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Vivid Brazilian Colors, Sounds And Tastes In Romantic Seaside ParatyBy Larry Bridwell
The resort dimension of Paraty is reflected in a colorful street booth that served tropical versions of the national alcoholic drink, capirina, mixed with mango, passion fruit, and papaya. Sophisticated stores provide quality clothes, paintings and folk art, and pedestrians amble casually over cobble-stone streets from which cars are forbidden.
Paraty offers a buffet of serene peasant experiences with modern artistic flair, but my most vivid memory is the soothing harp music played in the street at night. One evening, I heard a soft bossa nova, “Eu Sei Que Vou Te Amar,” by poet Vinicius de Morais, who wrote “Girl from Ipanema.” The words say: “I know I will love you for my whole life…And each time I say good-bye, I will love you desperately….And each poet of mine will tell you I will love you and each time I say good-bye, I will cry.” The song captures Paraty’s special evening romance. Hotel Pousada de Sandi Images by Larry Bridwell; hotel room image by Hotel Pousada de Sandi. |
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The
famous French artist, Henri Matisse, did much of his painting along the
Mediterranean Sea and described the purpose of his art as “purity and
serenity…a soothing calming influence on the mind, something like a good
armchair which provides relaxation from physical fatigue.” Matisse would
have appreciated the Brazilian seaside village of Paraty, a relaxing feast
for the human senses, with soothing sounds, exquisite food, earthy wines and
stunning island scenery. The French sensibility of Paraty is reflected by
the fact that 80% of the foreign visitors to Paraty, a three-hour drive
south of Rio de Janeiro, are French.
Matisse’s
paintings are most famous for the resplendence and immediacy of his color.
Such vibrant color schemes are exemplified in the Hotel Pousada de Sandi,
especially in its lobby and gardens. Even its guest rooms are highlighted
with vivid bed spreads. The soothing sounds of Paraty come into the hotel
via its open windows. With my room bathed in fresh sea air, I fell asleep to
exquisite harp and flute music played by street musicians. In the morning, I
awoke to softly chirping birds.
Paraty
also delights the sense of taste. Following the worldwide food sensation of
nouvelle cuisine, for which France and California have developed strong
reputations, there is now also Brazilian nouvelle cuisine, which features
local fruits, vegetables and spices. At Restaurante Chaperiz, the mashed
potatoes, rice, chicken parmigian and the local fish had a taste with light
Brazilian spices deliciously different from American or European cuisine.
European wines are available, but the major Brazilian wines have benefited
from recent agricultural investments and are quite good, yet inexpensive. A
bottle of Miolo Branco ($10) with its rustic oak taste experienced during
the afternoon breeze created a multi-sensual experience. Later that evening
at the Porto Restaurant, I had an exquisite Crème de Papaya dessert
combining rich cream, delicious fruit, and a generous splash of Brazilian
liqueur.
One
of the advantages of visiting historic Brazilian resorts such as
16th-century Paraty, and the United Nations World Heritage sites of Ouro
Preto and Salvador is that industrial modernization has not yet fully
homogenized the charming peasant ambience. Paraty still has several working
horse-driven carts. One sees people of all ages going about their daily
routines, including boys playing soccer in the main square next to a
historic church.
In
addition to normal seaside activities, Paraty has 228 annual religious and
cultural events, including the two-year-old “Festa Literaria Internacional
de Parati.” This worldwide festival of prominent writers was founded by
British publisher Liz Calder who has a house overlooking the Paraty island.
Seminar participants have included English language authors, Margaret
Atwood, Martin Amis and Colm Toibin as well as Portuguese language authors
Moacyr Scliar, Lygia Fagundes and Jose Eduardo Agualusa.
Near
Paraty are several islands easily reached by small boats. The owner of the
boat I chose placed comfortable pads on the top of the roof, providing
privacy as well as beautiful views of lush islands and forests. (The
90-minute ride costs $20.)