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A Destination Called Mystic

By Valerie Summers

Mystic Pizza, made famous by the movie of that same name, was my sole familiarity with the town of Mystic in Connecticut.  I had no idea of the treasures that this destination held until my recent visit to the area.  I drove along Main Street through the commercial section past the famous pizza parlor,  just one of the businesses housed in century old New England buildings.  The tiny historic town looked like a picture postcard from out of the past.  Crossing the old Mystic River drawbridge, I turned up a road where a sign designated The Inn At Mystic. I had heard this was the nicest place in town to stay.  Motoring up a small hill, a white Colonial Revival mansion surrounded by flower filled English style gardens came into view.  Upon my arrival, I was promptly escorted to my room and found myself ensconced amidst a romantic canopied bed, wood burning fireplace, a Jacuzzi tub in the shape of a Japanese soaking tub and a balcony with a view of Mystic Harbor and Long Island Sound.  Off to a good start, I thought.

Settling into my room I made my final decision of attractions to visit.  The Mashantucket Pequot Native American Museum, the Mystic Aquarium, and Mystic Seaport -- the Museum of America and the Sea peaked my interest.  I also wanted to include time for bicycling through the residential neighborhoods to view the lovely gardens and varied New England architecture and to kayak around the harbor, getting a seaside seaport view. 

Mystic Seaport, my first destination, just a short drive or kayak ride from the Inn, pays tribute to the shipping industry.  Its 17 acres of public exhibition space includes a 19th century coastal village with historic ships, a working preservation shipyard and extensive exhibit galleries.  Three hundred years ago, this legendary maritime destination on the banks of the Mystic River was filled with ships, shops and a shipyard.  As I wandered around the grounds, I encountered more of the same. During my exploring of the Seaport, I gleaned a better understanding as to the relationship of America and the sea. 

Along with families and seniors, I leisurely examined the exhibits, pausing to enjoy the seaport scenery.  Groups of school children of all ages scurried through the grounds, in and out of shops staffed with crafts people:  pressmen creating flyers the old fashioned way, woodcarvers, blacksmiths forging sea-themed designs of iron and coopers hollowing out wooden barrels.  The children leaped onto tall ships, exploring them from top to bottom, then watched a demonstration of unfurling the sails while two staff members precariously balanced high on a thick rope alongside the towering mast.   Mystic Seaport boasts four vessels that are designated national Historic Landmarks including the Charles W. Morgan, the world's last surviving wooden whaleship; the Joseph Conrad, a full-rigged 1882 training ship; and the L.A. Dunton, the last surviving example of early 20th century New England fishing vessels.

Mystic Seaport creates an multi-generational educational experience which just seems like lot of fun to its visitors.  In the Discovery Barn filled with interactive exhibits and hands on activities, children learn how to tie sailor's knots and furl a sail.  At the Children's Museum, the under seven crown swab the decks, move cargo, cook in the galley and curl up in ship's bunks.

I particularly enjoyed the figurehead museum, an eclectic grouping of colorful wooden carvings which originally adorned some ships bows, then viewed the world's largest collection of boats and maritime photography, visited the Planetarium where I had a lesson in celestial navigation, then wandered through the shipbuilding facilities.

The seaport boasts one of the world's only preservation shipyards where skilled crafts people employ 19th century tools and techniques to preserve Mystic Seaport's unequaled collection of historic wooden ships and boats and also builds authentic re-creations of famous vessels such as Amistad.  Wandering along the sea front, I discovered a small wooden boat with a Danish flag and the name Gerda III painted on the side which I learned was the largest sea vessel which sailed Danish Jews out of harm's way during the Nazi invasion.

Mystic Seaport is open year 'round with special events featured regularly including a Lobsterfest, small craft weekend, antique and classic boat rendezvous, New England ghost stories at Mystic Seaport and Lantern Light Tours.

Continuing my water themed exploration of the area, I headed for the Mystic Aquarium, certainly one of the most interesting and unusual aquatic destinations I have even visited.  I gave it an A plus for lots of interaction and hands on exhibits, rather than just offering visitors a look at sea creatures through glass.

The highlight of my visit was my participation in the Penguin Contact Program where I first enjoyed a tour behind the scenes of the penguin exhibit with one of their trainers.  This was followed by a classroom visit where I, along with nine other visitors, sat in a circle on low stools as a penguin walked freely around the group, allowing us to touch and hold him and for him to check us out while his trainer enlightened us as to penguin behavior.  Although I did not participate, I later watched several visitors enter the shallow end of the Alaskan Coast exhibit, the beluga habitat for an up close encounter with these magnificent ghost-while mega pound whales.  The one acre outdoor exhibit features three interconnected pools  with extensive artificial rock work replicating a coastal region of South Central Alaska with underwater channels, caves and special hideaways for the animals to explore and play.  

This state of the art facility features a theater where interactive games are offered using touch screen computer consoles.  I participated, taking control of an undersea creature of my choice to become part of the ocean food web and attempting to reach the top of the ocean food chain.  Competing against other visitors, I got gobbled up before long and came out with an embarrassingly low score.

