Mention the towns of Ascona, Bellinzona, Locarno or
Lugano and many people will naturally presume you are talking about Italy.
In fact all of these places are part of Ticino (pronounced Ticheeno), a
southern Swiss canton which encompasses the northern shores of Lake Maggiore,
and Lake Lugano. Snuggled between curvaceous hills, the climate is balmy.
Palm trees line the lakefronts while pink camellias, lemon mimosas and
purple bougainvillea spill from hillside loggias.
To reach this idyllic part of Switzerland, we took a
three-hour train journey south from Zurich through breathtaking Alpine
scenery. At one point the train looped through so many tunnels that we saw
the same onion-domed church from three different levels. We knew we had
entered the Ticino region when the medieval fortified castles of Bellinzona
loomed on both sides of the train. These fortifications built by the Dukes
of Milan who ruled northern Italy have stood sentinel over the entrance to
the Saint Gotthard and San Bernardino passes for many centuries. Once
Italian, the area became Swiss in 1512 and today Bellinzona is the regional
capital.
Arriving in busy Lugano station was at first a little
disconcerting as most people spoke Italian (8% of the Swiss are
Italian-speaking). However, the Ticinese are friendly and after many
gesticulations we were directed to our hotel which we had located through
the Internet.
Using our Swiss Pass, we took the funicular railway
down a steep incline to the busy pedestrian-only old town. By now it was
lunchtime. The Mediterranean sun was intense and the cobblestone streets
made it difficult for us to rattle along with our small-wheeled suitcases.
However, there’s always an angel in every city and a charming businessman in
a pinstriped suit spoke perfect English and directed us to the modest Hotel
Zurigo. After a quick shower in our tiny abode, we walked through the
piazzas towards the turquoise waters of Lake Lugano. A wide promenade skirts
the lakefront and the bay is shouldered by two wooded mountains: Mount San
Salvatore (900 m.) and Mount Bre (933 m). Both were no doubt instrumental in
giving Lugano the nickname of Rio of the Old World. A refreshing breeze
blows off the lake causing fountains to spray water over bystanders. There
are pedestrian crossings but remember this ribbon of road is popular with
the young set who want to show off their latest set of wheels – an Alfa
Romeo, Ferrari or Lamborghini. Others drive Vespas at the speed and noise of
angry hornets. To absorb the atmosphere, we bought a Gelato from a vendor
and sauntered along to the waterfront Parco Civico (Town Park). Lake
cruises were leaving from the Imbarcadero Centrale so, again flashing our
trusty Swiss Pass, we boarded a boat for the picturesque historic village of
Gandria. Once a fishing village, this sleepy little town is an artist’s
paradise. Stepped passageways and cobblestone alleys wend between
ochre-colored houses and lead up to a little Baroque church. Green shutters
keep out the sun while passion flowers and wisteria cascade from
mold-encrusted terra cotta pots.
Our next port of call was the 150-year old “Smuggler’s
Museum” which if you lean too far back, puts you in Italy. Located in a
former Swiss Customs Post complete with living quarters, the museum explains
the role, past and present, of the beret-wearing frontier police and the
perilous role they played during WWII. The Museum’s romantic history of
clandestine trade is exhibited on several floors. At the entrance a car is
riddled with hiding places for drugs, weapons, gold, forged passports and
credit cards. A video shows police locating contraband by using a surgical
endoscope.
Our last lakeside call was a visit to Swissminiatur at
Melide. This is a great place for the young at heart – a detailed model of
the architectural highlights of Switzerland built in stone to a scale of
1:25. Highlights include Chateau Chillon, Bern’s Parliament buildings and
the medieval town of Murten all linked by perfectly synchronized trains,
boats and cable cars. This is an ideal place to ponder on familiar sites and
plan for new destinations.
On our return to Lugano, the lively piazzas were awash
with diners who were eating alfresco under colorful umbrellas. Afterwards,
we meandered along the narrow arcaded streets before joining a public
open-air concert under the stars.
