A dozen complex red wines for winter
By Darryl Beeson
The following red wines pack power and complexity,
sometimes merely subtlety, and may be priced accordingly for the fine quality.
Serve with lamb, Sonoma lamb if you can find some (even with the Napa wines), or
with lusty winter vegetable stews that include cracked pepper and pinches of
rosemary from the remaining garden. These reds are perfect with flamed filet
mignon or big, thick sirloin, seared rare and cut upon the bias, then sprinkled
with minced, fresh herbs. Maybe consider a thick-crust gourmet version of a
meat-lovers pizza, sprinkled with fennel seed.
Arrowood Syrah "Saralee's Vineyard" Russian River 2003
Price $36
Rating 97
Notice the intense blackberry, cassis, pepper, hints of leather and exotic spice
throughout the long, complex experience. To learn more, visit
www.arrowoodvineyards.com.
Shannon Ridge Syrah, High Valley 2006
Price $19
Rating 94
Situated high in the mountains of Clear Lake, California, this red speaks of a
specific origin. Steep slopes, great drainage and volcanic soils contribute to
the wine's uniqueness. Go to
www.shannonridge.com to learn more.
Ravenswood Syrah, Sonoma 2004
Price $18
Rating 93
Founder Joel Peterson boasts rightfully of this red's floral complexity, smoke,
along with concentrated, jammy black cherry. There are hints of pepper and
leather. This syrah has good, complex length on the palate. Go to
www.ravenswoodwinery.com.
Curtis Winery "Heritage Cuvee" Santa Barbara 2005
Price $14
Rating 96
The blend is Rhone inspired, being 50% Grenache, 19% Syrah, 18% Mourvedre and
13% Cinsaut. Wine maker Chuck Carlson is an important part of California's
so-called "Rhone Ranger" wine movement. Concentrated black fruit aromas with
nuances of strawberry, exotic spice, then big flavors of black cherry and
blackberry with vanilla and hints of tobacco. The wine is balanced, with soft
tannins on the finish. Learn more info at
www.CurtisWinery.com.
Finca Sandoval Syrah, Manchuela 2001
Price $35
Rating 93
Note complex aromatics of earth, intense cassis and blackberry, pepper,
licorice, and a nuance of mocha or maybe chocolate, followed by smooth tannins.
This wine originates from east-central Spain from an altitude of over 2,500
feet. It contains 7% Mourvedre grape to offset the powerful Syrah. Being a work
in progress, well-known Spanish journalist Victor La Serna is bringing the
world's attention the long-forgotten Manchuela appellation. This, an older
vintage, maybe harder to locate. Any vintage will likely be impressive.
Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico, Tuscany 2004
Price $20
Rating 89
There are aromas of black cherry, plum, a touch of herb and oak nuance. The very
good concentration is nicely balanced with soft tannins and crisp acidity. They
have recently hired the renowned consultant Riccardo Cotarella to assist in
winemaking duties. As Cotarella has a part in many of Italy's finest wines, look
for those of Castello di Volpaia to earn new levels of complexity and regard.
Gascon Malbec, Mendoza 2006
Price $12
Rating 89
The sip begins with blackberry and blueberry fruit followed by dark chocolate
and earthy notes throughout the finish. Green, herbal, earthy aromas dominate
the nose, saddled by black fruits and black pepper. On the palate, it's all
black, ripe fruit, with black pepper, cedar spice and wrapped with ripe tannins
and a good level of acidity. Learn more at
www.gasconwines.com.
Moon Mountain Estate Grown Malbec, Sonoma 2004
Price $45
Rating 94
The aromas and flavors are packed with dark, ripe fruit, with hints of mocha and
tobacco. The length is long and complex. High in the Mayacamas Mountains on the
western side of Mt. Veeder, more than 1,000 feet above the Sonoma Valley, Moon
Mountain Vineyard has some of the most difficult winegrowing conditions in
California. Organic farming keeps the vines in balance and healthy, while
enhancing the grapes' flavors. Details are at
www.moonmountainvineyards.com.
Charles Joguet Chinon Cuvee Terroire, Loire 2005
Price $17
Rating 92
This is an old world, dank and sediment ladened red, perfect for old world
foods Black fruit and "brett" are the order of the day. Learn more at
www.charlesjoguet.com. The wine is
imported by Kermit Lynch.
Domaine Mark Kreydenweiss "Perrieres" Costières de Nimes
2003
Price $17
Rating 93
Third generation Alsatian producer and fervent follower of Bioynamie (strict
biodynamic principles), Marc Kreydenweiss now spends quality time in the South
of France and crafts this red plum and blackberry beauty from the Carignan,
Grenache and Syrah grapes. The importer is Wilson-Daniels.
Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2005
Price $28
Rating 93
This always dependable Cabernet is well-balanced, with concentrated dark fruit,
especially currant, black cherry, complex and elegant earthiness, herbal nuances
and cedar/vanilla oak notes. While profoundly tannic, this luscious red has a
balance of elegance and refined grace that makes it smooth on the long,
complexly layered length. The blend is 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet
Franc, 5% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot, 2% Malbec and interestingly enough, 1% Syrah.
Robert Mondavi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2004
Price $125
Rating 95
This powerhouse of concentrated Napa Cabernet Sauvignon runs the gamut of
layers, complexities, ripe fruit and balanced, long-chain tannins, There is an
array of black fruit, fennel, brown spice and cedar in the long, complex length.
The blend is 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Go
to www.robertmondaviwinery.com.
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Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great food,
wine, spirits and the unique destinations that provide such. He is American
editor of www.wineontheweb.com and
teaches for The International Sommelier Guild at
www.internationalsommelier.com. |
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