Ecuador Rafting& More Outdoor AdventuresBy Robert Painter
The excitement builds as my raft mates look at the whitewater rushing past and put on their wetsuits, life vests and helmets. The good news is that we're sharing this adventure with Yacu Amu, a veteran outfitter that was one of the co-sponsors of the 2005 Championships. While the section we'll be rafting has only one Class V rapid, there will be plenty of Class IVs and we will run a section of the river that was an actual part of the Championship run.
As soon as everyone gets their gear on we go through the usual orientation with the guide explaining all the safety procedures. It seems that outdoor guides the world over all have the same jokes. Maybe it's because they follow the weather and travel about the globe looking for new opportunities. Maybe the guide here is the first guide I ever had somewhere in Wyoming or Utah. But the jokes seem to work, they reassure the first timers and they begin to build the camaraderie that is needed for a successful trip through the white water.
It would be easy to spend every day in Ecuador on the river. And not just the Quijos. Rio Misahualli, Rio Toachi and Rio Blanco and many others are waiting. Let me back track on that last statement a bit. Yes, I could spend every day on the river, but then I'd miss a lot of other great outdoor activities. A canoe trip down one of the Amazonian rivers with the opportunity to see the local indigenous people going about their daily activities, whether it be fishing, cast netting or maybe doing the laundry at the river's edge.
Speaking of birds, Ecuador is a birder's paradise with the largest and smallest birds on the planet. Ranging from the magnificent Condor to the tiny Hillstar. This ornithologist's dream country is home to over 1600 distinct species. I even spotted an Andean Cock-of-the rock(Rupicola peruviana) but couldn't get a good photo - he moved a bit too quickly.
You've probably already guessed that Rock Climbing is readily available here as well. Even in the city of Guayaquil the Guayas climbing wall is one of the largest artificial walls in South America. But don't worry, there is plenty of the real thing in the Ecuadorian Andes.
If you want to stay in the heart of all this activity and
have a place to really relax at the end of your adventurous day I can heartily
recommend the Termas de Papallacta Spa & Resort. This place is simply
sensational. The rooms are very nice, but I hardly remember them. What I do
remember is that outside of every door are hot springs pools. And I don't mean
one large pool for everyone to share.
If you're a shopper consider the Otavalo Market, reportedly the largest indigenous market in South America. Even if you don't buy anything you could spend a few hours wandering about the booths looking at the beautiful art and local crafts. And, just a few blocks up the street is another market. More of a farmer's market, you'll find a few exotic things you may not see in any market back in the states. I won't even try to describe it - you'll need to go see for yourself.
You don't even have to worry about figuring out the exchange rate. In Ecuador the standard currency is the US dollar. I hate to break anybody's bubble, but for those of you who are collecting the golden dollar coins minted in the U.S., I can tell you that they are not as rare as they may seem in the states. The fact is that they are in everyday circulation in Ecuador. They don't print paper one dollar bills so everyone uses the US dollar coins.
I wish I could tell you more, but this space is filled. Standing on the equator was an experience to be remembered - you'll have to do it for yourself to know what I mean. Keep on traveling. Story and photos by Robert Painter: When You Go: A great outfitter - Yacu Amu: www.yacuamu.com. Ask for the beautiful travel planner: www.purecuador.com. (Get a Travel Map here, also.) Termas de Papallacta Spa and Resort: http://www.papallacta.com.ec. |
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I'm sitting on the rocks alongside the Quijos River
struggling to pull on a wet suit. The Quijos was the site of the 2005 World
Rafting Championships and within a few minutes I'll be traversing some of the
same rapids where the Russians, Australians and a host of other national teams
competed to be number one in the rafting world.
My group has quite a mixture. From a couple of folks who
have never been in a white water raft to myself with some experience (my longest
trip was about 140 miles on the River of No Return in the Frank Church
Wilderness in Idaho) to a participant in the 2005 Championships (Yacu Amu's
Steve Nomchung) as well as our guide.
The next step is a bit scary for the newcomers. We walk
upstream through the rocks alongside the Quijos to a point about a hundred yards
above the first set of rapids. Final instructions are given about lying on our
backs, using the life vest collars to hold our heads out of water rather than
lifting our heads, a reminder to try to keep our feet downstream and then a
final command to jump as far out into the rushing water as possible.
After a quick, wet trip through the rapids we aim ourselves
toward the waiting rafts on the shore downstream. Everyone is exhilarated.
