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Alsace Overview- Part TwoBy Darryl BeesonWines from Alsace come in bottles shaped in a manner to imply sweetness. Some are. Most have a captivating crispness to balance out whatever sweetness is present. often the floral character and the brilliant ripeness of the fruit can be confused with mere sweetness. These wines are overlooked in the market place and deserve more attention, especially for food pairings. Domaine Josmeyer Riesling Hengst "Samain" Grand Cru,
Alsace 2000 The nose is very intense with floral and candied fruit notes, the sip reveals a bone-dry white with big mineral, citrus, fruit and floral intensities. The length is long and elegant. This venerable, family-run Alsace winery was founded in 1854, and is run today by Jean Meyer, chairman and general manager. Under Meyer's direction, Josmeyer is recognized for its large portfolio of wines showcasing the depth and breadth of the quality wines of Alsace. Meyer is also singled out for his flair for pairing food and wine in an unconventional fashion. Domaine Josmeyer Gewurztraminer "Cuvee des Folastris"
Alsace 2001 Aromas of rose petals, ginger, spice, and cashew, then flavors of ripe crenshaw melon, spice, rose/floral, and toasted bread. "I don't believe I have met another winemaker more capable of pinpointing and conveying the subtleties of flavor in wine than owner Jean Meyer," wrote Steve Tanzer in International Wine Cellar. In fact, Meyer readily pairs his wines with virtually any type of cuisine. "When I'm in Japan, I serve Japanese food with my wine. In America, I enjoy American cuisine. I always have a wine to pair, no matter what type of food is served," says Meyer. For more information, go to www.paternowines.com/wines/france/josmeyer. Dom. Schlumberger"Cuvee Anne" Gewurztraminer
Selection de Grains, Alsace 1997 Sauternes beware. This precise nectar of the gods may be one of the finest desert wines in the world. Certainly sweet, surely concentrated and packed with complexities that boggle the mind. A perfect vintage shown perfectly by perfect winemaking expertise. Probably the most famous Alsatian variety, gewurztraminer is native to the North of Italy, and can be traced back as far as the 16th Century. Gewurztraminer (literally spicy Traminer) is a selection of the most aromatic Traminer clones, and became Gewurztraminer around 1950. To learn more, visit www.domaines-schlumberger.com. Hugel "Gentil" white blend, Alsace 2001 "The current white-wine darling of the wine industry is pinot gris and Alsace versions are the gold standard. The riesling can be full-bodied, aromatic, very fruity but quite dry and would serve as a fine replacement for most chardonnays. The 2001 Hugel "Gentil" is a great introduction to the wines of Alsace -- think of it as an Alsace training wine," says Richard Kinssies, a wine writer for The Seattle Post-Intelligencer. Gentil offers a luscious blend of the white wine grapes that put Alsace on the map, though in a quite way since Alsace is ripe for discovery by the general public. Not dry and not overly sweet, this white is a perfect match for Fall and Winter holiday foods. Hugel "Jubilee" Pinot Noir, Alsace 2001 Though Alsace, along France's border near Germany, has a limited reputation for red wine production. This pinot noir competes with other local versions at higher pricing. Alsace basked in an unusual "Indian summer" in the 2001 vintage. The perfect October weather contributed to some very seamless wines. The fruit is not shy and is balanced with crispness. The wines are elegant and true to the fruit. Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine values. In the past, he has been wine steward or cellar master for The Mansion on Turtle Creek, Voltaire, and The Adolphus Hotel. Not one for stuffiness or secret handshakes relative to wine, this Texan might now be described as a "ki-yi-yippee sommelier, sommelier." Beeson reports on wine, spirits, food and travel for numerous publications. |
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