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Walking the streets of Paris

By Sylvia Seschel

The riots did not deter me from my Paris jaunt to cap off a fabulous two week Egypt & Jordan adventure.

Dropped my bags off in the hotel room, I didn’t waste precious early November daylight that was left.

I walked to the Pantheon, built as a church to celebrate the recovery of Louis XV from a mysterious illness. A short walk is St-Etienne du Mont, a 16th century church popes visited to see the tomb of Ste-Genevieve, patron saint of Paris.

After just meandering around to who knows where I went around Quatier Latin (Latin Quarter), where I stayed.  It was getting dark. Not far from my hotel is Place de la Sorbonne with plenty of cafes. At Le Tabac de la Sorbonne, I ate and people watched in the early evening. The attractive façade of Chappelle La Sorbonne provided a great view.

An early night was in order after all I was awake since 3 a.m. in Amman Jordan.

Sitting outside The Baker’s Dozen on Place de la Sorbonne, I studied my map of the route of the day, watched people pass by and enjoyed two delicious croissants and an espresso (3 euros). Starting at Rue du Vaugirard, I walked up Rue Tournon. I didn’t stop in any boutiques or old bookstores. Time was limited.  I’m not a shopper. I found St. Sulpice, a church that took 134 years to build.  Across is Fountain des Quatres Points Cardinaux (Fountain of the Four Bishops) (1844). “Points” mean never. Four church leaders never made cardinals.

Blvd. St. Germain is bustling on this warm sunny day.  I sat at Café Flore, once a popular spot for celebrities especially writers, for a few moments. No one came to serve which was fine because I just wanted to say I sat there.

Continuing on I spotted St. Thomas d’Aquin church (1863).  Napoleon’s coronation held in December 1804.

Crossing Pont de la Concorde, the traffic whizzed by as I waited for a break to snap a picture of Place de la Concorde where Marie Antoinette and 1000s of others were executed. The Obelisk, given as a gift in 1833, was a reminder of my Egypt trip just over a week ago.

I took my time strolling up the left side of Avenue de Champs Elysees toward the Arc de Triomphe. Along the way I saw the statue of Charles de Gaulle, a nifty one seat silver car (couldn’t find out its name in the Toyota showroom), & Fouquets (where mom and I splurged 24 years ago). At the entrance of this expensive restaurant are gold blocks with famous names (French actor Alain Delon, Sophia Loren).

I debated but wasn’t quite hungry though the price looked right for a sandwich and a drink (5 Euros) at Pomme de Pain, a chain of eatery found around Paris with a few seats. I continued my walk.

The Arc de Triomphe wasn’t done to welcome Napoleon’s troops but completed 20 years later. There are underground passageways to get to its grounds. I walked around admiring the sculptures and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. I had forgotten about Armistice Day. I’m leaving 11th November and would have loved to watch the parade down the Champs Elysees.

The sky was crisp blue. I sat on the steps of Palais de Chaillot (housing 3 museums) gazing at the Eiffel Tower eating an orange and another croissant.

Leaves still gripping on the trees in Champs de Mar, I looked back at the tower, built 1889 by Gustave Eiffel. Almost torn down, can you imagine Paris without this steel structure?

Passing by Ecole Militarie, where Napoleon trained, I headed to Hotel des Invalides, built for Louis XIV’s wounded and homeless soldiers. The glittering golden Dome Church houses Napoleon’s tomb.

Walking down Rue De Grenelle, I sensed the local was wrong.  It was 3 p.m.  Rue Cler. I looked down at my map. Yep. I’m going the wrong way. I strolled this pedestrian only market street.  Pondered to take the metro (Euro 1.40), no. I did not want to miss a single site. Heading back on Rue De Grenelle, I turned onto Rue du Bac and found myself back at Blvd. St. Germain where I watched a man carving vegetables into a work of art. Agreed to have his picture taken, I gave him money.

It rained the next day, which I timed perfectly for a bus tour to Chateaux de Loire Valley.

My last day. What luck that the sun shone and temperatures warmed up.

On Blvd. St. Michel, turned left onto Quai des Grand Augustis. Before crossing Pont Neuf (new bridge) I looked behind and saw the 14th century Conciergerie, once a palace, and then a prison (Marie Antoinette roomed in a tiny cell until execution), now functions such as concerts occur.

Pont Neuf is actually the oldest bridge Paris (1607) that leads to Ile de la Cite (origin of Paris). Behind the statue of Henry IV are the steps leading to Square du Vert-Galant. Peaceful from the bustling streets, I sat on the bench etching the colourful flowers and the view of the Seine into my mind.

I quickly visited Place Dauphine, a V-shaped square laid out by Henry IV in 1607 to see no.14 that avoided many restorations.

X-ray security was the order to enter the grounds (across are toilets, for free!). Saint-Chapelle, built in 1853, has a gorgeous spire rising 75m high. Inside (Eruo 6.10) are magnificent 15 stained glass windows. Once a royal palace, Palais de Justice now houses law courts.

I walked around the courtyard in Hotel Dieu, once an orphanage, now hospital. Here in 1944, brave Paris police resisted the Germans.

Notre Dame was busy but at least it wasn’t the sweltering of tourists like in high season. 

I crossed over to Ile St-Louis. Walking on the narrow cobblestone Rue St.-Louis-en I’lle, I found the baroque Eglise St-Louis en-I’lle. Though I like Notre Dame, I was impressed with this gorgeous interior of gilding and marble then I got shooed out. Found out later I was in off hours.

Near home base, I was on Blvd. St Michel. The beautiful fountain on Place St. Michel depicts a not so beautiful story of St. Michel killing a dragon.

There was a pit in my stomach. It wasn’t the fact that I wanted onion soup and couldn’t find a café yet who served it. I simply don’t want to go home.

I ended up at Brasserie Escholier, on Place de la Sorbonne, near my home base. Go figure. Next time I’m in Paris, I’ll do more café exploring. With limited daylight time, I just wanted to take advantage and see as much as I could.

Heading down Rue de Vaugirard, I spent what little daylight was left strolling in Jardin de Luxembourg.

I love the architecture of Palais du Luxembourg, built to remind Marie de Medicis, window of Henry IV, her native Florence. Along with other Parisians, I wondered around this 60-acre park dotted with statues and an octagonal pool. The clouds began to roll in.

At Le Tabac de la Sorbonne I enjoyed a cappuccino and one last people watching.

One really can’t get lost in France’s capital though it’s fun trying. I won’t wait too long to visit the other unexplored Paris on foot. Oh yeah and adventure out to different cafes.

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