Everyone survived the first set of rapids in the water. A few had moments of
panic as they inhaled a bit of water in place of air, but no one opted out of
the rest of the trip. Most felt they had done the hard part and didn't want to
miss the fun part. A quick review of paddling instructions and we launch the
rafts - six paddlers and a guide in each. In this stretch Yacu Amu has chosen to
bring along a safety kayak for anyone who might have a problem.
The big white water comes in rapid succession. One class
IV after another with a few class III rapids in between. The Quijos keeps
us busy and the newcomers rapidly become old hands. Our guide knows
exactly how to handle the group and instills confidence in all the paddlers.
He even has a little celebration after each successful rapid run. He has
everyone raise the paddle overhead, then simultaneously slap it down on the
water. We have to do it quickly, because the next class IV is just ahead.
Everyone is excited, laughing and having a grand time. No one has time to
be scared. Or at least they don't have time to express their fears.
When we paddle around the last bend to the takeout and we have reached the end
of the run there are mixed feelings of relief and disappointment. Some are
happy to have accomplished the trip and others wish the day were endless
It was a day of adventure, a day of fun and excitement, a day of conquering
fears and a day to be remembered. For some it was a once in a lifetime event,
for others it was a day to be repeated in other rivers, in other parts of the
world.
How about a horseback ride through the jungle? Not just a
nose to tail walk along a dusty trail, but an adventure through the wilderness.
On my ride, someone even fell off his horse into a river that we were crossing.
But don't worry, he wasn't hurt. Maybe just a bit embarrassed. We even trotted
the horses in places. There were streams to cross, hills to climb, beautiful
jungle plants to view and tropical birds to behold. And there are plenty of
other riding opportunities in addition to trail rides.
For mountain climbers and trekkers, Ecuador is hard to
beat. Cotopaxi at 19,350 feet is the tallest active volcano in the world. And
Chimborazo, one of South America's tallest peaks is 20,702 feet. There are
plenty of 15,16, 17 & 18 thousand feet possibilities. And plenty of guide
services to help with your plans and your climb.
If you're an experienced Mountain Biker there are descents
of up to 10,000 feet in the Andes. There is reportedly even a path down the
Cotopaxi Volcano, but I haven't tried it - yet! And for scenic beauty you
probably will find the waterfall route from Banos Puyo hard to match.
There are rentals available if you don't want to bring your own bike.
When
it comes to waterfalls you won't want to miss the fabulous falls of San Rafael.
They are stunning and the hike in through the jungle is worth the trip alone.
You'll see leaf cutter ants carrying parts of leaves many, many times larger
than themselves - and all marching along in an amazing procession. And, when it
comes to leaves, you'll find some gigantic ones along the way. Of course, there
will be termite mounds, exotic birds and a beautiful trail.
I mean many small pools, some connecting
with others, but all with wonderful, hot mineral water in which to just lie back
and soak. I think there may be a couple of cold water pools, but I didn't look
for them. I didn't want to leave my pool outside my door. It was like having my own private pool, although they are all available to all the guests. If you
want hotter water, you just move closer to the waterfall spilling into your
pool. Since it is a continually flowing spring, there is no need for chlorine
or other chemicals. If you can drag yourself out of your hot pool there is also
a full service spa with massage and other treatments available. For me, the hot
springs pools were plenty, but I can imagine that using this place as a base and
going rafting, biking & trekking every day for a week, the occasional massage
might be just the ticket for a perfect vacation.
You've figured out by now that I think Ecuador is a perfect
place for an outdoor adventure trip, but there is plenty to do for the less
adventurous. I don't have room to talk about the Galapagos which, of course,
has it's own fascinations. For scuba diving, bird watching, hiking, whale
watching, trekking, photography and relaxed sightseeing the islands are hard to
beat. Check the web sites listed below for a story on the
Galapagos. 
I will tell you some of the things to look for in the craft
market. For gifts, buy some beautiful scarves at 2 for $5. If you want a
fabulous looking and fabulously warm sweater, pick up an Alpaca one for yourself
and get a couple more for friends. I bought a couple of beautiful table cloths
at the market and found some great little napkin rings in a shop back in Quito.
And the weavings are a tremendous bargain. I bought a perfect wall hanging for
only $35. And remember - Ecuador is where Panama hats really come from.
Imagine this. When you land in Quito with an elevation of
9,000 feet you will be landing in a valley. Quito is a wonderful city, with
beautiful colonial buildings and a nearby mountain that you can visit - but wait
for a clear day so you can see the city below.