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Ride, Recreate & Relax -- in Luxurious ComfortAt Rancho de los Caballeros in Wickenburg, ArizonaBy Naomi K. Shapiro
In this version, you get to ride, rope, round up, relish redolent repasts; and, really important -- retire to your luxurious room to rest and get ready for the next day's recreation: Golf, horseback riding, jeep touring, trap shooting, nature, hiking, birdwatching, and dozens of other activities offered at Rancho de Los Caballeros (RLC), a historic guest ranch and golf club in Wickenburg, Arizona. Located in the midst of the Sonoran Desert about 45 miles north of Phoenix, RLC is entering its 57th year of operation, preserving traditional ranch values, while allowing the latest in conveniences and comforts for its guests. Open from October through May, the Ranch hosts vacationers, families, and conference-goers, as well as participants in packages like "Spikes & Spurs", art workshops, "Giddy-Up Gals," or "The Sun C Special" (Sun C has been the Ranch brand from the beginning) -- all with an American Plan that leaves others in the dust. Founded by a group of local families in the late '40s, and visited by many "rich and famous" over the years, RLC is now solely owned by one of that original group, the Gant family. "Our goal is to offer a supremely comfortable, family vacation or conference getaway while insuring that our guests learn and experience the workings of a ranch, the fascinating history of the area, and the hidden gems of nature, says General manager, Dallas ("Rusty") Gant Jr. "We've got all the conveniences of the outside world, except the hassles," he smiles. RLC's sprawling main lodge and outlying accommodations have been scrupulously maintained in their historical Southwestern motifs. In addition to its perfectly-maintained grounds, RLC has one of the finest 18-hole championship golf courses in the Southwest, open year-round. A well-placed and unobtrusive home development borders the course for those wishing their own "desert paradise". Upon my arrival at RLC last January, the desert fragrance, sounds of chirping birds, and scenic views filled my senses. All thoughts of snow, ice, work, and responsibilities back in Wisconsin melted away immediately.
Although I was alone on this trip, a separate dressing room/closet and double-vanity bathroom sinks offered great convenience. The oversized bed with its marvelous "another-era" comforter was turned down by invisible hands every evening. Fluffy towels were constantly replaced without ever seeing anyone come or go. A full-page calendar and list of events, printed front and back on two oversized sheets of paper listed just some of the activities available at RLC: Hassayampa River Preserve Tour; Desert Jeep Tour; Trap and skeet shooting; Hot air balloon ride; Birdwatching; Nature ride; Haywagon Dinner Cookout; Team penning; Rodeo; Armchair Nature Hike.. just about any activity or outing you could imagine. You can also walk, jog, bike, or skooter; get a Swedish Massage; enjoy Western movie night; nightly entertainment in the Ranch Lounge, and so much more. Since I had specifically come to RLC for the horse-related opportunities, I immediately signed up for the nature trail ride with ranch naturalist, Dick Fredrickson. On this ride, we wound through a diverse terrain of lowland and hillsides, offering many mountain vistas. Huge saguaro cacti stood as sentinels along the trail. The plant and animal life of the Sonoran desert is so diverse, and extremely fascinating. We saw lots of quail, several bird species, mule deer and coyotes on our ride. Dick explained that each plant and cactus has its own "defense mechanism" to survive the harsh climate or to prevent it from being eaten. Either it has thorns, tastes bad, has a noxious smell -- or a combination. Most also have practical, medicinal, or food uses, such as the creosote plant, saguaro, barrel, and prickly pear cactuses, kerosene broom, jojoba, and soap plant. The two-hour trail ride ended all too soon. Jeep Tour
Glenn, our driver, storyteller, lifelong resident of the area, and character, drove us through downtown Wickenburg, pointing out the Desert Caballeros Museum, other historical buildings, and "the jail tree," whereupon hangs a tale! We skirted the Hassayampa River -- Glenn told us that "Hassayampa" means "river that runs upside down," since parts of it disappear under the ground and out of sight. As we headed out of town toward Box Canyon, Glenn pointed out more plants of the Sonoran Desert: The agave which he said blooms once in its lifetime (he also told us Tequila is made from the root). Mesquite. Ironwood (used for carving, as dense and hard as iron). Tamarack trees; and plants like The Devil's Whip, Ocotilla, and Desert Cholla (pronounced choy-a), which has little sheaths over its "stickers" to keep in the moisture.
