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The Isle of Arran

Scotland in Miniature

By Caroline M. Jackson

My diminutive Scottish granny always told me that good things come in small packages and the Isle of Arran, dubbed ‘Scotland in Miniature’ is no exception.  Studded with craggy mountains, bracken-clad moors, castles and a history as colorful as the kilt, it has come by its name honestly.

When I was a wee girl, our annual summer exodus from Glasgow down the Firth of Clyde to Arran was a major undertaking complete with cabin trunks, bicycles, flasks of hot tea and enough egg-and-cress rolls to feed a Highland regiment. The entire journey took half a day. Nowadays the train and ferry trip takes less than two hours.

After boarding our ferry the “Caledonian Isles” at the Ardrossan terminal, an eclectic bunch of day trippers gathered on the upstairs deck to watch the Ayrshire coastline slowly disappear in a misty haze.  Feeling the chill wind cutting through my Shetland sweater, I headed below deck where I gingerly picked my way through a forest of golf bags, fishing rods, tripods and bulky rucksacks. The only spare seat was beside a weather-beaten shepherd and his high-strung black and white collies. Standing beside me was a covey of dog-collared Presbyterian ‘men of the cloth’. They were on their way to visit Holy Isle which once Christian, is now a Buddhist retreat.

One by one I noticed people heading towards the outside decks. It was time to check out the scenery as we neared Arran. It was a splendid sight. The Island’s highest mountain, Goat Fell (873 meters) hove into view.  Swathes of bracken-clad hills fell away from its rock-strewn flanks and merged with the coastal woodlands. Many years ago, my parents had met in the mists atop this mountain. It was so clammy that my mother’s waist-length tresses hung like a wavy curtain but a romance that was to last a lifetime was not to be dampened.

The heavy bulk of our Caledonian MacBrayne ferry chugged its way towards the brick-red sands of Brodick so named from the Old Norse word meaning ‘broad bay’. As we docked at the pier, upturned faces filled with expectancy searched the rails for expected visitors. Ropes were affixed to hawsers by sturdy Scots who sported navy T-shirts with Cal-Mac emblazoned on the front. The Royal Mail van stood at the ready to collect parcels from the mainland.

Adjacent to the pier is the modern Tourist Information Center which has a plethora of information for the neophyte visitor. Top of my sightseeing list was a visit to Brodick Castle and Country Park which has a stormy history stretching back to the 13th century. Once the home of the Dukes of Hamilton, it is now owned by the National Trust for Scotland and is a treasure house of porcelain and silverware. It also boasts several works of art by Gainsborough and Turner.  The visitor center at the entrance depicts life during the era when the Dukes of Hamilton owned most of Arran and their country home was one of the most renowned sporting estates in Britain. The Duke had over 70 people on his staff: grooms to look after the ponies; carters to maintain estate tracks; fencers to ensure the fences were rabbit proof; gamekeepers to take care of the gun dogs and shooting lodges; and a boatman to provide seafood for the banquets. After touring the castle interior, I took a leisurely stroll through the lovely 65-acre woodland garden. The trail led me through bluebell meadows, alongside pastures grazed by healthy looking Highland cattle and eventually to the Hamilton family cemetery. After all this bracing sea air, I rounded off my visit with a scone in the terrace tearoom which overlooks the lovely walled garden.

For a glimpse of local history, I spent an hour or so at the nearby Heritage Museum which is situated in an 18th century croft farm. To turn the clock back even further, visitors can drive to the west side of the island and walk to the Bronze Age stone circles at Machrie Moor which are evocative of Stonehenge.  In other parts of the island, there are many burial chambers left behind by Neolithic and bronze-age people.

A highlight for all ages is an afternoon visit to South Bank Farm to watch sheep dog demonstrations.  Afterwards you can drop into the Torrylinn Creamery to buy some Arran cheese. Local fare includes blue goat’s milk cheese called “Glenshant”, Island cream with oatmeal and Brodick blue.

Arran is a popular destination for hill walkers and climbers. Springy purple heather carpets much of the moorlands and fresh green bracken offers a hiding place for brown hares and rabbits. Black-faced sheep dot the fields and for hikers, there are many wooden stiles to be crossed. Favorite routes include Glen Rosa, Glen Sannox, Cir Mhor and Holy Isle. Sports aficionados will want to try some fishing and play a round of golf on one of the many challenging courses.

For a picturesque daytrip, take a bus, drive or cycle round the island’s 100 km of coastline. Dotted around the perimeter are many unspoiled seaside villages – perfect spots  to enjoy afternoon tea or visit craft stores which display local paintings, pottery, jewellery and wood carvings. There’s Kildonan with its seal rocks; the sheltered village of Lagg renowned for its palm trees;  Blackwaterfoot with its popular golf course; Lochranza with its 14thC. ruined castle made famous by Sir Walter Scott’s epic poem ‘Lord of the Isles’ written in 1814.

On my final evening while travelling along Arran’s most northerly road, I spotted some movement on the hillsides – a herd of magnificent red deer who, having caught my scent, ascended to the highest ridge. My last memory of Arran was watching a row of moving antlers outlined against a dimming sky. It is a sight I will never forget.

Travel tips:

In the summer, the midges can be troublesome so bring insect repellant.

Attire: good walking shoes and rain gear.

Arran adventures: http://www.arranadventure.com

National Trust: http://www.nts.org.uk

Information: Visit Britain: 1-888-VISIT UK http://www.visitbritain.com

Images by Hamish M. Jackson
Email: crestlyn@axionet.com
Web: http://www.axion.net/crestlynn

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