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Romantic South African AdventureBy Valerie SummersTraversing the African bush in search of lions, leopards, elephants, buffalo and rhinos. Quiet evenings spent in luxurious private suites. Outdoor massages. Gourmet dining beneath the sky. Then, a private cottage fronting a desolate beach, with miles and miles of what looks like powdered sugar, so white and so fine. Continuing on to an elegant boutique hotel, overlooking a whale filled bay, stopping at romantic vineyards to sample some of the country’s great wines. The ultimate seclusion… a small hotel so private, it bears no identifying name and exists behind private, gated walls. And finally, a visit to the country’s second city, set among some of the most beautiful scenery on earth. This is South Africa, the definitive choice for romantic adventurers.
Regretfully departing the Royal Malewane for Cape Town and its environs, the next stop brought us to Birkenhead House. Perched high on the cliffs of Hermanus, the hotel overlooked Walker Bay, which emptied into the Indian Ocean. We were fortunate enough to arrive at the height of mating season for the Southern Right whales and there were more than 100 in the bay during this, the Festival of Whales, having just migrated from Antarctica. This elegant small coastal hotel, adorned with rare maritime antiques, featured opulently decorated rooms joined by equally elegant and spacious bathrooms.
One evening, during cocktail hour in the hotel’s reception area, a talented group of six young black African men, ages 12-16, delighted us with a half hour of singing arias from several famous operas. Returning each evening from a gourmet dinner in the hotel’s bay-view dining room, we found our guest room bathed in glimmering candlelight, setting the scene for a night of romance.
We headed towards Cape Town situated in one of the world’s most beautiful settings. Our exploration of South Africa’s second city began with a steep revolving tram ride up to the magnificent landmark Table Mountain. There, we hiked along various paths, marveling at the breathtaking views and extraordinary plant life.
We discovered four distinctive boutique hotels in and around Cape Town, each with its own unique personalities and amenities. All featured exceptional gourmet breakfasts, with some offering additional food service. Climbing down a hillside overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, Les Cascades de Bantry Bay is the realized dream of Belgium ex-pats, Luc and Els Deschhouwer. The 10-room property incorporates Balinese décor into the spacious bedrooms with extra-large bathrooms, private sundecks, infinity pools seemingly spilling down to the ocean and spectacular views.
With four bedrooms flanking a pool centered courtyard, Hemingway House, formerly a Masonic Lodge, is centrally situated in the heart of Cape Town’s City Bowl. The rooms vary in size and appointments, each offering its own charm. The cozy lounge invites guests to sit by the fireplace and kick back. Amiable Josie Hemingway has taken her relaxed outlook on life and channeled it into the décor and running of her boutique B&B near the foot of Table Mountain. A romantic boutique hotel, the Long Beach, boasts five lovely suites. For anyone wishing privacy and isolation, this is the place. The hotel overlooks a gorgeous, desolate, wide sand beach gently sloping down to Hout Bay. Our favorite room was certainly not the largest, but oh, what a sight it offered. From the king sized bed, we enjoyed an uninterrupted view of waves lapping up onto the unspoiled sugary white beach and across the watery expanse to Table Mountain. It made us think of a well-known, romantic scene from the film “From Here to Eternity.” Our final South African destination prior to heading home was a night at the cutting edge Melrose Arch Hotel in Johannesburg. It would fit well in the middle of New York, London or Beverly Hills as one of the city’s hippest hotels. Guest rooms were spacious and ultra modern and the reception area featured a fascinating ever changing colored lighted pathway to the front desk. After inspecting our state of the art accommodations, we ambled downstairs to the pool area where, side by side was a standard swimming pool situated next to a large wading pool dotted with small round cocktail tables and chairs. In this most unusual setting, we rolled up our slacks and waded into the inviting watery terrace, seating ourselves at a table for before dinner drinks. We toasted South Africa and the wonderful experiences that we had, then made our way to the hotel’s fine dining room for a memorable farewell dinner.
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Even
the word “safari” conjures up a romantic setting although some adventures
through the bush might be rather rugged. At the Royal Malewane, the epitome
of a luxury safari lodge, however, indulgence began as soon as my companion
and I stepped off the plane at Hoedspruit where we were greeted with a glass
of celebratory champagne, then whisked into a van, deposited at a wooden
greeting deck in the midst of nowhere and led up the elevated walkway to an
exotic thatched roofed indoor/outdoor lavishly decorated lounge. Situated
on the western fringe of Kruger National Park in the heart of what is known
as Southern Africa’s “Big Five” territory, (lions, leopards, elephants,
buffalo & rhino) this private game reserve balances nature’s wild pulse with
the sophistication and elegance of colonial comfort. What became apparent
immediately was that during our stay, we would be pampered. Impalas
strolled, unconcerned, throughout the premises and monkeys darted in and out
of trees all day and evening. Amidst a view of the wildlife, spectacular,
gourmet meals were served on the indoor/outdoor deck or at the boma where we
partook in a sumptuous barbecue followed by the colorfully costumed staff
entertaining us with native song and dance. 
