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Cruising the Scottish SeasBy Vivien DevlinCalling all Cruise lovers!
In Scotland, we also like to offer our own national brand of luxury, intimate cruising in miniature. Hebridean Island Cruises launched their first small ship, the Hebridean Princess in 1989. She caters for a maximum of only 49 passengers tended by a crew of 38. There are 30 Staterooms all named after West Coast Scottish islands, castles and lochs. Eleven of the bedrooms are for single occupancy for which there is no extra charge which is wonderful for solo travellers. When you realise that some of the giant ocean-going ships and Caribbean cruise lines may accommodate anything up to 3,000 people or more, you can appreciate the privacy, relaxing atmosphere, gracious living and personal service on board. It is the smallest luxury cruise ship in the world.
"We were looking for a ship that
delivers a four star plus experience in terms of onboard quality, service and
cuisine. Eight ships were nominated in this category and we placed the Hebridean
Princess first, ahead of Seabourn Goddess II. Winning such a wide-ranging
category with competition from ships as diverse as Grand Princess and QE2 is a
tribute to the all round quality and originality of the Hebridean Island cruises
operation." The Hebridean Princess offers the atmosphere of a Scottish Country House party, except that it is afloat and cruises around some of the most spectacular and beautiful scenery around the Highlands and Islands of Scotland. As the ship has a relatively shallow draught, she can anchor off isolated and inaccessible islands and coastlines. Guests usually go ashore twice a day often by small boat or by beach landing craft.
These are voyages for independent
travellers who appreciate the extraordinary beauty of Scotland’s natural wild
landscape, deserted sandy beaches, lochs and craggy mountain peaks.
" I think it was one of the best holidays we've experienced - I couldn't think of a fault". Mr and Mrs Townsend-Green, England " Our Gaelic trip was one of the most enjoyable holidays ever." Peter and Liz Goodman, Australia. The Majestic Line
The Majestic Cruise line was founded by two businessmen Andy Thoms and Ken Grant from Dunoon, Scotland, who were inspired by several vacations cruising the Mediterranean in a Turkish Gulet – a converted fishing boat. As enthusiastic sailors themselves, they knew that this experience of cruising around the west coast of Scotland in a similar small boat would be ideal. Back in Scotland they sourced a fishing vessel, The Ocean Gain, built in 1975 and now out of service. The traditional high-bowed iroko and oak wood boat with a Kelvin 8 cylinder diesel engine was ideal for conversion into a modern, motorised yacht for a small group of passengers.
Thoms and Grant named their cruise line after one of the Para Handy stories written by Scottish journalist Neil Munro (1863-1930). These relate the comic adventures of the eponymous captain and the crew of The Vital Spark, a small steam-powered cargo boat, or "puffer", that carried goods to ports and islands along the west coast of Scotland. The stories were dramatised for television and in one episode the engineer, Dan McPhail, reveals that he is leaving the Vital Spark and has signed on to the Majestic Line, joining a ship with a golden funnel sailing to Rome. And the Glen Massan has a gold painted funnel. The Majestic Line offers three, four and six day cruises either for individuals or private groups. Several families and friends have chartered the boat for a holiday or celebratory party. The cruises are also perfect for corporate entertainment or a unique business event. The Glen Masson departs from Dunoon on the Holy Loch, which is about a 90 minute drive from Glasgow - a coach transfer can be arranged from Glasgow airport or train station. The great value cruise fare is all-inclusive of accommodation, meals (breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner, with wine), and some shore excursions. The cruising area covers the coastline around Arrochar, Loch Long, Loch Ridden, Inveraray, Loch Fyne, the Isles of Bute and Arran, as well as south to the Mull of Kintyre. There are normally two (optional) shore excursions a day, offering a range of activities depending on the location – island walks, fishing or visits to castles, stately homes and distilleries. Speciality cruises can be arranged for those interested in golf, bird watching, hill climbing, painting or whisky tasting. The boat moors each evening to ensure a peaceful sleep in a quiet, sheltered bay. Life on board
In true cruise fashion on departure from the port we raised a glass of champagne as we set sail up Loch Long. It was a relaxing and quiet afternoon as most guests had had a long journey that day. We sat watching the passing landscape in the observation saloon which doubles as the lounge and dining room. It’s also fun to sit out on the front deck to spot gannets and cormorants diving for fish as well as basking seals on the rocks. The crew point out interesting attractions – such as Faslane Naval Base, castles, islands, wildlife - along the way. Guests are welcome to visit the Bridge for a bird’s eye Captain’s view of the sea ahead. It’s fascinating to learn about the maps, charts, navigational instruments, radio communication with coastguards and weather reports. The ship – with turbo charged 500 horsepower diesel engine – does not speed along but travels at a leisurely pace for a relaxing journey.
