler on 20th century art (among others Monet, Cézanne, van Gogh, Picasso and Warhol).

There is a special exhibition on display until November 26 on “René Margritte“.

Fondation Beyeler   
Baselstrasse 101
CH-4125 Riehen / Basel
Tel: +41 (0)61 645 97 00
Fax : +41 (0)61 645 97 19
Internet : www.beyeler.com
E-Mail : fondation@beyeler.com

Museum Jean Tinguely Basel

     

Museum Tinguely. It is devoted to the life and work of the major Swiss iron sculptor Jean Tinguely (1925-1991). The museum building was designed by the Ticino architect Mario Botta. The permanent exhibition shows animated mechanical sculptures from all periods of Tinguely’s career.

The whimsical art by this Swiss sculptor will delight children of any age. A lovely place to eat or bring a picnic lunch to eat on the lawn or by the water’s edge.

Museum Jean Tinguely Basel
take bus no. 31 until the stop “Tinguely Museum”.
Paul Sacher-Anlage 1
CH-4002 Basel
Tel +41 (0)61 681 93 20
Fax +41 (0)61 681 93 21
Internet www.tinguely.ch
E-Mail info@tinguely.ch

Must See

  • the impressive Roamnesque-Gothic cathedral Munster. Munsterplatz.

  • Rathaus (townhall) on Marktplatz dominates the market square

  • Dreilandereck (Three Countries Corner) which juts out into the Rhine, is one of Basel’s more unusual sites. If you walk around a pylon marking the spot, in just a few steps you can cross from Switzerland into Germany and then into France—and you don’t even need a passport.

Best Taste of Basel

Basel even has its own signature cookie—a slightly crunchy gingerbread like treat. It’s not often that I go somewhere and taste something I have never tried before.
Laeckerli Huus
Gerbergasse 57
4001 Basel
www.laeckerli-huus.ch .

The delicious selection of attractively arranged packages makes it hard to reach a decision, but they will of course be pleased to take it as a compliment. They will also probably offer you a taste of this local treat. It is a great gift to bring home since the shelf-life is almost as long as a fruitcake.

There is a branch of Laeckerli in the lobby of the Merian Spitz Hotel, and you will find them offered on the breakfast buffet.

Best Breads

 

If bread is the staff of life, you can live well in Basel. The breads are so beautiful, I found myself taking pictures of them. One of the best is Brothuus Zoller. My favorite bread is a grainy roll with toasted pumpkin seeds on top. You can find an outlet for their bread in the market.

Rosentalstrasse 68
Filliale Hutgasse 4
Markstand am Markplatz

Coffee or Tea

They indulge in the German tradition of “kaffe and kuchen” in the late afternoon. But Baselers prefer  tiny sweet gems, two or three to a saucer, instead of large slices of creamy cake. Or they might go for a delicate Chinese tea.

Confiserie & Tea Room Schiesser
Confiserie Aebischer
061 261 3070

Mercedes Caffe
Just try to figure out how they got the Mercedes inside this historic building. Then have another drink.
Schneidergasse 28, 4051 Basel
061 262 20 00
l.kestenholz@automfamile.com
www.autofamilie.com

Best Sweet Tooth Experience

Sweet Basel, Schnabelgasse 4
Basel
www.sweetbasel.ch
The most beautiful handmade candies in the whole city! They look like Venetian glass and are so beautifully displaced that you might think it is a jewelry store when you first peek in the windows. They also offer tastes of their most popular flavors. There is a cute box of candies with the Swiss Flag that make a great gift.

Shopping Tips

Most stores are open from Mon-Wed from 9am to 6.30pm, on Thur-Fri from 9am to 8 pm. Stores close at 6pm on Saturday.

    

Two supermarkets (Migros and Coop) and a pharmacy at the Swiss railway station (Banhof SBB) are open daily until 10pm.

On Saturday there is a wonderful flea market in the park.  My favorite table promoted recycling by having a pile of things marked “Gratis.”

 

MADELYN’S FAVORITE STORES

The look of Swiss sophistication is seen throughout Basel. I loved window shopping in the many boutiques. I tend to look for smart accessories because they are smaller, and easier to bring home than many souvenirs

Rosen ‘s
I found this delightful store my first day in Switzerland when I was in Zurich. I resisted a wonderful scarf. So I was so happy to find it again on my last stop in Switzerland. Basel seems to have the best of Switzerland, all in an easy to shop, easy to find area.
Grunfahlgrasse  8 (beim Rumelinsplatz)
41 0 61 262 01 68
www.rosens-shop.ch
info@rosens-shop.ch.

Bead Box
I saw a wonderful necklace I had to have. It cost 79 SF. The helpful shopgirl patiently showed me how to make it myself for less than 30 SF (including her labor to attach the silver clasp). There are lots of unique African beads plus necklaces for inspiration or purchase.
Schnabelgasse 4     b. Romelinsplatz
4051 Basel
061 261 57 70
www.beadbox.ch

Gelatine
Beautiful one of a kind jewelry. Much of it from France.
Spalenberg 40a
4051 Basel
061 263 15 55

Pilzli
One of a kind jewelry and Oriental artifacts. Look much more expensive than they are.
Also some textiles and decorative items.

