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The Isle of Arran
Scotland in
Miniature
By Caroline
M. Jackson
My diminutive Scottish
granny always told me that good things come in small packages and the Isle
of Arran, dubbed ‘Scotland in Miniature’ is no exception. Studded with
craggy mountains, bracken-clad moors, castles and a history as colorful as
the kilt, it has come by its name honestly.
When I was a wee girl,
our annual summer exodus from Glasgow down the Firth of Clyde to Arran was a
major undertaking complete with cabin trunks, bicycles, flasks of hot tea
and enough egg-and-cress rolls to feed a Highland regiment. The entire
journey took half a day. Nowadays the train and ferry trip takes less than
two hours.
After boarding our ferry the “Caledonian Isles”
at the Ardrossan terminal, an eclectic bunch of day trippers gathered on the
upstairs deck to watch the Ayrshire coastline slowly disappear in a misty
haze. Feeling the chill wind cutting through my Shetland sweater, I
headed below deck where I gingerly picked my way through a forest of golf
bags, fishing rods, tripods and bulky rucksacks. The only spare seat was
beside a weather-beaten shepherd and his
high-strung black and
white collies. Standing beside me was a covey of dog-collared Presbyterian ‘men
of the cloth’. They were on their way to visit Holy Isle which once
Christian, is now a Buddhist retreat.
One by one I noticed people heading towards the
outside decks. It was time to check out the scenery as we neared Arran. It
was a splendid sight. The Island’s highest mountain, Goat Fell (873 meters)
hove into view. Swathes of bracken-clad hills fell away from its
rock-strewn flanks and merged with the coastal woodlands. Many years ago, my
parents had met in the mists atop this mountain. It was so clammy that my
mother’s waist-length tresses hung like a wavy curtain but a romance that
was to last a lifetime was not to be dampened.
The heavy bulk of our
Caledonian MacBrayne ferry chugged its way towards the brick-red sands of
Brodick so named from the Old Norse word meaning ‘broad bay’. As we docked
at the pier, upturned faces filled with expectancy searched the rails for
expected visitors. Ropes were affixed to hawsers by sturdy Scots who sported
navy T-shirts with Cal-Mac emblazoned on the front. The Royal Mail van stood
at the ready to collect parcels from the mainland.
Adjacent to the pier is
the modern Tourist Information Center which has a plethora of information
for the neophyte visitor. Top of my sightseeing list was a visit to Brodick
Castle and Country Park which has a stormy history stretching back to the 13th
century. Once the home of the Dukes of Hamilton, it is now owned by the
National Trust for Scotland and is a treasure house of porcelain and
silverware. It also boasts several works of art by Gainsborough and Turner.
The visitor center at the entrance depicts life during the era when the
Dukes of Hamilton owned most of Arran and their country home was one of the
most renowned sporting estates in Britain. The Duke had over 70 people on
his staff: grooms to look after the ponies; carters to maintain estate
tracks; fencers to ensure the fences were rabbit proof; gamekeepers to take
care of the gun dogs and shooting lodges; and a boatman to provide seafood
for the banquets. After touring the castle interior, I took a leisurely
stroll through the lovely 65-acre woodland garden. The trail led me through
bluebell meadows, alongside pastures grazed by healthy looking Highland
cattle and eventually to the Hamilton family cemetery. After all this
bracing sea air, I rounded off my visit with a scone in the terrace tearoom
which overlooks the lovely walled garden.
For a glimpse of local
history, I spent an hour or so at the nearby Heritage Museum which is
situated in an 18th century croft farm. To turn the clock back
even further, visitors can drive to the west side of the island and walk to
the Bronze Age stone circles at Machrie Moor which are evocative of
Stonehenge.
In other parts of the island, there are many burial chambers left behind by
Neolithic and bronze-age people.
A highlight for all
ages is an afternoon visit to South Bank Farm to watch sheep dog
demonstrations.
Afterwards you can drop into the Torrylinn Creamery to buy some Arran
cheese. Local fare includes blue goat’s milk cheese called “Glenshant”,
Island cream with oatmeal and Brodick blue.
Arran is a popular
destination for hill walkers and climbers. Springy purple heather carpets
much of the moorlands and fresh green bracken offers a hiding place for
brown hares and rabbits. Black-faced sheep dot the fields and for hikers,
there are many wooden stiles to be crossed. Favorite routes include Glen
Rosa, Glen Sannox, Cir Mhor and Holy Isle. Sports aficionados will want to
try some fishing and play a round of golf on one of the many challenging
courses.
For a picturesque
daytrip, take a bus, drive or cycle round the island’s 100 km of coastline.
Dotted around the perimeter are many unspoiled seaside villages – perfect
spots to enjoy afternoon tea or visit craft stores which display local
paintings, pottery, jewellery and wood carvings. There’s Kildonan with its
seal rocks; the sheltered village of Lagg renowned for its palm trees; Blackwaterfoot with its
popular golf course; Lochranza with its 14thC. ruined castle made famous by
Sir Walter Scott’s epic poem ‘Lord of the Isles’ written in 1814.
On my final evening
while travelling along Arran’s most northerly road, I spotted some movement
on the hillsides – a herd of magnificent red deer who, having caught my
scent, ascended to the highest ridge. My last memory of Arran was watching a
row of moving antlers outlined against a dimming sky. It is a sight I will
never forget.
Travel tips:
In the summer, the
midges can be troublesome so bring insect repellant.
Attire: good walking
shoes and rain gear.
Arran adventures:
http://www.arranadventure.com
National Trust:
http://www.nts.org.uk
Information: Visit
Britain: 1-888-VISIT UK
http://www.visitbritain.com
Images by Hamish M.
Jackson
Email:
crestlyn@axionet.com
Web:
http://www.axion.net/crestlynn
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