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Madeira - the Pearl of the Atlantic

By Vivien Devlin

The origin of this lush tropical island, a tiny speck almost stranded in the ocean, is shrouded in mystery and legend - some believe it is part of the lost continent of Atlantis. Known as the “floating garden”, Madeira has a unique natural beauty – blossoming year-round with colourful exotic flowers, dramatic mountain peaks, fertile green valleys, waterfalls and high jagged cliffs dropping down to the seashore.

Discovered in 1419 by Zarco, one of Prince Henry’s Portuguese navigators, Madeira soon became an important resting place on the long voyage to the New World and later for steam ships on their way to and from India. One of the oldest tourist destinations in Europe, the British discovered the resort island by the mid 19th century - the warm climate attracted wealthy families to spend the winter months here.  Luxury hotels such as Reid’s Palace and fine country houses soon developed to cater for the growing number of visitors.  Once the favourite retreat of the rich and famous, Madeira, Portugal is now the preferred choice of the discerning independent traveller and sun-seeking holidaymaker. Nature lovers, sports enthusiasts, hill walkers, golfers, families, romantic couples of all ages and those in search of a relaxing environment will find a peaceful paradise island.

For lovers of fresh fish and seafood, Madeira is heaven. Regional dishes include the delicious white flaky white meat of the Espada, served traditionally with plantain, Tuna steak, Squid, Bacalhau, Portuguese salt cod,  and the famous Espetada, long beef kebabs cooked on a spit. Deep fried cornmeal, Milho, is often served as an accompaniment or salt marinated potatoes. The subtropical climate produces a great variety of fruit – bananas, avocado pear and passion fruit. A speciality is bolo de mel, dark honey cake and of course local Madeira wine, produced in different strengths and style, from sweet and golden to a rich, dark liqueur.

The tiny neighbouring island of Porto Santo reached by ferry or a 10 minute flight, is a true desert island – bone dry climate, swaying palm trees and a fabulous five mile white sand beach.  The main town of Vila Baleira with plaza, ancient church and market is utterly charming and full of character and history. Christopher Columbus married the local Governor’s daughter, Felipa Perestrello and their 15th century stone house is still preserved.

Madeira is a deceptively small island, just 35 miles [57 km] long and 13 miles [22 km], wide. Due to the mountainous terrain it can be quite a journey by road to travel from one end to the other – but it’s a wise visitor who plans a two or three destination holiday to experience the spectacular scenery and explore this magical island. 

When to Go?

Madeira is an all year round destination and particularly popular during the winter months by those living in northern Europe. High Season is Christmas and New Year – when you can enjoy spectacular festive parties and fireworks so book early – also  between February to May and July to October.

Throughout the year there are many superb festivals and religious Feast Days which are worth catching such as the February Carnival, the April Flower festival, the Music Festival in June and the Wine Festival in September. The Festa dos Reis [Three Kings] marks the 12th night on 6 January and the close of Christmas celebrations.

Where to stay?

You will find a wide selection of places to stay across the island from Reid’s Palace - still dominating the cliff top above Funchal over one hundred years later - to new five star luxury Spa resorts and charming historic country inns. Madeira can be proud of its long tradition in welcoming visitors, offering fine accommodation and hospitality.

For those seeking something distinctively Madeirian, several magnificent 19th century family homes have been transformed into small private hotels. Quintas were previously the grand mansions owned by wealthy aristocrats, landowners and government officials. You may also stay in an Estalagem, country inns high in the hills above Funchal, along the coast and in rural villages. Alternatively choose a golf hotel around Santo da Serra, or stay in the pretty seaside town such as Ponta da Sol – the sunniest spot on the island. Highly recommended is a trip over to the tiny island of Porto Santo for a couple of days, with a choice of good hotels for the ultimate get-away-from-it-all vacation.

The best places to stay

Choupana Hills Resort and Spa

Designed by French architects Michel de Camaret and Didier Lefort,  Choupana Hills is reminiscent of a luxury Malaysian resort. Not surprising, as they are renowned for designing sumptuous, secluded properties in exotic places including The Datai, Malaysia and Meridien, Bora Bora. Choupana Hills was recently voted “Europe’s Leading Boutique Hotel” and “Portugal’s Leading Spa Resort” at the World Travel awards. All around, natural woodland landscape, tropical flowers, Eucalyptus trees and volcanic rock provide a lush and exotic setting.