This was used by the ancient Scottish kings as a hunting lodge as far back as Robert the Bruce. It is also recorded that Mary Queen of Scots visited in 1563. The castle remains in a ruined condition though there have been a number of attempts to privately restore it. We were offered the opportunity to go ashore by the tender – a speed boat – to enjoy a short walk around the village. This was great fun, stepping on to the sandy beach right beside the castle.
Dinner is served at one communal table with a set menu featuring fine Scottish cuisine. (Dietary preferences are catered for if requested in advance on booking.) The first night was deliciously tender, pale pink Scottish salmon with mashed potato, served with asparagus, broccoli and carrots. Then blueberry tart followed by cheese and biscuits. Complimentary white and red wine is offered with dinner. What a feast.! On warm summer days and evenings, meals can be served on the aft deck which has a similar long pine table and chairs.
The next morning it was exhilerating to climb up on deck before breakfast to breathe in the fresh air. 8.30am – there was hardly a breeze to ripple the calm waters of the loch and all around an idyllic Highland backdrop with the sun breaking through the clouds above the hills behind Carrick Castle. A gourmet breakfast was laid out with fresh fruit, creamy organic yoghurt, eggs, bacon, baskets of toast, pots of tea and coffee. The Skipper then announces plans for the day’s itinerary – weather can affect the journey. With so few passengers, and especially if you are a private party, individual requests can be catered for depending on what people wish to do.
The island’s most famous visitor attraction is Mount Stuart, the spectacular Victorian gothic mansion and botanical gardens, open during the summer season, (May to September). Built in 1877, featuring exquisite stained glass, marble and carved wood, it reflects the 3rd Marquess of Bute’s passion for art, astrology, mysticism and religion. Now owned by the 7th Marquess of Bute, Johnny Dumfries, (the former racing driver), the house has a magnificent collection of portraits, paintings and antiques. After a browse around the shops and a stroll along the promenade in Rothesay, the speed boat arrived on the jetty to take us back to the ship. Over lunch (soup, quiche and green salad) the engine roared into action and we set off again to head up the Kyles of Bute. Later, it was exciting to be up on the Bridge as we manoeuvred through a very narrow channel marked with large coloured buoys between tiny rocky islands. We continued up Loch Ridden and then moored just off shore so that guests could take a coastal walk down to the village of Tighnabruaich.
Three days was a perfect taster but everyone agreed they would return for a six day trip. This is a magical wee cruise ship with Celtic charm and style. The Majestic Line was only launched in June 2005 but already guests from the United States, Canada, Spain, the Netherlands, Belgium Ireland and the UK have come aboard. A party of Americans booked the Glen Massan for a family reunion which neatly combined with a cruising holiday. These are just some of the comments so far:
“ Fine ship, excellent crew, scenery, food and company all made for an exceptional holiday.” So successful has the first summer season been for Glen Massan, the owners of the Majestic Line are already planning to find a second fishing boat to renovate which will possibly be based at Oban for cruises around the Western Isles. Travel Information |
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TM
You will, no doubt, know of, and perhaps
have sailed with, Celebrity Cruises, Princess Cruises, QE2, Seabourn, Royal
Caribbean – the list goes on. With growing demand for cruises “for people who
don’t do cruises,” some ships are getting larger and larger, catering for
thousands of passengers, many specialising in resort-style, family vacations.
The whole ethos and manner of cruising has changed radically in recent years.
On the other hand many discerning
travellers want to escape the madding crowd at sea and prefer something small,
intimate, romantic and mainly for adults only. Hence the success of the 6 star
award winning Silversea Cruise line with no more than 382 passengers (on
two ships the maximum is 296) with a comparable number of staff to look after
you. Silversea is the ultimate in modern luxury cruising with impeccable style,
class and sophistication. 
The Hebridean Princess and her
sister ship, the Hebridean Spirit have been given a five star rating by
the latest Berlitz Guide to Cruising - regarded as the world's Bible on cruise
lines. Hebridean Princess was a recent winner of the best deluxe ship in the
Daily Express Cruise awards. 
