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Venerable KyotoExploring Japan’s Most Revered CityBy Rick Millikan
In Japan’s ancient capital, Kyoto Gosho was a “must see”. Originally built in 794, the Imperial Palace was destroyed several times by fire and last reconstructed in 1855. Stately ceremonies are still held there, which includes the enthronement of new emperors. After registering at nearby Imperial Household Agency, we joined an English tour and entered the high walled complex through Odaidokoro-gomon, the service gate. This elegant residence, as much a shrine as a palace, befitted the Mikato, emperor and Shinto god.
Upon entering the empress’ residence, our guide continued, “Kemari, a Japanese style football was played in the nearby courtyard of the Ogakumon-jo, the study hall. Court ladies could not participate in physical sports, but here in her beautiful garden women would win extra cups of sake for clever conversation.”
Ginkaku-ji’s simple, graceful symmetry reflects upon a pond below. The veranda looks out onto centuries old gardens designed to instill a foretaste of paradise. The adjoining Zen garden, raked daily into a sea of silver sand, has a three-meter high sand cone resembling Mt. Fuji. This cone has long been believed to reflect divine light into the visitors’ hearts. Beyond this rocky landscape extends a lush ground cover of highly prized mosses. Sculpted pines surround flourishing red and pink camellias. A path led us across a granite bridge into a fragrant area of purple plum and white cherry blossoms. For centuries stone lanterns had lit this pathway to several small shrines and the ancient spring, where crystal clear water was drawn for tea ceremonies. Togu-do, the site’s oldest structure houses the first known Japanese tearoom (Dojin-sai) as well as a Yoshimasa’s self-carved statue. Upon leaving Ginkaku-ji, we considered the gilded bronze phoenix perched atop its swooping black tiled roof. The phoenix aptly symbolized Yashimasa’s nobility and longing for peace.
On one magical evening, we strolled through the Gion, a famous entertainment and geisha district on the eastern bank of Komo-gawa. Pink paper lanterns brightened its narrow quiet streets. Geishas and Maiko, still entertaining in its 17th century teahouses and restaurants, are sometimes sighted in ornate floral kimonos and enchanting white face make up. On establishments’ burnished wood panels colorful posters advertised the nearby Kabuki Theater; only simple black and white kanji identified Gion’s businesses on curtains and lanterns. Symmetrical dark lattices accentuating fences, doors and windows added to an aura of mystery.
If you have time to experience only one city in Japan, choose Kyoto. Beauty, fascination and understanding abound in venerable Kyoto. Steeped in a revered past, Kyoto presents unequaled insights into Japan’s remarkable culture. Japan Airlines For comfortable & inexpensive travel within Japan: Japan’s National Tourist Organization Offers general info at www.jnto.go.jp Photo Credit-Chris Millikan |
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Staying at a Kyoto Ryokan, originally home to a wealthy
merchant in the Shogun’s service, our family immersed itself into Japanese
culture and enlightenment. This classic Inn featured an original exterior
constructed of 300-year-old native timber, a fine Japanese garden and most
importantly, traditional services. There my days began with body
cleansing, soul relaxing Japanese baths and soaks. After our futons were
removed from the tatami mats and stored, a kimono clad maid served breakfast
on a customary low-set table. Dressed in yukatas, we savored varieties of
Miso soup, pickled vegetables, fish, tofu, seaweed and rice. We then set out
to explore historic Kyoto. 
Through still another heavy red gate across the raked
gravel courtyard stood the colossal Ceremonial Hall. Our ardent guide
launched into her lively discourse. “This impressive facility presented
problems. Each day five men were required to lift up these sliding doors,
each weighing over 100 kilograms. During the winter the Hall benefited from
this added light and airiness, but became very cold. Courtesans often
layered themselves in two or three kimonos.” At the Waiting Hall, she
depicted the imperial procedures. “…Petitioners were directed according to
their social status to these paneled rooms. Later these petitioners would
enter a long corridor here, tap their feet, then be escorted for an audience
with the Mikato, who sat invisible behind this ornate screen.”
After visiting several of Kyoto’s thirteen World
Heritage Buddhist temples, Ginkaku-ji proved most memorable. Ashikaga
Yoshimasa built the “Silver Pavilion” in 1482 as a retreat from a raging
civil war. Before covering his two-storied villa with silver, the Shogun
died. Bestowed to a Buddhist sect, it became known as the Silver Temple.
Returning from our daily jaunts, the Ryokan staff
greeted us with “Konichiwa!” and exchanged our shoes for house slippers. We
then padded off to our room. Soon our maid served us green tea and regional
sweets. Refreshed, we planned our evening’s entertainment. 
Walking to the edge of the Gion, we encountered a
familiar pair of snarling stone dogs. “Um” and “Ah” guarded the prominent
orange and white gate to Yasaka-jinja. After climbing a long stairway, we
ambled along a path passing several small shrines set among the evergreens.
Suddenly, in the midst of hundreds of brightly-lit red lanterns, we entered
this renowned Shinto site’s courtyard. At the main shrine, worshippers
loudly clapped their hands and pulled long braided ropes to ring bells to
alert the gods to their appeals. Prayers were written, folded and tied upon
a cherry tree’s blossoming branch. We returned to the Ryokan that evening
and every evening with a greater understanding and appreciation for Japanese
culture.