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Sailing, kayaking and swimming with dolphins

In the Florida Keys there are water sports for every passion

By Lucy Komisar

There was a brisk breeze, what sailors dream about, not rough enough to be scary for a neophyte like me, but swift enough, about 20 mph, so that you didn’t have to engineer sophisticated tacks to move through the Atlantic waters. Craig Yokal, head of the sailing school at Hawk’s Cay, said it was normal for Duck Key, which had faster winds than elsewhere in the Keys.

We climbed on the two-masted Colgate training boat, designed with a comfortable cockpit (where you sit), so that Craig can take out four students. He had two learners this morning, and after we slipped on the yellow splash jackets, we got a short class in what a tiller does. First, I maneuvered the boat through the channel, past some gorgeous Duck Key homes, and into the Atlantic. Then came some lessons about the sails, as Craig pulled on the ropes to raise them.

After that, tacking, pushing the tiller to the other side, ducking under the boom to switch sides. A few times as my companion worked the tiller, I held the line of the jib. By the end of 2 ½ hours, I was aching to take the 3 or 5-day course Craig gives. And wondering if I’d ever be good enough to sign up for the advanced class that prepares people to charter their own boats.

Hawk’s Cay Resort is a paradise for people who love water sports. At the marina and on the property, head out for fishing, sailing, kayaking, scuba, snuba, snorkeling, water skiing, wakeboarding cruises, parasailing, glass bottom boating, and more.

Snuba? Never heard of that? It’s for people who want to get deeper down than snorkelers, but don’t want to carry around oxygen tanks on their backs. You have a breathing tube that is attached to an oxygen supply that floats on the water. Beginning snuba divers get an hour of instruction, then go by boat 45 minutes to the reef where they dive for an hour. Wish I could tell you more, but my snuba excursions at Hawk’s Cay were cancelled because of weather: storms had caused rough seas or poor visibility.

However, it wasn’t very rough in the enclosed salt water lagoon alongside the hotel. It was full of dolphins and the people who like to swim with them. They’d been given 20 minutes training and explanation about the dolphins and then for about 25 minutes they splashed with the friendly sea animals, under the watchful eye of a trainer who helped the interaction along. Kids loved it; so did everyone else.

We left the dolphins to enjoy a leisurely patio lunch, with the strains of live West Indies music filtering out between the tables and the pool.

Hawk’s Key is a private village, with groups of villas set along the water, a clump of tennis courts, scattered restaurants, several pools, and the dockside for water sports. The villas are privately owned, but there are generally rentals available. With two floors, several bedrooms, and patio and porch, they are perfect for families. Or you can stay at the hotel.

 

If you don’t go kayaking at Hawk’s Cay, you can try it further south.  It’s about 60 miles to Key West and Stock Island, where we spent another couple of days, heading back into the water.

Kayaking

Stock Island is Key West’s lower-rent neighbor, a place where artists and fisherman find places they can afford, though that won’t last long. It’s also the jumping off point for a kayaking tour through the mangrove swamps, an excellent way to see the swamp’s stunning sights.  We took the two-hour trip by Lazy Dog Charters, going through mysterious corridors overhung with twisting verdant boughs.

We choose a double kayak rather than a single. I thought my partner, seated behind, would use his greater strength to give me an easy journey. Then I twisted around and discovered he had pulled in his paddle and was sunning himself as I did all the work!

There were just three boats in our small expedition, and we were led by a skilled naturalist who explained in detail the plant and sea life we saw along the way. We stopped on a sandbar for a break and more explanations from our guide.

The sunset cruise

It’s almost a cliché of Key West that you have to see the sunset. We’d done that plenty of times from the harbor, but the distance between us and the departing sun seems great and the crowds spoil the intimacy. We discovered a better way: from a 65-foot sail boat in a wine-tasting sunset sail by Danger Charters. There were only about a dozen people aboard. The wine was serious, described and poured by the boat’s captain before we set sail, with plenty of refills as well as cheese and other tasty snacks after we got under way. The sunset was brilliantly red, seeming to surround us and giving a magical hue to the experience.

Imagine yourself on the boat! (Is the blur from the wine?)

Hawk’s Cay Resort
61 Hawk's Cay Blvd
Duck Key, FL 33050
http://www.hawkscay.com
(800) 432-2242 information and reservations.
(205) 743-9000 water activities.

 

Steve and Doris Colgate’s Offshore Sailing School.
http://www.offshoresailing.com.
sail@offshoresailing.com.
(800) 221-4326.

Dolphins information and reservations, dolphins@hawkscay.com.
(888) 814-9154, (305) 743-7000 x 1220.
Advance reservations recommended and accepted 6 months in advance.

Lazy Dog Kayak Guides
2-hour kayak tour; 4-hour kayak/snorkel tour; also kayak rentals.
Hurricane Hole Marina (MM4) on US 1
www.lazydogkeywest.com.
(305) 295-9898.

Danger Charters Wine Tasting Sunset Sails
Hilton Marina Slip #7.
http://dangercharters.com.
(305) 296-3272 or (305) 304-7999.

by Lucy Komisar

 

 


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