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Retracing The Footsteps Of History Along The Southern End Northeast Passage

By Habeeb Salloum

For a day we had slowly followed the shoes of Lake Champlain southward from the Canadian border re-tracing the footsteps of history along the historic Northeast Passage waterway, linking Canada’s St-Lawrence River with New York. Unlike in the past when it was one of the great routes for both trade and war, it was for us a pathway for exploring history while we enjoyed the tourist sites.

The lakes and rivers forming this passageway have seen, for centuries, mighty armies and grand flotillas negotiate their waters. Before being discovered by Samuel de Champlain, the Iroquois Indians used the waterways as a pathway for trade and war. After the British and French colonization of eastern North America, it became an important pathway for traders as well as a roadway of invasions and counter invasions by the British, French and, later, the Americans. Above all, until the advent of the railway, it was the route by which the riches of the continent were conveyed to the Atlantic coast.

After a day of discovery and excitement, at the southern end of Lake Champlain, we reached Ticonderoga, noted for its 18th century reconstructed Fort on whose grounds occurred the greatest French victory in the ‘Seven Years War’, and the first American victory during the ‘American War of Independence’.

A few miles to the south in Silver Bay, we had at a restful sleep at a hundred year century-old YMCA conference and training center, located on the western shore of Lake George in the bosom of the Adirondack Mountains. This put us in a good mood to begin our next day’s journey. “It looks like it will be a fine day. I am excited! If it’s like yesterday, the wonders of nature are unending”, my colleague remarked as we headed for Lake George Village, the hub of a resort area on the shores of one of the most beautiful lakes in the world.

Surrounded by majestic mountains and nestled along the shore of the clear blue waters of Lake George, dotted with 245 islands, the resort area is edged by magnificent parks. Called by Thomas Jefferson the ‘Queen of Lakes’, the 32 miles long, 3 miles wide and 60 m (200 ft) deep clear lake, located in the foothills of the Adirondacks, is formed by springs gushing from fissures at its bottom - no rivers flow in or out of the lake. A good part of its shoreline is unsettled with only a few small communities dotting the lakeshore. Of these, Lake George village with its restaurants, shops and nightlife, is the main tourist destination.

After touring the village, we drove to the top of the edging Prospect Mountain for a breathtaking view of the town and the lake beyond, seemingly covered with boats. “It’s truly a postcard picture!” I thought to myself as we stepped into the bus on our way to Fort Edward - once the third largest "city" in colonial North America and one of the largest British military forts in the colonies.

Our goal in this town enshrined in history was the Rogers Island Visitors Center. Here, we examined for an hour exhibits telling the story of the Fort Edward area, from the earliest Native Americans to past the Revolutionary War. Well organized, the museum/centre also serves for six weeks each summer as a base of operations for the Adirondack Community College Archaeological Field School. Conscious and proud of their work, the members of the staff made us feel welcome. “We want to make history interesting to our visitors”, one of the pleasant guides said when I complimented her on their fine Center.

Further south, we followed for a while the 97 km (60 mi) long Champlain Canal - the human dug channel that made possible the sailing from New York to Montreal on the famous Northeast Waterway. The Canal connecting the Hudson River and Lake Champlain has a rich trade and military history but today is a pathway for visitors who travel its waters to enjoy nature’s beauty and relive some of its historic past.

Driving a short distance from the canal, we were soon in Saratoga National Historical Park standing by the Saratoga Monument, which commemorates the American victory here over the British in 1777. The battle at this historic spot was the turning point of the Revolution and was one of the decisive battles in world history. It is the spot where the British suffered their major defeat at the hands of the rebelling colonists, later to become known as 'Americans’.

Here we ended our journey of exploring the historic remains along the edges of the last part of the first ‘North American Super Highway’. Were the stories of victories and defeats that we heard from guides along the Northeast Passageway or read in history books really true? No one will know.  The conquerors or victors always write their own versions of history.  In any case, we had enjoyed these stories and at the same time explored some of the most scenic landscapes in North America while being welcomed and hosted and by friendly people. It was a fulfilling journey.

If You Go

Facts About the Northeast Passageway:

  • Lake Champlain and Lake George are made for water lovers. Overshadowed by the spectacular Adirondack Mountains they have an aura of enchantment and are ideal for boating, sailing and windsurfing.

  • Fishing is excellent especially in Lake Champlain. In its waters can be found 80 varieties of fish such as bass, lake trout, land locked salmon, long nose gar, northern pike and yellow perch.

  • For those who love the outdoors, the Adirondack Forest Preserve is over six million acres in size with 46 mountains and 2,547 lakes - the largest park in the mainland U.S.A.

  • Lake Champlain has its Loch Ness monster called Champs. Every one seems to have a different story about the sightings of this monster. Of course, I am sure all fantasies.

  • Worth a stopover is Crown Point Bread & Baking Co. – Yannig Tanguy, its owner, a son of French immigrants, traveled to France to study the art of traditional bread making. Not only is his old fashioned bread, baked in an imported brick oven, excellent, but he is also noted for his apple cider donuts and Michigan – a special type of hot dog. An excellent fiddler, when he is not busy, he likes to entertain his visitors while they munch on his bakery products, hence, making his bakery very popular. Crown Point - Tel: (518) 598-4466.

  • Some of the finest cycling in North America can be found along a large network of bicycle routes, along the Northeast Waterway.

  • The time to visit the forts in the region is when a re-enactment of some aspect in history takes place. The shows are interesting and colourful.

  • An interesting guided tour to take in the region is the Underground Railroad Tour where a number of homes, still in existence, that sheltered fleeing slaves on their way to Canada are visited.

For Further information, Contact:
Lake Champlain Region: Rouses Point to Whitehall, Plattsburgh North Country Chamber of Commerce, POB 310, Plattsburgh, NY 12901.  Tel: 518.563.1000. Website: www.goadirondack.com

Lake Champlain Visitors Center, 94 Montcalm Street, Suite 1, Ticonderoga, NY 12883.  Tel: Toll free - 1.866.The Lake.  E-mail: info@lakechamplainregion.com  Website: www.lakechamplainregion.com

Lake George Region: Hague to Glens Falls, Warren County Tourism Department
Municipal Center, 1340 State Route 9, Lake George, NY 12845-9803.  Tel: Toll free - 800.365.1050 extension 247.  E-mail:  wctour@co.warren.ny.us  Website: www.visitlakegeorge.com

Champlain Canal Region:  Whitehall to Waterford, Washington County Tourism
Washington County Municipal Building, 383 Broadway, Fort Edward, NY  12828. Tel: Toll free - 888.203.8622 E-mail: info@washingtoncounty.org  Websites: www.washingtoncounty.org & www.washco.net

Saratoga County Chamber of Commerce, 28 Clinton Street, Saratoga Springs, NY 12866.  Tel: 518.584.3255. E-mail: info@saratoga.org  Website: www.saratoga.org
Also, see website: www.byways.org

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