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A Sanctuary for Travelers

The Old Kirk B&B, Dyke Scotland

By Paul Pence

The tiny villages of Britain changed when the motorways and major roads developed near them. The village groceries and bakeries and shops of all varieties faded away as the stores in the towns offered better selections and prices to the villagers.  Even the village churches closed down when parishioners found it easy to head into town on Sundays. And while many of the village shops now house art galleries and antique stores, at least one church in Scotland has found new life as a bed and breakfast.

Midway between Nairn and Forres, at the edge of the village of Dyke, surrounded by bright yellow fields cole seed, sits an old church – “kirk” in Gaelic.  It had been called the “East Church”, serving the local Presbyterian citizens until 1941. But with population shifts needed to prosecute WWII and improved transportation to Nairn and Forres, the old church was closed.

It sat unused, or used as a storage building for potatoes, until 1998 when it was modernized and restored.  Amazingly, the original stained glass windows were still intact, and made a colorful centerpiece for the living quarters of a new bed and breakfast.

The German couple who now runs the Old Kirk B&B have made a cozy getaway that is a little out-of-the-ordinary.   Two stories – the main floor has the entry, the kitchen, and the dining room, while the upper floor has three guest rooms and a large, comfortable living room.

And though the owners are not Scottish, they understand the makings of a traditional Scottish breakfast; expect to head out on our day’s jaunts well fed.

Near the Old Kirk B&B, you can visit “Brodie Castle”, a private home with fairytale spires and seasonal touring hours.  Or travel into nearby Forres, with formal ornamental gardens and topiaries, shops for Scottish fish and chips, and even the infamous “witch’s stone” that marks the grisly killing of an accused witch.  In the other direction, the beaches of Nairn make for wonderful sandy strolls.

Or just stay near the Old Kirk.  The B&B’s garden makes a pleasant place to relax.  You can look out over the fields and watch the innkeeper’s horse and its companion Shetland pony.  And when you’re ready for exercise, take a stroll through the old village of Dyke, and imagine what it was like before the motorways, when the village still had one grocer, one butcher, one baker, and one church.

Old Kirk’s address is: The Old Kirk, Dyke by Forres, Moray, IV36 2TL, Scotland, United Kingdom.  You can call them at 01309 641414 or check their website at http://www.oldkirk.co.uk

Photos by Paul Pence

Bio – Paul Pence is a freelance travel writer who visited Scotland on his honeymoon.

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