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Finger Lakes Food, Wine & Foliage Road TripBy Richard Frisbie
I started 3 ½ hours from home at the battle of Newtown Historic site on a high bluff overlooking the Chemung River Valley. In August of 1779 the Revolutionary War strategy that broke the Iroquois strength in New York was the Sullivan - Clinton Campaign. Generals James Clinton & John Sullivan went right through the section of country below Seneca Lake in the Finger Lakes. In fact - the only real battle occurred at Newtown, a scant 5 miles from the center of present-day Elmira. Joseph Brandt and the British soldiers were routed, and our troops went on to lay waste to the land -- burning lodges, chopping down orchards and taking or destroying all the food the Indians had stored. This decimated the Iroquois Nation, sending them fleeing to Niagara and the protection of the British during the bitterly cold winter that followed, leaving the land in undisputed American control.
And, while the Civil War may seem distant to us New Yorkers in 2006, my thoughts came full circle when I learned that there was a Confederate prison right in the city of Elmira. There is nothing much to see now, but I did walk through the Chemung County Historical Society Museum to see a picture of it in the 'Then & Now' photography exhibit. That's where I learned that most of Mark Twain's famous books were written in Elmira, too. Who knew? They have a nice little museum in a converted old river front mill, staffed with folks truly interested in their history. It's well worth a stop while you're in the neighborhood. Next, I visited the Arnot Museum a few blocks away on Lake Street. It is one of the last remaining places in the US where an original collection of 18th & 19th century art is still intact and hanging in the room designed for it. It is amazing to see 75 early European masterworks crowding the walls of this wood-paneled and sky-lighted room. But that is just the beginning. Over the last 100 years the museum expanded it's vision and now has a most impressive modern art collection filling what used to be Mr. Arnot's mansion. John O'Hern, the curator and director, walked me through the expansive halls as his staff hung the next show. I got a real firsthand look at how a museum works, and at what promises to be a stunning exhibit. All the art was on the floor, leaning against the walls. In between pieces, John shared anecdotes about the antics of previous directors, and what rock stars he had to outbid for some of his 'hottest' works of art. It was a most informal introduction to some amazing talent. On top of everything else, I learned that you don't have to battle New York City traffic, and prices, to discover GREAT museums. The Arnot Museum's Michael Bergt Retrospective will be running through Thanksgiving week, and admission is free. As you plan a foliage tour of Schuyler and Chemung counties in New York's Finger Lakes region, be sure to include Elmira's Arnot Museum.
I went to Corning for my next museum fix. Corning is another 'river town', just upstream from Elmira, that also shows it's industrial roots in the turn-of-the-century architecture. It is remarkably preserved, and the grand houses up on the hill are worth the view if you can find time for the drive. I had to settle for seeing the pictures in a book while I was browsing the museum shop in the Rockwell Museum of Western Art. Finally, I tore myself away from the books to see the amazing collection of paintings and sculpture Mr. Rockwell amassed in his sojourn out west. Remingtons, Wyeths, and artists I never heard of -- but whose images looked so familiar -- fill the three story structure with nostalgia and beauty. Beth A. Harvey gave me a personal tour, filling the between-the-paintings talk with anecdotes about the different shows they've had over the years. She told me that at much of this art originally decorated the walls of the Rockwell-owned department store that was once here in Corning, and people could just go up and touch it. Upon Mr. Rockwell's demise, a suitable building was acquired to house his priceless collection. Needless to say, touching isn't allowed anymore.
Just outside the door you can catch a free shuttle which
circles through the "gaffer" district of art galleries, antique shops and
restaurants, then over the Chemung River to the Corning Museum of Glass every
fifteen minutes. Or you could take a 5 minute walk over the footbridge to the
entrance of one of the largest glass collections on display - both artistic and
functional. I loved that kid-friendly museum! The art sculpture pieces are
stunning, and the virtual timeline of glass history is fascinating in its
detail. I learned how to "pull" molten glass heated to 2100 degrees into a
colorful flower, and watched a glass blower create beautiful vases and holiday
ornaments.
That brings us to the real purpose of my visit to the Seneca Lake region. All the museums and architecture were just icing on the cake, as it were. I was there for the food -- and wine, of course. Seneca Lake is famous for its Rieslings, and is fast building a name for its hearty reds. There is a wine for every taste and budget, even sparkling wines, and I was on a mission to try them all. With only time for a two night sojourn in this beautiful country, I asked the assistance of the local tourism folks. They advised a tasting at one of the largest wine producing vineyards, Glenora, and one of the newer smaller ones, Red Newt Winery. Both have excellent restaurants, so besides the rather pedantic approach familiar to everyone who has ever visited a winery, I also got to taste the wine paired with food, the way it should be served.