At Box Canyon, Glenn pointed out swallows' nests and talked about flash floods during winter, one which swept him and his car a long ways, and waking up dazed in his friend's yard. After that, we headed back to the Ranch, with the Weaver Range, the White Range, McDowells, and Bradshaw Mountains framing the distant skylines. Trap and Skeet Shooting
After a short ride to RLC's shooting range, gun safety lessons were immediately in order. John, our expert instructor and "skeet puller," was soft-spoken and safety conscious, just the way I like it. Everyone paid close attention to our "lesson" in gun safety, as well as instruction in how to stand, call "pull" and then shoot at the clay pigeons that he would release from their hiding places in sheds along the ground.
At first, we all missed or mistimed our shots at the flying disks. Finally, I discovered that if I applied my relaxation techniques, made sure my stance was correct, and trusted instinct as much as aim, I started knocking down the flying disks with regularity.
All the while, my mind was on the team penning activity planned for the afternoon (where I really expected to shine). I had come to RLC to learn this new skill (and boast about it back home). But I didn't excel at this activity at all. That afternoon, almost all the Ranch guests showed up at RLC's version of the OK Corral. We were given horses and put on teams of five, to take turns cutting and driving specific calves (with numbers on them) from one end of the big corral into a pen at the other end.
All was not lost, however, because I insisted on learning how to lasso a hay bale -- also not as easy as it sounds. The rope was stiffer than I realized, and has to be wound just right (different for lefties, like me); and then you need the coordination to throw the lasso far enough and good enough. Actually, my overhead serve from tennis came in very handy. And so I could boast a new skill after all -- roping hay bales -- while gaining a high regard for what cowboys do so effortlessly. Have you have ever roped a hay bale? The FoodBefore dinner, cocktails and snacks in the main lodge's expansive and comfortable bar put everyone in a relaxed mood. I particularly enjoyed the special, prickly-pear margaritas. We were seated in our own special room for dinner, and presented with a glorious menu that included "Platos Principiales" (main entrees) and "Especiales del Dia" (daily specials). What a selection! And, since I always try to choose something unique to the places I visit -- in this case, the American southwest -- I started out with "tortilla sopa" -- a tomato-laced, brothy, chicken soup with herbs and chilies, along with creamy avocado and cheeses, broadened with crunchy tortilla strips. The taste and textures interacted exquisitely. One salad selection was "Caballeros caprese" -- vine-ripe, red, golden and green zebra tomatoes fanned out with Italian buffalo mozzarella and crispy fried basil leaves, dressed with a toasted pinion nut vinaigrette. Everything beautifully plated. And with that very special tinge of the Southwest -- unique flavors, herbs, and "tastes" that no "city pretender restaurant" can match. And very attentively served. I chose the "Patito dos Modos" for my main course. Duck. But duck such as no one has ever prepared for me. Can you hear me now, Wolfgang and Jacques? Served two different ways: First, a duck breast seared crispy and glazed with sautéed huckleberries and honey-roasted garlic. Second, cakes of duck confit spiked with roasted pine nuts, sweet corn, onions, poblanos and garlic. Both absolutely delicious. And accompanied by a green bean melange with roasted baby turnips. When something's really good, I mumble "mmm, mmmm," with every bite -- and I can tell you I did a lot of "mmm-ing" through the entire meal. Desserts at RLC are equally impressive: Vaquero Chocolate Pie; Cajeta-Apple Galette; MJ's Carrot Cake (a 30-year favorite); Creme Brulee; Tiramisu, home-made ice creams (including prickly pear flavor), and much more. Another night I ordered the "Cowboy Buffalo Ribeye." Heavily herbed and peppered (a mite too hot for me) this bone-in buffalo steak was marinated in bourbon, maple syrup and ancho chili, then open-flame broiled. The choices at RLC are endlessly wonderful: Juniper planked WILD salmon. Pork carnitas. Elk osso bucco. Chicken with Arugula-Almond-Asiago pesto; Painted Desert Trout. One dish better than the next. I understand, with advance reservations, people not staying at the RLC, are also welcome to partake of these exceptional dining experiences. After dinner, high class entertainment -- from opera to cowboy or cowgirl singing; banjo and guitar music -- is enjoyed in the large bar area. At noontimes, all-inclusive lunch buffets offer something for everyone: A monstrous tureen of marvelous soup -- different every day. A couple of hot casseroles containing chicken or ham. An endless buffet of cold cuts, salads, and fixins', varieties of nuts and herbs; fruits and vegetables. And, at the end of the buffet, in its own special section: Home-made fruit pies, cakes, and cookies -- each one better than the next -- Mexican wedding cakes, peanut butter and chocolate chip, toffees, and candies. But the western haywagon cookout under the stars was RLC's piece de resistance. Haywagon Dinner Cookout