Swamp Things, one of the aquarium's newest exhibits, had visitors stepping into what feels like a real swamp with nine-foot overhanging trees, vine wrapped tree trunks, Spanish moss and a variety of animals inhabiting the bayou including baby alligators, shovel nose sturgeon, and snapping turtles.  I watched, deciding against participation.  It seemed very realistic with the swamp sounds permeating the air and authentic looking electronic lightening bugs flying overhead.

In addition to the expected glass tanks featuring colorful sea-life and vegetation, the Mystic Aquarium and Institute of Exploration presents  a variety of exhibits which delight and educate onlookers including the Coral Reef Gallery and California Coast exhibits.  Conserving Our Oceans was extremely enlightening, examining the subjects of pollution, habitat destruction and over fishing which impact fisheries and fish populations, providing an understanding of the serious issues facing particular species. 

All exhibits were not only imaginatively designed and visitor friendly, but did a fine job of imparting critical environmental information to its visitors in a most enjoyable manner.

On to my next adventure.  Following a 20 minute drive through the verdant Connecticut countryside, seemingly out of nowhere, a huge Vegas-style structure loomed up.  This was the Foxwoods Resort Casino, what appears to be a virtual gold mine for the Mashantucket Pequot Native Americans.  This gambling hall provided the capital to build one of the most extensive Native American museums in the country.  Five minutes later I arrived at the multi-award winning 85,000 square foot modern structure, a curved glass wall encompassed one side of the structure next to a 185 foot observation tower.  Upon entering the building, which proclaimed this was the Mashantucket Pequot Museum & Research Center, I was immediately riveted to the sight of two oversized canoes seemingly transporting groups of incredibly life-like indigenous men and women of all sizes, shapes and ages, dressed in a variety of native garb, some with colorful face paint, all with differing expressions.  It just got better and better as I explored the state of the art interactive exhibits.

The museum offers 13 films and video programs for visitor viewing.  I chose a chilling film re-creating the massacre and capture of the Mashantucket Pequot tribe with blood curdling realism.  I would not recommended this for the faint of heart.  What every age group is sure to enjoy, however, is the realistic down to every detail, re-creation of a 16th century Pequot coastal village spread over a one half acre exhibit hall.  Wandering from one display to another, I found the narration on my hand held Audio Tour unit provided an additional dimension to the visual images.  The scenes were so realistic, I almost expected the mannequins to come to life.  Throughout the museum I found the realism astounding and the effect startling, sometimes causing me to forget I was in a museum.

Going back even further in time, I stepped on a descending escalator and entered New England during he Ice Age through a simulated glacial crevasse complete with dripping water, chilled air and glacial sounds.

A gallery dedicated to the Arrival of the Europeans in dioramas and exhibits, depicted the coming of the Europeans who arrived on the North American continent and how early contact with them affected the Pequots.

A walk thought the gallery displaying stunning black and white and color photographs illustrating tribal members at work and play was made even more interesting by the oral testimonies of nearly 50 tribal  members on subjects of family, tradition, their past and future.

This facility offers the most comprehensive collection of native American history in the country.  The mission of the Research Library, Children's Library and Archives & Special Collections is devoted to preserving and recalling the cultural heritage of the Mashantucket Pequot Tribal Nation as well as collecting written histories of other Native North Americans. 

All the sightseeing whetted my appetite for some notoriously great New England cuisine.  I ate most of my meals at the Flood Tide restaurant, not only because of its convenience on the property of the Inn at Mystic, but because they serve the finest food in town.  As expected, the menu included the best of New England specialties like freshly caught lobster, clam chowder and succulent crab cakes.  They also prepared the best darn Caesar Salad I have tasted anywhere.  They do it the old fashioned way, tableside with great flourish.  In the relaxed atmosphere of Flood Tide, I enjoyed viewing the open hearth oven where chefs prepared delicious seafood, steaks, chops and game.  Desserts, including some with a touch of flame, were gastronomic masterpieces.

There was so much more to see at the  Pequot Museum, the Mystic Aquarium & Institute for Exploration and the Mystic Seaport -- the Museum of America and the Sea, but I departed from the historic town having gained a greater understanding of our history and national responsibility in addition to enjoying the beauty of the area and its very special attractions.

For information:

Inn at Mystic, offers its guests the use of a swimming pool, boats, canoes, kayaks, tennis court, two putting greens, birding and walking trails and afternoon tea.  AARP members are given a 10% discount  Four different building range in price and amenities making it a good choice for seniors, families and honeymooners.  Special Packages are available throughout the year.
Jct. Route 1 & 27
PO Box 216
Mystic, CT  06355
800/237-2415
860/536-9604
http://www.innatmystic.com

Mystic Seaport
75 Greenmanville Avenue
PO Box 6000
Mystic, CT  06355-0990
http://www.visitmysticseaport.com

Mystic Aquarium & Institute for Exploration
55 Coogan Bl.
Mystic, CT  06355
860/572-5955
http://mysticaquarium.org

Mashantucket Pequot Museum & Research Center
Route 2 & 214
110 Pequot Trail
Mashantucket, CN  06339
800/411-9671
http://www.mashantucket.com

Images 1-10, Valerie Summers
Image 11, Steve Dunwell, Photography, Inc.

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