The restaurant at Glenora Winery is named after a French word to describe the change in color of the wine grapes when they are ripening -- Veraisons. The young executive chef, Joseph Sutton, takes food preparation and wine pairings very seriously. His obvious skill, and delicious combinations, can be beautifully illustrated with two of the eight sampling courses he served.
Second was his vegetable turnover, a rare vegan entree for
this part of the country, hot and spicy in a flaky puff pastry. It was nested on
cajun-seasoned string potatoes, crisply fried, and served with a warm red and a
cool green salsa so that the combination of spicy, crispy, hot and cold burst
into my mouth when I bit into it. His wine choice, a 2004 Cabernet Franc, could
stand alone, but the red was a perfect accompaniment to that intensity of
flavor. The next evening, while the sun slowly set over Seneca
Lake, I interviewed the chef of what all the guide books call the best place to
eat in the region. Debra Whiting, of the Red Newt Bistro, and I sat watching the
colorful light fade as we talked about Community Sustained Agriculture,
Restaurant Sustained Agriculture, and the importance of buying and serving only
the freshest local ingredients. This woman, besides being an excellent and
self-taught chef, is thoroughly committed to saving the family farm in the
Finger Lakes.
Debra served me six courses, each paired with at least two
wines - a red and a white - with one exception. There was a Riesling wine
flight, which was made up of three glasses, one of the best Red Newt Riesling,
and two from neighboring vintners. The surprise was that a fourth glass appeared
that was a blend of all three! In a most unusual display of cooperation, the
three wineries combined their best barrels to bottle the perfect Riesling,
called Tierce, and I got to taste them all!
Dave Whiting also produces the only Syrah from grapes grown in the Finger Lakes. His wife paired it with a breast of duck I initially thought was underdone. There is no room at the table for such misconceptions and prejudices. I had to remind myself that if it is on your plate it is food to be eaten. Debra must have seen the look on my face. She assured me it was cooked to 120 degrees, just the way she liked it. Since she was seated opposite me sharing half of each entree I was served, and since she is the best chef in the region, I tried the "bluest" piece as a sign of faith. I should not have doubted her. I love duck, but seldom find the opportunity to cook it. Her's was pan seared, in the skin, to a crispy brown, narrowly cooked around the thickest slices, but changing to scarcely pink in the center of the thin end. The rich duck flavor was at its most intense where it was rare, with the flavor diminishing as the doneness increased. Perhaps it was that the Syrah was so perfectly paired with the duck that the flavor was cleanly defined, I don't know. It was simply the best duck I've ever eaten.
The flan at the Red Newt was entirely different,
undoubtedly the best I've ever eaten. Chef Debra Whiting and I share the same
philosophy about dessert - it shouldn't be too sweet. Her flan was cooked on the
thinnest bed of fresh apricots, and flavored with coconut milk.
Sunrise over Seneca lake in the morning was spectacular,
with mist swirling in the breeze - and in my head - while the percussive booms
echoed over the ripening fruit to scare the pests away, and to remind me of my
activities last night.
Friday, September 8th was Watkins Glen's Gran Prix, and
this rally kicked it off! It was a day of old cars - everywhere - and I was
just foggy enough to feel as if a time-warp sent me back to the sixties. My old
1959 Volvo 544, or my 1965 Karman Ghia convertible, or my 1969 Camaro muscle car
would have been right at home here. It brought a wave of nostalgia mixed with a
sense of loss - and envy - as I admired the horsepower before me.
This day was so surreal. The main drag in the Village of Watkins Glen was soon closed in preparation for the Gran Prix. I parked near the beginning of my road home to minimize the traffic congestion I'd have to deal with later that afternoon, and walked across town to the Watkins Glen State Park. The natural beauty of the rock gorges filled with walkways and waterfalls is overwhelming.
The streets were filled with a carnival atmosphere.
All this walking on a bright sunny day made me hungry and
thirsty. I ducked into a cool inviting place under a sign saying Wildflower
Cafe.
After three days and two nights, thank goodness all that
was left was the drive home. It was all I had the energy for. I found my car and
left before the final laps, accepting the minor traffic congestion as payment
for a spectacular day, and visit, to this gorgeous section of Central New York.
