Great Granite in Yosemite
By Karoline Cullen
 The
meadow glows golden in the afternoon sun. It
is dotted with people looking up, eyes glued to binoculars. Joining in, I scan
the massive rock face of El Capitan and spot a tiny speck moving slowly upwards.
My bino-toting neighbour explains the speck is a rock climber. The ascent
entails a two-night bivouac on that sheer hunk of granite and I wonder how the
climber weathered yesterday’s storm.
We’ve come to Yosemite National Park for a less extreme
tour of the landscape made famous by Ansel Adams’ photographs. In the Sierra
Nevada of Eastern California, Yosemite covers three-quarters of a million acres,
spans 3400 meters of elevation, and encompasses groves of giant sequoias,
massive granite formations, a valley carved by glaciers, and alpine wilderness.
It would take a lifetime to explore it all but we have two days for the
highlights.
 Our mini-exploration begins with a hike through the
Mariposa Grove of giant sequoias. These red-barked, gnarly trees are the Earth’s
largest living things by volume. They are not so much tall as massive,
are fire resistant, and live hundreds of years. One called the Grizzly Giant is
thought to be 1800 years old. Scarred by fire and with twisted branches, Grizzly
looks like it could tell some tales. The paths amongst these silent giants are
peaceful, and on our return, a deer and her fawn pass us.
 A winding road flanked by dense forest leads to the Glacier
Viewpoint, at the edge of a soaring, sheer cliff. Below stretches Yosemite
Valley and the granite formations that cradle it. Directly in front is Half
Dome. Its stark face is straight as if sliced by a knife and the gray-streaked
rounded side is a smoothly curved dowager’s hump. Far below, Upper and
Lower Yosemite Falls spill hundreds of meters. A blanket of gray cloud rolls in,
obscures the view, and drenches us with a freezing downpour. Scurrying back to
the car through the mist, we regretfully cancel our stop at Taft Viewpoint, with
its spectacular near 1000-meter drop from its edge.
The forest presses close as we motor through the storm, out
the West entrance of the Park, and on to our B&B for the night. Warmly welcomed,
we soon sit on the covered deck, glass of wine in hand. The drone of
hummingbirds fills the air as dozens zoom in for their evening meal at the
feeders ringing the deck. Our hostess is an expert on Yosemite and insists we
visit her favorite part of the Park, the high country along Tioga Road.
 Fortunately, the next day dawns with conditions highly
conducive to a high-country drive. Tioga Road was initially constructed as a
mining road in the 1880’s. It steadily gains elevation and winds us through
forests, past wide meadows, along lakes, and above the tree line. At Olmsted
Point, a rocky outcrop offers a vista filled with granite, Half Dome, and
glacier erratics – giant boulders left behind by the retreating glaciers that
carved the valley. It’s a monochromatic panorama of grays and dark
greens, brightened with an occasional tree in its yellow autumn glory.
 Retracing our route, we descend to some Valley viewpoints.
Bridalveil Falls, enlarged by yesterday’s rainfall, pour down a sheer granite
face in a thunderous cascade and the spray is refreshing. Sunbeams pierce the
mist around dark trees standing like sentinels along the high ridge above the
falls. At Tunnel View the entire valley, flanked by Half Dome, opens before us.
There are evergreens and textured granite as far as we can see.
We skip the Valley Village’s Visitor Centre, shops, and
museum in favour of lunch at the venerable Ahwhanee Hotel. This National
Historic Landmark was opened in 1927. Its design reflects Art Deco, Arts and
Crafts, and Native American influences. The grand public rooms feature giant
stone fireplaces, massive beams, tapestries, and stained glass. Lunch on the
patio gives a view of the grassy valley floor flanked by a treed wall of
granite.
 After lunch, we drive through tree tunnels towards the
meadow facing El Capitan. Golden grass is waving at the cliff’s base,
the sun is warm, and a long white cloud makes a necklace across the rock face.
The rock climber is obscured, but only for a moment.
FYI:
Yosemite National Park gets over 3 million visitors a year.
Summer is particularly busy so plan far ahead for accommodations. Waterfalls are
biggest in May and June. The Glacier Point area is popular for cross-country
skiers in winter. Tioga Road is closed from late fall until mid to late spring.
www.nps.gov/yose/
Blackberry Inn Bed and Breakfast
www.blackberry-inn.com
Photos by Karoline and Gary Cullen
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