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Wolf Blass- wines of class

By Darryl Beeson

In 1966, with a $2,000 overdraft, Wolf Blass set up his own winery in an old army shed. Numerous Jimmy Watson Trophies captured over the decades have helped to cement the international reputation of Blass wines. Approaching four decades later, they still remain based at Bilyara, in the heart of the Barossa. Make that the soul of the Barossa. Learn more at www.wolfblass.com .

Wolf Blass "Gold Label Riesling, Adelaide Hills 2004
Price $14        
Rating 92
This steely white floats like a butterfly, but the fruit character stings like a bee. The nose is packed with lime with some tropical melon. The sip follows suit with more bright citrus balanced with floral. The finish is dry.

"Serve with grilled fish with lemon, lime and black pepper," suggests wine maker Chris Hatcher. "This white will continue to develop under screwcap closure for the next five years. Its all about the wine."

Wolf Blass "Gold Label" Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills 2004
Price $21                    
Rating 90
Aromas of crisp grapefruit and other citrus fill the nose. Complex, creamy tree fruit are in the sip. The length is long and bracing.

"Serve this Chardonnay with fresh snapper, served with tomato, red pepper, onion, all in coconut milk, garnished with lime and chile," suggests wine maker Chris Hatcher. "The scewcap closure ensures the freshness and character of this wine. It will continue to improve in the cellar over the next few years."

Wolf Blass "Gold Label" Shiraz, Barossa 2002
Price $25                    
Rating 92
"The Barossa Valley is Shiraz paradise with wide daily temperature ranges developing great color and structure," explains wine maker Chris Hatcher. The color is like red velvet. Scents of anise, licorice, exotic spice and ripe berries fill the nose. The sip is concentrated with blackberry and spicy jam. A bit of oak is balanced in the long, complex length. The tannins are smooth.

The winery suggests pairing this powerful red wine with slow-roasted lamb shanks with tomato relish, served with creamy pepper mashed potatoes.

Wolf Blass "Gold Label" Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra 2002
Price $24                    
Rating 95
A diverse array of complexity rises within the nose. Imagine very ripe black fruit, floral like violets, mint leaf and cocoa powder all in the mix. The sip is big, powerful, ripe and complex. All aspects are well-balance with plum and earthin the long, interesting finiah.

Andrew Hales takes credit for the wine making, though Chris Hatcher has risen to the occasion in more recent years. The winery suggests the simple food pairing of lamb filet with a mint and rosemary crust. Cellar this fascinating red for another decade to really see what it is about.

Wolf Blass "Grey Label" Cabernet Sauvignon, Langhorne Creek 2003
Price $32                    
Rating 94
The bouquet is immense with ripe fruit, spice and eucalyptus, along with cocoa and mineral. The sip shows powerful weight on the palate. There is an array of ripe berry fruit, along with vanill and brown spice with soft tannins in the long finish.

Wine maker Chris Hatcher suggests pairing the big red wine wih Frenched lamb cutlets in a mint and honey glaze, served with parsnip puree. Cellar the wine for another ten years, if you can resist this one.

Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine values. In the past, he has been wine steward or cellar master for The Mansion on Turtle Creek, Voltaire, and The Adolphus Hotel. Not one for stuffiness or secret handshakes relative to wine, this Texan might now be described as a "ki-yi-yippee sommelier, sommelier." Beeson reports on wine, spirits, food and travel for numerous publications.

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