Near dusk, about 50 ranch guests clambered onto a huge haywagon pulled by four big horses. When we arrived at the cookout site, a crackling campfire and the guitar and songs of strolling balladeer, Ray Callaway greeted us. Appetizers were served from the back end of a classic chuckwagon. Long tables with red-and-white-checkered tablecloths were set up around the cookout area. Memorable, delicious food included: BBQ ribs and chicken. Among the best barbecue I've eaten. Corn on the cob. Beans. Salads. And, out of a huge pot came the most delicious potato mixture I've ever eaten -- like scalloped potatoes -- only better. Chocolate cake brownies for dessert. The whole time we were at RLC, the caring, knowledgeable, attentive, and unobtrusive RLC staff made sure things were ultra-comfortable, but it was never "touristy." As the sun disappeared in the west and the sky darkened, several coyotes started howling. How real is that? The night began to get cold, and everyone gravitated to the crackling campfire to absorb some warmth. I put on the fleece jacket, quilted jacket, ski cap and gloves I had brought along but didn't think I'd ever use while I was there. Balladeer Ray Callaway held forth with every western song you can think of, and more: Tumbling Tumble Weeds. Yellow Rose of Texas. Home on the Range. Cool Clear Water. Mamas don't let your babies grow up to be cowboys. He was dumbfounded when I asked if he knew, "I'm going to leave old Texas now," a song I learned in High School chorus, and then played and sang it beautifully. After most of the people and kids headed back to the ranch, several remaining diehards sat around the campfire drinking "joe", and trading stories. A zillion stars twinkled overhead, creating a dazzling, awesome atmosphere. When it came time for us to bid adios to the cookout site, no-one said a word on our way back to the Ranch. We all felt free, relaxed, and at peace. As I fell asleep in my comfortable bed that night, I reviewed my priceless experiences at Rancho de los Caballeros. You'll feel the same when you visit Rancho de los Caballeros: A vacation where you renew yourself in comfort, and let your cares melt away amid nature, world-class accommodations and food, and a range of pleasurable ranch offerings. Like the credit card commercial, your visit to Rancho de los Caballeros will be "priceless". If you go: A note on climate: -- In the summer, temps often go over 100° F. during the day, but the Rancho Golf Course is open year-round. Naomi K. Shapiro is a travel and outdoor writer based in Madison, Wisconsin. |
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Think of it as a luxury version of City Slickers. 
My spacious and comfortable ranch room featured heavy
wood headboard, chairs, desk, and large, framed mirrors. Southwestern art
and wall-hangings, Navajo rugs, and accessories. And, something special you
won't find everywhere you go: a "boot puller" in the corner.
After a marvelous buffet lunch at the Ranch (more about
that later), a small group of us hitched up with B.C. Jeep Tours to learn
more about the area.
On the way, Glenn stopped the jeep and demonstrated how
a thorn of a particular cactus will literally, and ever so slowly, work its
way through just about anything -- including a leather boot!
My unanimous choice for the next morning was trap
shooting.
The guys opted for 12-gauge shotguns. I used a
Remington 20-gauge autoloader.
After very strict instruction on safety as well, the
kids who had come along got their turn using 410's, with John's help --
shooting plates half-buried in the ground.
Sounds easy, eh? Well, it was much more difficult than
it sounded, especially for our team. Let's just say that we couldn't get
our calves together, and they would break away and run back to their group
at the other end of the corral before we could get them down to the pen.
Most of the other teams did ok, but our team score was something like,
Dogies: 15; Team:
zero. 
I saved the hayride and traditional cowboy cookout
under the stars for last, because I know it will be a major highlight of
your RLC vacation as it was for me and everyone else.