Diving the South China Sea - in Pulau Redang Malaysia

By Jamie Ross

Like an apparition, the Black-Tip shark appeared out of the haze ahead of me, and slowly propelled itself across the sandy ocean bottom to my right, disappearing again into the murky water. I stared after it, wondering if I had really seen the shark, or perhaps had only imagined it - the magical and mystical experience of diving in the South China Sea can play such tricks. I only needed to turn my gaze back upon my wide-eyed dive mates, however, to know the five foot shark was real.

We spied the shark just moments after descending the 60 feet to the sea floor at Batu Mak Chantek, off the Island of Pulau Redang. Seconds later, a female Green Sea turtle paddled elegantly past. She was followed by a school of some fifty or so barracuda, who hovered inquisitively only metres away, before going on about their business. The warm sea waters off this Malaysian island paradise have a reputation amongst divers for their fascinating variety of marine life. This, however, was an unexpectedly wonderful start to an interesting two days of diving.

Dotting the South China Sea 45 kilometres off the long Terengganu coastline of the Malaysian peninsula, Pulau Redang and its neighbouring islands, Pulau Pinang, Pulau Lima, Pulau Ekor Tebu, Pulau Lang Tengah, Pulau Perhentian Besar, Pulau Perhentian Kecil, Pulau Susu Dara, and Pulau Kapas, were officially declared a Marine National Park in 1991. For a long time before that, these islands were a secret of divers, but, of course, the inevitable happened, word got out, and the exclusive resorts followed.

The park status is an attempt to preserve the wonders that are found here, and to reverse some of the damage wrought by resort construction and over fishing. No fishing is allowed within a 3.2 kilometre radius of the island, and permanent moorings have been placed around the islands to reduce harm caused by anchors. Snorkelling is restricted to certain areas, and the Malaysian Department of Fisheries is even busy building artificial reefs.

While the visibility in these waters is generally excellent, extending up to 30 metres in fine weather conditions, a combination of tides and an overnight rain storm have stirred up the sea floor and left our small dive group with disappointing visibility for our dives. I also hear the theory that the calm seas and long periods of sunshine, which are characteristic here in April and May, occasionally produce rich blooms of plankton which limit visibility. I must say, I prefer the sun and flat seas, and the cloudy water only serves to give a kind of surreal quality to the marine life that wonders in and out of the haze.

Coral Fish, Jacks, Yellowtail, Giant Clams, Trigger Fish, Puffers, Spotted Porcupine Fish, Blue and Yellow Fusiliers, Pencil Fish, and huge Lion Fish are some of the many varieties of marine life that we see in this underwater seascape. Thousands of tiny silver Cardinal Fish dart about in an amazing display of synchronicity. We run into two more sharks, Reef Sharks this time, as we make our way back to the dive boat.

In the morning of our second day on Redang, we dive off the rugged shoreline of Pulau Kerengga Besar, a steep volcanic island that rises sharply out of the sea, clothed in a thick green blanket.  It reminds me of an island home for some sinister madman in a James Bond adventure. In the equally rugged jungle reef beneath the sea, we see a number of Sting Rays resting on the ocean bottom or winging gracefully past, and Manta Rays hovering overhead. In the afternoon, after a quick bite and some frolicking in the tub-warm waters of a picturesque bay, we return 60 feet to the sea floor to scour the colourful coral at Batu Che Isa. We search carefully in the cracks and crevasses for the Moray Eel that are supposedly plentiful, but here, finally, we strike out.

Even in the less than ideal visibility, the unspoilt table coral formations are spectacular; the hydrozoans, anthozoans, Brain Corral, sea fans, sea whips, and sea cucumbers are found in abundance. Adding to the pallet of colour are the Gorgonian Fan Coral, Monastreau Coral, and the beautiful and delicate Nutribranch Croustades, which lie half-buried on the sandy bottom, looking like exquisitely decorated Easter eggs. Our dive master, Razi, gets very excited and animated when finding these.

Visitors to Pulau Redang have a choice of accommodation facilities ranging from budget to international standard hotels. The premier property on the island is the 152-room Berjaya Redang Beach Resort, set in the idyllic setting of powder white beaches, turquoise waters, windswept palms, and tropical rainforest. Stone bridges arch over the refreshing outdoor pool. A kids’ pool and games room keep the younger set happy, and a spa and outdoor thatched-roof bar are the perfect place for the adults to relax after a day of diving.

The resort’s dive centre offers courses for both amateur and advanced divers, and all the equipment needed for the various underwater excursions. Five star courses are available for PADI, and an educational “Discover Scuba” program is offered for those without a license, to experience shallow dives in the resort pool and on the house reef.

Harniezam Nahar, the Sports and Recreation Manager at the resort, tells me that there are ten dive operators on Pulau Redang, with Berjaya being the oldest, operating since 1997. Beyond the varied and spectacular marine life, the attraction of the island for divers comes in the diversity of underwater landscapes that are available in the 32 surrounding dive sites. All of the sites allow a consistent depth of around 60 feet, although they can also customize dives for more experienced divers, with night dives, drift dives, and wall dives available. The waters around Pulau Redang also contain two historic shipwrecks, the H.M.S. Prince of Wales and H.M.S. Repulse were sunk here at the start of World War II by the Japanese.

Although I found the rental equipment to be somewhat old and worn - and would suggest that divers bring their own, Nahar promised all new Scuba Pro equipment would be arriving in summer 2004. There are also plans underway to expand the dive centre towards the beautiful beach, and to add a dive bar, a central location where divers can gather after their day underwater.

If you feel more comfortable with snorkel and mask rather than with tanks and regulator, the island also offers many splendid snorkelling possibilities, from the shore or by boat into the marine park. And, if you like to combine your underwater adventure vacation with a cultural holiday, Malaysia should be on the top of your list. The warmth of the locals, the endless tastes of the food, the temples, palaces, markets, and spectacular sites make it difficult to spend all your time underwater.