Luxurious
free-standing private suites harmoniously rose up out of natural
surroundings…the operative word being “private.” Spacious cottages were
dominated by a canopied king-sized bed and joined by an oversized bath
parlor. And outside, a secluded deck with an infinity plunge pool and
thatched gazebo with chaise lounges begged for occupancy. Massages were
offered in the open air sala, in the serene spa or in the private
hideaways. We were booked into the Royal Suite, considered the most
exclusive and largest in Africa. The ultra luxurious private hideaway
accommodated four guests in two gorgeously appointed en-suite rooms with
huge bathrooms, indoor and outdoor showers, private lounge (as big as a
hotel lobby) with a fireplace, fully stocked bar, dining facilities, full
kitchen and the complimentary services of a 24-hour private butler, private
chef and masseur. The adjoining deck featured two sun sheltering thatched
roof gazebos off each bedroom, a plunge pool and Jacuzzi. Often, in the heat
of the day, we cooled off in the pool but sometimes bathed by moonlight.
Early
each morning and late in the afternoon, bundled up to ward against the chill
in the air, we gathered with the other guests, boarding a topless Range
Rover with stadium seating, so there was not a bad view from any perch.
Heading out into the bush, our knowledgeable ranger/driver, Sasha and our
eagle-eye tracker, Patrick, often went off-road to bring us face to face
with a pride of lions, a herd of female elephants with their young, down
for a morning nap, or a gigantic lone bull elephant stomping his way through
the bush. We viewed a pair of cheetah cubs sunning themselves, some shy
giraffes nibbling on almost barren trees and a group of hippos emerging from
a small lake. Surprises came at every turn. An unexpected but elegant
picnic brunch in the bush following one of our forages in search of the “Big
Five” featured a white linen covered long table set with fine china and
crystal and an assortment of delectable hot and cold dishes. Lions roaring,
elephants trumpeting and a chorus of cicadas erupted from the bush each
night. Sunsets lit up the skies in vibrant colors of violet, lavender, rose
and apricot and each evening and we viewed the Southern Cross, along with
millions of other stars in the heavens.
We
spent several hours each day lounging on the hotel’s terrace watching the
enormous creatures in the blue waters of the bay while sipping steaming hot
cappuccinos served by a smiling orange-turbaned woman. We strolled along the
cliff path walk which went on for miles into the village to shop at the
Crafts Market and lunch at one of the several fine restaurants.
One
sunny afternoon, for a closer look at the whale activity, we hopped aboard a
pontoon boat out of Kleinbaai Harbour for the Dyer Island Cruise. A short
ride later we found ourselves just a few feet from these great aquatic
creatures, sometimes peacefully swimming in pairs, several coming closer to
our small boat for a better look at us. We then zoomed across the water to
an area known as Shark’s Alley. On one side thousands of Cape fur seals
covered a small outcropping, the stench nearly overwhelming us. Dyer’s
Island, a bird refuge lay on the opposite side. This area, we learned, is a
favorite hunting ground of great white sharks. However, we were not
fortunate enough to spot any on this outing.
Our
departure from Hermanus took us through the Cape Winelands, less than an
hour’s drive from Cape Town. We stopped for a sampling of the grape at
Boschendal and Stellenbosch vineyards amidst the awe-inspiring scenery.
Mountain roads snaked through craggy topped mountains, serene lakes sparkled
in the sun and tall grasses swayed in the great expanses of open fields.
Tucked away in the tranquil vineyards of the Franschhoek Valley, we stopped
at the private wine and olive Estate of Domaines des Anges which painted an
exquisite backdrop to the secluded La Residence retreat. The low-keyed
exterior did not prepare us for the gracious interior of old-world luxury
complete with fine French antiques, sprawling sofas and exquisite Persian
carpets. Individually decorated guest rooms ran the gamut from cozy and
charming to huge and opulent….the largest suite featuring not one but two
toilets in its oversized bath parlor. A private butler, chef and chauffer
with car were available to La Residence guests should they wish to leave
this heavenly place.
When
we finally did leave, we drove alongside the towering cliffs of False Bay,
with the aquamarine waves crashing against the rocks, the sugar white sand
beaches, lush greenery banking the road and the distant land masses leading
to the Cape. The sight certainly rivaled the Amalfi Drive of Italy and
California’s Big Sur. 
Next
on the agenda was a visit to the historical Cape of Good Hope Nature
Reserve, another beautiful gift of nature with its more than 2,700 species
of indigenous plants and 250 species of birds. Here, baboons roamed free
and were bold enough to snatch food and drink from the hands of several two
legged visitors. A climb to the lighthouse, where two oceans collide, to
view what was formerly named the Cape of Storms, proved breathtaking. Down
at the shoreline, another adventure took us to view the thriving African
penguin colony at Boulders Beach just outside of Simon’s Town to watch
thousands of these amusing creatures going about their day swimming and
sunning. Later, a stop at the Craft Market and shopping center at the
Victoria & Albert Waterfront provided an opportunity to buy unusual gifts,
clothing and souvenirs.
With
the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens as its neighbor, the luxurious five-star,
four-suite Bishop’s Court, located in Cape Town’s most exclusive suburb
offers a secluded, romantic retreat. One suite opened onto a walled
courtyard with Jacuzzi and outdoor shower for special private moments.
Tennis courts and swimming pool on the premises beckoned guests to enjoy
some outdoor exercise. Owner Paul le Roux, a certified Cape Peninsula Tour
Guide, offers to show his guests his unique Cape Town at their request.
The
next morning we boarded our South African Airways flight back to New York.
This flight is the longest non-stop flight in the world, but we were so
comfortable and well attended to that it was the perfect finale for a very
special romantic South African adventure.