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Vacationing in Verdant Vermont

By Valerie Summers

Winding along country roads at dusk, a covered bridge came into view and I thought back to The Bridges of Madison County.  There was something very romantic about this crossing over Quechee Gorge at sunset in Vermont. Just on the other side of the bridge, my fiancée and I entered the Historic Mill housing Simon Pearce handmade home accessories.  The building overlooked the gorge, the river’s white water leading up to the falls crashing down to the rocks below.  Inside, we wandered through displays of handmade modern glass objects, pottery and ceramics ranging from large platters to tiny bud vases then down the stairs to view two glassblowers firing up a graceful glass pitcher.

Simon Pearce is not just a custom trademark, but a real person.  Raised in County Cork, Ireland, Pearce began his career at the Royal College of Art in London and worked in some of Europe’s most renowned glass houses.  After his move to America, in 1981 he restored a historic woolen mill and harnessed the hydro-power of the Ottauguechee River for his glass furnace.  After a time, a modest pub was added for the convenience of the employees.  Like Topsy, everything grew and grew and grew.  Today, the restaurant attracts as many visitors as do Simon Pearce creations.

At seven o’clock we headed back upstairs to The Mill dining room where we were lucky enough to be seated at the primo dining spot jutting out over the river with a clear view of the falls.  Simon Pearce’s original glass and pottery pieces graced each table. The meal, as expected, was excellent.  We ordered house specialties, horseradish crusted cod with herbed mashed potatoes and crispy roast duckling with mango chutney sauce, ending our meal with what else than an assortment of Vermont cheese with dried and fresh fruit and nuts.

Continuing on, it was tricky finding our way down the country roads at night, but we finally arrived at our destination in Chittenden, at the warm and welcoming Mountain Top Inn and Resort.  We were shown to our country-style, spacious wood-paneled room with a pine four-poster bed.  Next morning we ambled down to partake in the extensive buffet breakfast where we piled on the pancakes and Vermont maple syrup along with an assortment of eggs, fruit, smoked salmon and breakfast breads then headed outside to the heated patio.   The view was extraordinary…an expanse of grassy green lawn sloping down to a wooded area where some of the trees were just beginning to don their autumn colors.  Further along, the Chittenden Reservoir nestled beneath the aptly named Green Mountains.  Following breakfast, we explored part of the resort’s 350 acre’s, hiking down to the reservoir where we discovered a private beach and a selection of small boats which belong to the hotel.

Later, we ventured over to the equestrian center which offered a choice of an English or Western riding experience with appropriate gear available at the activity center. The outdoor sporting menu also featured fishing, tennis, swimming, biking and birding.   The Inn originally operated as a summer destination, but eventually became a winter playground as well.  The Mountain Top Cross Country Ski Touring Center, an 85 kilometer cross country ski trail system, boasts some of the best Nordic skiing in the country.  Guests may  also busy themselves with other resort winter activities such as snow shoeing, ice skating and sleigh rides or may opt to just stay curled up inside by the roaring fireplace.  Mountain Top is truly a resort for all seasons.

We enjoyed several outstanding dinners at the in the Main Dining Room where Awards of Excellence lined the walls honoring the restaurant for both food and wine.  The sophisticated setting and attentive service added to the dining experience which featured New American Cuisine.

Mountain Top Inn’s humble start began as a turnip farm in 1871.  In 1940 a New York philanthropist purchased the farm and surrounding property and built an annex to their home for the use of their guests and staff.  The next owners, Bill and Margery Wolfe, expanded the inn, making improvements and additions while maintaining the integrity of the structure’s New England origin and the beauty and ecology of its natural surroundings.  The Wolfe’s hosted President Eisenhower and his entourage during a fishing expedition in 1955 along with several governors and other dignitaries. In the mid-90’s, the Wolfe family sold the Inn which fell into disrepair for several years.  In 2002, Lauren and Steve Bryant and a small group of investors, enchanted by the amazing views surrounding Mountain Top, purchased the property and have restored it to its former splendor.

This New England treasure provided a base for excursions into the beauty of nature as we hiked or drove down quiet country roads.  Cruising along the curving mountain road leading to Brandon Gap, a well known hiking area, we stopped to admire several stands of trees just beginning to show off their famous autumn colors.  Reaching the start of the hiking trails a short time later, we wended our way through the woods along narrow paths, over outcroppings of roots, climbing over large boulders until we reached our destination overlooking the tree-filled valley.  We found a comfortable spot and dug into the freshly prepared picnic lunch the hotel had packed for us, then retraced the hiking path back to the road.  On the way back to Mountain Top, we explored quaint villages, stopping to chat with the locals and sample some rich homemade Vermont ice cream and crispy just picked apples. It was as if we had been transported into another world in an unhurried time.

For information:

Mountain Top Inn & Resort
195 Mountain Top Road
Chittenden, VT  05737
800/445-2100
www.mountaintopinn.com

Simon Pearce Home Accessories and Restaurant
1760 Main Street
Quechee, VT
877/452-7763
www.simonpearce.com

Photos:  Valerie Summers
socalinfo@aol.com
www.scguide.com

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