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San Antonio’s Sea Canaries

By Belkis and Rob Kambach

Many Americans visit San Antonio, America’s eighth largest city situated only 150 miles north of the Mexican border, for a chance to sample its rich multi-cultural heritage, celebrate Fiesta and visit the historic Alamo and early missions. Paseo del Rio, a shopping spectacular, and El Mercado, the largest enclosed Mexican-style marketplace in the country, will satisfy the appetites of the most dedicated shoppers. For those more intent in sating their gastronomical appetites, San Antonio also abounds in unforgettable dining delights.

Our trip to San Antonio encompassed the traditional historic, cultural, gourmet and shopping experiences, but we also had an unusual agenda: exploring marine sciences through the behind-the-scenes, private Beluga Interaction Program (BIP). We spent a day falling in love with, touching, feeding and kissing playful white whales.

So, who would imagine that belugas would be contentedly swimming in arid San Antonio? There are many places in North America where you can join dolphins in their depths, but not many locations where you can swim with whales. Most beluga lovers flock to Churchill, Manitoba for the opportunity to meet belugas up close and personal, as every short summer Churchill is the home of a healthy population of belugas. These small, white whales live in frigid Arctic and sub-Arctic waters, but some populations migrate south to warmer water in the summer. They can also be viewed in aquariums and other marine facilities, but the San Antonio’s BIP offers a unique opportunity to come nose to nose with these beautiful sea mammals.

On a clear San Antonio morning, we began our BIP session in classroom-style where Angela, a Sea World educator, explained their beluga research work and fascinating beluga facts. The next hour, however, was the most anticipated event of our trip: We slipped into our wetsuits and into the 60-degree cold water for an unforgettable encounter with three beautiful belugas.

Still on the platform, with adrenaline pumping and cameras ready, Rob and I scanned through the viewfinder, focusing on only one thing: belugas! We saw something directly in front of us standing upright, vertical in the water, then sinking. “Two belugas!” Rob yelled, and it was thrilling. We were then rewarded by seeing the belugas’ pale bellies floating through the water like two ghosts. Another whale surfaced right in front of us. Looking into the eyes of a beluga, you believe you are looking into the eyes of another intelligent being. “I saw her eyes,” I shouted to Rob, and then I jumped into the frigid water. Rob jumped too.

We were now in the midst of a sociable beluga family. The mum Tina, a 1,400-pound lady, breached again, turned sideways and flapped her flippers. Another surfaced behind her – this was Olivia, a four-year-old, and then a third broke the surface, Luna, the baby of the family and two-year-old sister of Olivia. We watched in delight as these three white-to-grayish whales played follow the leader.

They seemed to be jumping underwater hurdles, up and over, up and over. The mum stuck her snout into the air, and we could see the iridescence of her flippers, her white bright skin standing out against the cold blue of the water. Tina fully surfaced and said something that sounded like “Moooo.” Belugas are among the most vocal of the toothed whales and are known as sea canaries for their large repertoire of staccato clicks, moos, squeaks, trills, twitters, barks, chirps, clucks, gurgles, grunts, snorts, mews, whistles and yaps! These “songs” can be heard above and below the surface and can travel for miles underwater. Although humans cannot understand them, other whales can. Belugas also use this echolocation to locate their bottom-dwelling prey, to find breathing holes in the Arctic ice sheet and to navigate in deep, dark waters. Theirs is the most versatile and sophisticated sonar system of any cetacean.

The beluga’s way of vocalizing is also physically distinctive. Its large, bulging forehead (or “melon”) changes shape and size according to the type of sound it emits, similar to a bagpipe when it is being played. Belugas make a variety of facial expressions – often smiling, and this is believed to be another form of communication.

Belugas are friendly, social and curious creatures and allow people to swim among them. We actually went through training exercises with them, learning hand signals to make them sing, dance, retrieve objects or just jump and splash the crowd. Above all we hugged and loved them and got to feed them. Belugas feed mostly on Arctic cod, squid, octopus, fish and crustaceans. However, a very slow and cumbersome swimmer, they often fall prey to polar bears and killer whales. The beluga is also a dinnertime treat for some Eskimos. These sociable whales reach four to five meters in length and can weigh 360 to 400 kg. 

Our guide Christy, an expectant mum herself, shared her personal enthusiasm, experience and knowledge with us to help enrich our encounter with these remarkable creatures. These small cetaceans, although they are technically whales, resemble porpoises in both size and general appearance. Born gray, they turn sugar white at maturity. Gently, Olivia bobbed and rolled beside us, oxygenating her blood before her next dive. Belugas spend at least twenty minutes on the surface between each dive, and they can stay submerged for about two hours at a time.

When I had my one-on-one time with both Tina and Olivia, they luxuriated in all the attention I was more than willing to give. As I guided my hands along Olivia’s melon, it felt so soft and vulnerable that I was afraid I’d hurt her. Belugas have very smooth, hairless rubber-like skin, and since whales are warm-blooded they are covered with very thick layers of fat, or blubber, to keep them warm. As Rob took his turn, I watched with tears in my eyes as their magic captured him also. The trio then gleefully splashed him in the same manner they did with me. I have never ingested so much water in one serving.

We went backstage for our last unforgettable moment — a kissing photo session with them.

This experience rivaled any other thrill or wildlife viewing and satisfied our scientific curiosity. They say you never forget your first beluga sighting, and after spending time with this supremely gentle trio, I now feel a definite kinship and see why the memory remains indelible. The encounter is a combination of heart-pumping adrenaline and a genuine awe of this spectacular sea mammal. The silent way they slide down into the water, there is a genuine sense of loss when they disappear.