Elisabethenstrasse 20
Ch-4051
Tel 061-272-9440
Fax 061 272 1515

Ethno Art
Schnabelgasse1
Ch 4051
061 361 68 57
Ethno-art@a2000.ch

BEST STREET FOOD
Roasted chestnuts 

 

Where to Stay

Hotel Merian am Rhein****
Rheingasse 2
CH-4005 Basel
Tel +41 (0)61 685 11 11
Fax +41 (0)61 685 11 12
Internet www.hotel-merian.ch
E-Mail kontakt@hotel-merian.ch
4-star-hotel at the bank of the River Rhine and close to the Old Town

Ask for a room with a river view. I got gorgeous pictures from my small patio.
There is a highly rated seafood restaurant, Café Spitz, inside the hotel.
The hotel offers each guest a “Mobility Ticker” which allows you to use public transportation free of charge.

Part of the Best Western chain, this hotel has nice rooms with very well thought our space usage. I found plenty of surfaces and outlets for charging my camera, computer and such.

Best Bargains in Basel

In a town that seems to have more museums per capita than anywhere else in the world, a museum pass seems like a very sensible purchase. The Basel card offers even more freebies and discounts

BaselCard

– many reductions - lots for free!

With the BaselCard you benefit from more than 80 offers! The advantages for you at a glance:
- Free admission to 26 museums
- Reduction on special exhibitions
- Free admission to Basel Zoo
- Free guided tours of the town
- Free ferry rides
- Reductions on theatre and musical tickets
- Reductions for concerts and discotheques
- Reductions at 26 restaurants in Basel
- Reductions in various shops in Basel
- Reductions on boat trips and taxi fares

Price
Price base in Swiss francs, conversion rate 1.54, euro prices according to the current rate.

BaselCard 24 hours      = CHF 20.00 / € 13.00
BaselCard 48 hours      = CHF 27.00 / € 17.50
BaselCard 72 hours      = CHF 35.00 / € 23.00

Museum Pass

With the museum pass of Upper Rhine Region you have unlimited access to all 150 museums of the Upper Rhine Region. Cross the border between Germany, France and Switzerland and discover the variety of the museums, castles, monasteries and gardens.

You can get the museum pass at the Tourist- & Hotelinformation booth of Basel Tourismus.
More information: www.museumspass.com

Price
Short-stay pass (valid on 4 individually chosen days within 1 month)      = CHF 44.00 / € 28.00
Pass for 1 year (personalized) for 1 adult and 1 child (up to 16 years)    = CHF 88.00 / € 57.00

For More Information

Basel Tourismus, Aeschenvorstadt 36, 4010 Basel
Tel. 061 268 68 68 (international: +41 61 268 68 68)

WWW.baseltourismus.ch
INFO@baseltourismus.ch

BEST WAY TO GET TO SWITZERLAND

Swiss International Air Lines, the national carrier of Switzerland serves 70 destinations including 43 in Europe and 27 in Africa, Asia, North & South America.

North American gateways include: Boston Chicago, Los Angeles, Miami, Montreal, Newark, and JFK/New York. In 2004, 9.2 million passengers flew in Swiss First, Swiss Business and Swiss Economy Class. For more information, click onto www.swiss.com <http://www.swiss.com>  or call 1-877-FLY SWISS.

BEST WAY TO GET AROUND IN SWTIZERLAND

The  Swiss Travel System is incredibly comprehensive and includes rail, lake steamers and city transportation lines. STS discount passes are as individual as your travel plans and excursion wishes. Ranging from a plain transfer ticket to flexible or consecutive travel days.  Buy any Swiss Pass and get a free Family Card for unlimited travel for kids up to 16.
Available on www.MySwitzerland.com or www.RailEurope.com

And the best way to get around just got better—
In 2006, - buy a Swiss Pass, Youth Pass or Flexi Pass and get free admission to over 400 museums in Switzerland.

- With any STS train pass, receive 10-20% discount on internet bookings on hotels (Best Western Swiss Hotels, Minotel, Sunstar Hotels and Swiss Backpacker Hotels)

-Glacier Express: new First Class panorama cars

- all public transport system entirely non-smoking.

Great Guidebooks

Fodor’s Switzerland 2005
Fodor’s Travel Publications
www.fodors.com

Frommer’s Switzerland
By Darwin Porter and Danforth Prince
Macmillan
www.frommers.com

Culture Shock! Switzerland
A guide to customs and etiquette
By Shirley Eu-Wong
Graphic Arts Center Publishing Company

All photos by Madelyn Miller
 
Madelyn Miller is a writer and web entrepreneur that contributes to www.travellady.com, www.chocolateatlas.com, www.cocktailatlas.com, www.cheeseatlas.com, www.carladynews.com, and www.todaysgooddeeds.com

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