TM
Mention the towns of Ascona, Bellinzona, Locarno or
Lugano and many people will naturally presume you are talking about Italy.
In fact all of these places are part of Ticino (pronounced Ticheeno), a
southern Swiss canton which encompasses the northern shores of Lake Maggiore,
and Lake Lugano. Snuggled between curvaceous hills, the climate is balmy.
Palm trees line the lakefronts while pink camellias, lemon mimosas and
purple bougainvillea spill from hillside loggias. 
To reach this idyllic part of Switzerland, we took a
three-hour train journey south from Zurich through breathtaking Alpine
scenery. At one point the train looped through so many tunnels that we saw
the same onion-domed church from three different levels. We knew we had
entered the Ticino region when the medieval fortified castles of Bellinzona
loomed on both sides of the train. These fortifications built by the Dukes
of Milan who ruled northern Italy have stood sentinel over the entrance to
the Saint Gotthard and San Bernardino passes for many centuries. Once
Italian, the area became Swiss in 1512 and today Bellinzona is the regional
capital.
Arriving in busy Lugano station was at first a little
disconcerting as most people spoke Italian (8% of the Swiss are
Italian-speaking). However, the Ticinese are friendly and after many
gesticulations we were directed to our hotel which we had located through
the Internet.
Using our Swiss Pass, we took the funicular railway
down a steep incline to the busy pedestrian-only old town. By now it was
lunchtime. The Mediterranean sun was intense and the cobblestone streets
made it difficult for us to rattle along with our small-wheeled suitcases.
However, there’s always an angel in every city and a charming businessman in
a pinstriped suit spoke perfect English and directed us to the modest Hotel
Zurigo. After a quick shower in our tiny abode, we walked through the
piazzas towards the turquoise waters of Lake Lugano. A wide promenade skirts
the lakefront and the bay is shouldered by two wooded mountains: Mount San
Salvatore (900 m.) and Mount Bre (933 m). Both were no doubt instrumental in
giving Lugano the nickname of Rio of the Old World. A refreshing breeze
blows off the lake causing fountains to spray water over bystanders. There
are pedestrian crossings but remember this ribbon of road is popular with
the young set who want to show off their latest set of wheels – an Alfa
Romeo, Ferrari or Lamborghini. Others drive Vespas at the speed and noise of
angry hornets. To absorb the atmosphere, we bought a Gelato from a vendor
and sauntered along to the waterfront Parco Civico (Town Park). Lake
cruises were leaving from the Imbarcadero Centrale so, again flashing our
trusty Swiss Pass, we boarded a boat for the picturesque historic village of
Gandria. Once a fishing village, this sleepy little town is an artist’s
paradise. Stepped passageways and cobblestone alleys wend between
ochre-colored houses and lead up to a little Baroque church. Green shutters
keep out the sun while passion flowers and wisteria cascade from
mold-encrusted terra cotta pots.
Our next port of call was the 150-year old “Smuggler’s
Museum” which if you lean too far back, puts you in Italy. Located in a
former Swiss Customs Post complete with living quarters, the museum explains
the role, past and present, of the beret-wearing frontier police and the
perilous role they played during WWII. The Museum’s romantic history of
clandestine trade is exhibited on several floors. At the entrance a car is
riddled with hiding places for drugs, weapons, gold, forged passports and
credit cards. A video shows police locating contraband by using a surgical
endoscope.
Our last lakeside call was a visit to Swissminiatur at
Melide. This is a great place for the young at heart – a detailed model of
the architectural highlights of Switzerland built in stone to a scale of
1:25. Highlights include Chateau Chillon, Bern’s Parliament buildings and
the medieval town of Murten all linked by perfectly synchronized trains,
boats and cable cars. This is an ideal place to ponder on familiar sites and
plan for new destinations. 
On our return to Lugano, the lively piazzas were awash
with diners who were eating alfresco under colorful umbrellas. Afterwards,
we meandered along the narrow arcaded streets before joining a public
open-air concert under the stars.