This is truly an unforgettable experience for you and your family or friends and offers a unique adventure to add to your visit in San Antonio.

Belkis and Rob Kambach are a husband-and-wife team of travel writer-photographer whose addiction to adventure and love of animals has sent them exploring the more off-beat paths around the world. Pursuing dolphins, manatees, sharks, gators and now belugas around the USA has become their silent obsession. They can be reached at travelwriter@att.net

Before you go

For a free San Antonio visitor information packet, call the San Antonio San Antonio Convention & Visitors Bureau  P.O. Box 2277 San Antonio, Texas 78298-2277  Tel. (210) 207-6700 Toll Free (800) 447-3372  Fax: (210) 207-6782   visitsa@sanantoniovisit.com  http://www.SanAntonioCVB.com   

Endearing Climate

San Antonio's climate is a blended adventure drink of desert, temperate and tropic. Summers are hot (hey, but the margaritas are cold!).

Getting There:

Most major airlines fly to San Antonio International Airport, including Southwest, Delta, American and United.

Staying There:

The Radisson Hill Country Resort 9800 Westover Hills Boulevard San Antonio, TX 78251  Tel: (210) 509-9800   Fax: (210) 509-9814   (800) 333-3333 USA rhi_stex@radisson.com    is the best choice for those going to Sea World.  Amenities at the hotel include an elegantly landscaped courtyard garden, and their full-service spa, fitness centre and pool. The staff is extraordinarily friendly, but so is everybody in Texas. The staff is precise, professional and subdued.

San Antonio’s  Dinning Delights

One needs to forget the word diet here, if you want to really indulge.  Regional Mexican fare and seafood is a must while visiting. Do dine Venice-like on a river boat in the early evening, aboard open-air cruisers as they wind their way along the scenic waterway. Though San Antonio has a variety of restaurants, our recommended restaurants include: Boudro's - A Texas Bistro (author's personal favorite). 421 E. Commerce 78205  (210) 224-8484  marlys@boudros.com   Biga on the Banks 203 S. St. Mary's 78205  (210) 225-0722  perny@biga.com  Italia Ristorante 504 River Walk 78205  (210) 227-5902 italia_ristorante@yahoo.com Guenther House 205 E. Guenther 78204 (210) 227-1061  dvaughan@chguenther.com .  Chili con carne, the state dish of Texas was invented here over a century ago.               

Things to Do:

Best use of a few free hours:

The Beluga Interaction Program Sea World San Antonio, www.SeaWorld.com , 210-523-3611 Ellison Drive and Westover Hills Boulevard. Information: 210/523-3611; Educational Programs: 210/523-3606 or 210/523-3900. Price:  The Beluga Interaction Program is $150 per participant.  Fee includes the 90-minute program and same-day admission to SeaWorld San Antonio. Each participant may bring observers for $45 per person, which also includes same-day park admission. On days when the park is closed, the price is $10 per observer, the same fee for SeaWorld San Antonio passport members at all times.   To participate, guests must be age 8 or older and at least 48 inches tall, and a parent or guardian must accompany those under 18.

The city is perfect for walking. Paseo del Rio better known as the "River Walk," San Antonio's jewel along the San Antonio River sequestered 20 feet below street level, these cobblestone and flagstone paths border both sides of the River Yanaguana Cruises, the river's floating transportation system, provides a novel method of sightseeing and people-watching.  The Alamo 210-225-6490  do a guided tour of with historian Missions National Historic Park, established in the early 1700s the four missions feature a variety of  architectural styles and influences  La Villita climb the stairs of the Arneson River Theater and find yourself in an oasis of picturesque old shops and homes and the site of San Antonio’s original settlement.  El Mercado (the market) here you will find a lively, noisy landmark with shops, eateries, and colorful plazas. Visiting here is like being in Mexico itself.  Majestic Theatre, 210-226-3333 (one of the finest "atmospheric" theatres ever built combining Baroque, Spanish Mission, Greek and Roman motifs) a memorable setting for touring Broadway shows and is the home of the San Antonio Symphony.  Old King William District 210-227-8786 this region was a hotbed of German immigration, and the influence lives on in the Victorian-era mansions of the District, formerly known as "Sauerkraut Bend".

The Annual Event

Fiesta 210-227-5191 San Antonio's major annual event like New Orleans's Mardi Gras a ten-day event in late April and most activities are free. Be prepared for crowds. Make reservations well in advance, and let your hair down to have some fun.

San Antonio for Kids

San Antonio provides the picture-perfect setting for great family vacations, beginning with their children's museum, where kids are encouraged to explore a miniature version of the city. Downtown All-Around Playground at Hemisfair Park and the newly renovated Milam Park (across from Market Square) provide excellent stops for kids to burn off excess energy. And don't' forget the Tower of the Americas, which offers a spectacular view of San Antonio from 579 feet above the ground.  Make sure you get the "San Antonio: A Kid's Guide."

Useful guidebooks:

Frommer's San Antonio and Austin a complete city guide with recommendations on lodging, restaurants, activities  San Antonio on Foot by Diane Capito and Mark Williams   San Antonio Cuisine: A Sampling of Restaurants and Their Recipes by Karen Haram.

Where to browse

http://gotosanantonio.com/gotosa.cfm    http://sanantonio.about.com/citiestowns/southwestus/sanantonio

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