How I Learned to Love Yakitori
By Edith Hall Friedheim
I was born at least one generation too soon, before trips
to the moon and Japanese cuisine caught on. So when a friend visiting New York
suggested dinner at Sushi Twist, a relatively new restaurant specializing in
you-know-what, I was not enthusiastic. Raw fish has never been high on my list
of favorites. I can't even pronounce most items on a sushi menu. But a gnawing
sense of obligation to my guest, not to mention a bit of morbid curiousity, got
the better of me and I agreed to give it a try.
Best decision I've made in years. Sushi Twist, 66 Madison
Ave. at 27th St., is serving up some of the most interesting and imaginative
combinations on this planet, or at least on Manhattan's east side. Deciding what
to eat there isn't easy; the menu offers a very tempting galaxy of regular and
deluxe sushi assortments - including vegetarian options - lunch specials and
complete dinners. And there are other Japanese dishes besides sushi, most
significantly tempura, sashimi and teriyaki. Before ordering, we languished over
a pitcher of white wine lichee sangria which we accompanied with the most
delectable Soft-Shell Crab Tempura over seaweed salad (nori) with teriyaki
sauce, sesame seeds, and edamame. Opting for salad over soup, we shared the
restaurant's signature Twist Salad, a tuna and salmon sashimi with avocado and
caviar, romaine lettuce and seaweed in a terrific sweet and spicy dressing. By
the time we finished the salad I was seriously considering reversing my position
on sushi as a way of life. Then came the Jazz Roll – more tuna, this time spicy
and topped with salmon and ikira (salmon roe) sashimi and accented with avocado.
A mild Sweet Potato Tempura Roll garnished with fresh broccoli, carrots and
beets suited my orthodox taste. However, for my companion (I'm still not ready
for raw fish) nothing outstripped the Spicy Tuna Tartare, finely chopped fresh
tuna tossed with spicy sauce, topped with caviar and the yolk of a quail egg and
surrounded with a ring of thinly sliced cucumber.
 
The Special Rolls at Sushi Twist have irresistible names
like Dancing Eel, Peacock, Explosion, Volcano, and Fire Ball. Most but not all
have a tuna base, and the Tokyo Triangle Roll skillfully combines tuna, salmon,
yellowtail, squid and octopus with cucumber and scallions in a sushi-lover's
dream. Every dish that arrives at the table is a work of art, a still life of
color and design; obviously Sushi Twist values its presentation as much as its
cuisine. We couldn't bring ourselves to disturb the platters until we had taken
countless photos from every conceivable angle. As to the restaurant's lay-out,
the pace is long and narrow, with two dining areas one behind the other and the
soothing décor you'd expect from a Japanese restaurant. Live jazz musicians
entertained us, albeit cross-culturally, 40's and 50's pop tunes played quietly
and unobtrusively.
 
A bit of background for the neophyte: Sushi originally was
a Japanese method for preserving fish by pressing it between two pieces of
vinegared rice, like a sandwich. Later, nori (seaweed) was added to prevent
one's fingers from getting sticky while eating. Traditionally the word sushi
referred only to the rice itself, but today the term is used to describe any
finger-sized piece of raw or cooked fish served with vinegared rice. In contrast
to sushi, sashimi is just fish served alone without rice or anything else.
As what seemed to me like a nod to Western taste, Sushi
Twist was featuring fried bananas on the dessert menu the night we visited. We
sampled them but our hearts weren't in it. We were already planning our next
visit.
Sushi Twist
66 Madison Avenue (between 27th and 28th St.)
New York, N.Y. 10016
Tel. 212-213-2682; Web Site:
www.sushitwist.com
Photos by Madelyn Miller, the Travellady |
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