Located in terraces along the hillside is the guest accommodation. Thirty bungalow villas are divided into two separate, spacious guest rooms with ample sitting area, extra large canopied 4 poster bed with French windows leading out on to your own private veranda. It’s all very contemporary and oriental in style. The bare floors are scattered with rattan woven mats while the overall colour-scheme revolves around ebony black, tobacco brown, terracotta and ivory cream. Full length windows run the extent of the bungalow allowing sunlight to flood the space, or shade with blinds, while at night pyramid shaped lamps offer soft lighting. The long, slim bathroom is well designed with huge bath tub and separate shower closet,  surrounded by slabs of cool, grey marble.

For a little extra indulgence, you may also reserve one of the four fabulous Suites where guests have the entire bungalow, featuring a separate lounge and a more spacious bedroom with a rather decadent outdoor Jacuzzi on the veranda. This is a place for lovers. Order room service and you would never need to leave your suite!.

Continuing the Asian style and mood the Xopana Restaurant serves an exquisite Fusion menu combining Thai/Far Eastern cuisine with the finest local Madeiran produce.

The Choupana Hills Spa is your ultimate Chill Out Zone. Relaxation, light swimming, sunbathing, reading, with health and beauty treatments on the side, is the name of the game. Perfect the art of doing nothing in this haven of tranquility. The Spa is inspired by nature and a North African oasis, focusing on the therapeutic value of fresh water, mineral salts, steam and heat. A beautiful infinity pool is surrounded by tiny waterfalls, rockeries, ferns, palm trees and a charming pagoda with loungers placed around the terrace. The luxury indoor pool doubles as a Jacuzzi with strong water jets to pummel the muscles and relieve stress.

Choupana Hills is an exquisite concept combining the natural and cultural qualities of Madeira, Thailand and North Africa to create a hilltop hideaway for weary travellers. It’s tranquil, secluded and unbelievably romantic. This is the perfect paradise for a rejuvenating retreat.

www.choupanahills.com

Jardins do Lago

If you wish to stay near Funchal but away from the madding crowd, then Jardins do Lago is the perfect choice. Located twenty minutes from the airport and about a mile out of town up on a hill, this Quinta, an 18th century house was formerly the residence of General Beresford, Commander of the British Forces during the Napoleonic wars. Its great attraction is the garden – woodland, long avenues of banana and mango trees, flower borders, ponds, vegetable plot, greenhouse and wide lawns. Hidden behind the trees, you’ll find a beautifully designed outdoor swimming pool and spa facilities and there’s also a tennis court.

This is truly a magnificent mansion, carefully preserved with original antiques, furnishings and paintings; as you walk in the front door, you feel this is a place of distinction. A touch of class is also given to the bedrooms which are elegantly decorated in soft colours of cream, ochre, soft green and terracotta with polished wood floors, fine rugs and period style dark wood furniture. All rooms have a sitting area as well as lovely private verandas, with a view over the gardens and the sea.

I loved this charming, peaceful garden oasis and could have spent many a sunny day strolling about and sitting reading by the pool or on the lovely patio beside the house. But what do other guests think?  “A very beautiful hotel, excellent service and fine cuisine”;  “5 Star hotel, 6 star staff, we shall return one day”;  “ Wonderful hotel, a real pleasure - we shall be back.”

www.jardins-lago.com

Reid’s Palace

Reid’s Palace is the queen of the Madeiran hotels sitting proudly on her throne overlooking the bay of Funchal. Built in the 1880s by Scottish entrepreneur William Reid, it is part of that elite group of world class hotels like Raffles, Singapore, which people visit as a destination, rather than the country itself. With a cocktail lounge, ballroom, five restaurants and Spa, here you’ll find old fashioned British Colonial style and service, surrounded by lovely lush gardens. Over the past century royalty and VIPs have stayed here including Winston Churchill and George Bernard Shaw, who learned to dance on the magnificent tea terrace. There is something very special about this hotel probably because of its age, history and wonderful character.

www.reidspalace.com

Charming Hotels

A collection of absolutely delightful, small luxury hotels in and around Funchal. They are all fine historic properties, upgraded and modernised to provide very comfortable and sophisticated accommodation and excellent restaurants. Most of the hotels have fine swimming pools and Spa facilities. Highly recommended are Quinta do Estreito and Quinta das Vistas both located high on the hill with fabulous views.

www.charminghotelsmadeira.com

Visitor information

www.madeiratourism.org

www.madeira-island.com

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