“Mull was astern, Rum on the port,
This
floating hotel, gourmet cuisine, island tours and the enchanting ever-changing
landscape all exceeded expectations - magical, mesmerising, carefree. 
Launched in the summer of 2005 the
Glen Massan is an even smaller cruise ship sailing the Scottish seas. This
is in fact an 85 foot wooden fishing boat which has been beautifully refurbished
to create six en suite double cabins, crew quarters, a spacious Saloon, and
forward and aft sun decks. The maximum number of passengers is 12 with a crew of
three to four.
The refurbishment took place at Sandbank
on the Holy Loch near Dunoon. Expert boat builders, engineers, joiners,
craftsmen, painters and marine architects completed the extraordinary
transformation from an old fishing boat to the creation of a finely polished and
freshly painted new cruise ship. The total cost was £500,000.
I experienced a weekend cruise on the
Glen Massan which has certainly given me the appetite to book a full week. One
Friday morning, my partner Ken and I took the train to Glasgow where we were met
by Andrew, the Shore Director. With two other guests, we were then driven, via
Loch Lomond, to Dunoon on the Holy Loch to meet the other four passengers of our
house party of just eight passengers. We were welcomed aboard by Tim, the
Skipper, Rosie the Cook and Ian, the Engineer/boatman/porter/waiter (he
literally does everything!). 
We were then shown to our very
comfortable and cosy cabins, all with electric heater, shower room and
portholes with beds which can be configured as double or twin. 
Afternoon tea was served about 4.30pm
with delicious buttered scones and cherry cake. All that fresh sea air had given
us all a good appetite. Having sailed up the loch to Arrocher we then journeyed
south turning north west into Loch Goil. We moored just off shore at Carrick
Castle, a small village dominated by the tall and towering black stone 15th
century Castle. 
Back on board it was time to freshen up
for drinks and dinner. Unlike the grand ocean going liners, there’s no formal
dress code although guests may perhaps substitute day time denim jeans for
smarter trousers (pants) – but no black tie or evening dress required.! At
around 7pm guests gather in the saloon for a pre-dinner drink and chat about
their day. The house party atmosphere is great fun meeting new friends.
Don’t expect a casino, cabaret or
dancing girls – although a Ceilidh could be arranged for a private party.
Evening entertainment is simply not necessary. The bar stocks a wide selection
of malt whiskies so you may fancy a nightcap. There’s also a CD and DVD player
for music and movies, board games, cards and a small library of novels, Scottish
guides and books on nature and wildlife. (My one quibble is that there are no
“comfortable sofas” as described on the website, but one long carpet-covered
window seat piled with cushions – which is practical but can’t be described as
“luxury”.) 
Today we are heading for the Isle of
Bute and the town of Rothesay – famous as a traditional seaside resort from the
late 19th century and still popular for family holidays. The Isle of Bute is the
ideal destination for walkers, cyclists and golfers.
All excursions are optional – you may
stay on board and do nothing if you wish. Ian took four of us over to the
mainland by speed boat and advised that the walk would take us about an hour. It
was a delightful leisurely walk through woodland and along the seashore. 
Tighnabruaich is a pretty whitewashed
fishing village with art and antique shops and a very fine hotel – The Royal,
renowned for excellent seafood. We popped in for a drink in the bar sitting on
leather sofas in front of a roaring log fire. It was arranged that Ian would
come over to the hotel jetty about 5pm. 
Back on board the crew prepared to hoist
the anchor and we set off again to sail up Loch Ridden to our night’s safe
mooring. Time for dinner. The menu tonight: large slabs of succulent roast lamb
and roast potatoes with a platter of grilled Mediterranean vegetables, followed
by a scrummy chocolate dessert. No wonder after an active day and such excellent
food, guests tend to head off to bed by about 11pm. It’s that pure Scottish air.
The next morning was a little misty but
this quickly cleared after breakfast when the crew hauled the anchor aboard and
we turned south for our journey back to Dunoon. We spent the day cruising
around the south of Bute and around the island of Millport. By now everyone felt
totally at home on board the Glen Massan, watching the stunning scenery,
spotting seabirds, seals or a perfect rainbow, snoozing on deck loungers - or
just sitting in the bar.! 
“We had the time of our lives!”