WHEN YOU GO The Inn at Glenora Wine Cellars
http://www.glenora.com Red Newt Bistro & |
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After a very busy Summer I decided to take a deep breath,
and 3 days off, to reconnect with my New York roots. This is a trip I wanted to
take over Columbus Day weekend to catch the fall color, but for a merchant such
as myself, long holiday weekends and the income they represent are too important
to be missed. So, I settled for an September date. By taking this tour early, I
blazed the trail for everyone to follow me for great food, culture, wine and .
. . did I mention food yet? . . . foliage. C'mon along . . . it was a great
time!
As I drove west on Route 17 from the Hudson Valley, through
the Catskill Mountains and the valleys of the Beaverkill, the Susquehanna, and
the Chemung, I realized that this trip was all about New York's history,
culture, and tourism. New York is an amazing state when three simple days of
eating, drinking and hiking can cover so much territory.
This strategy was so successful that it was used again in
the Civil War with General Sherman's famous march through Georgia. He lead his
troops down the Shenandoah River Valley, where most of the Confederate supplies
came from. They burned everything in their path from Atlanta to the sea. It was
a blow the South would never recover from.
Distances are different in the Finger Lakes. The smaller
city of Corning is about 20 miles west of Elmira. The Inn at Glenora Wine
Cellars,
where I was staying, is about 35 miles north through Watkins Glen at the foot of
Seneca Lake. The roads are arrow-straight, and people seem to get along quite
speedily. It really is nothing to drive back and forth through this triangle of
beautiful scenery in the course of the day, and that is exactly what I did.
While you are there, see if you can spot the clues to
identify it as the old fire house and city hall. There are still plenty of
telltale signs for the observant, and who else would be in an art museum? Be
sure to leave time to see the two whole galleries of Ansel Adams photographs the
Rockwell Museum of Western Art is currently showing. It is not to be missed.
This is a truly hands-on museum that everyone in the family will
enjoy. They even have a good restaurant there, and a coffee shop featuring
sandwiches that look like sculpture, but taste delicious.
I would need several hours to do both restaurants and all
those wines justice, but I'll try to give you an idea of my dining and tasting
experiences by describing some courses and the wines paired with them.
First was his baked brie en croute. That night he served it
with a peach compote, which could just as easily be raspberry or blueberry,
depending on the season, paired with the same flavor spumante that wine maker
Steve DiFrancesco created right next door. I would never have tried the peach
spumante on my own, but served with the warm brie and rich fruity compote it
intensified the peach flavor of both spectacularly. I wanted more than just a
taste! He also served a peach orchard salad that would have worked with that
spumante, but his choice of a 2005 Riesling worked better and without that extra
sweetness with the greens.
He must have been having a bad day last Spring when the writer for Wine
Spectator dined there. The remark that Veraisons was "a good place to have
lunch" was damning in its faint praise. For me he produced a truly spectacular
dinner. I was fortunate to be staying next door at the Glenora Inn, so I could
walk home after all his food and wine to finish watching the full September moon
rise from my deck overlooking Seneca Lake.
She and her husband Dave run the Red Newt Bistro and Winery. They,
along with a friendly staff which includes their two sons, serve creative dishes
and wine blends in incomparable pairings, with course after course exploring
every nuance of taste your palate can discern. If you did not believe wine
should be served with food when you sat down to eat, you would certainly know it
before the meal ended.
Before you think this was an
entirely academic experience, you should know that Dave is recognized for
creating wines that are "pointedly food oriented." Debra served a mesclun and
herb mixed salad surrounded with roasted corn, and topped with cold baby
potatoes under a warm bacon and red onion dressing. The cold, warm, crunchy,
roasted and piquant just-picked freshness of the greens had my taste buds
working overtime to savor all that goodness. The Rieslings were perfect with it!
By an odd coincidence, both meals finished with a flan. The
night before, Chef Sutton's had sugar encrusted fresh red and green grapes on
top that burst with flavor. The flan itself was creamy sweet, with the roasted
sugar 'juice' mixed with unreduced niagara wine for a sauce. The same wine was
in my glass, so the grape, grape, grape flavors, almost too sweet, dominated the
dessert.
It was the
creamiest, I-can't-believe-this-is-cooked, bit of perfection, with apricot
brandy drizzled over it. Not cloyingly sweet, but just right, as was every dish
she served me. That dinner lasted four hours. I had an espresso with lemon twist
to wake me up before I attempted the drive back to the Glenora Inn.
There was a surprise awaiting me. The parking lot was
filled with 130 vintage sports cars, as their drivers and navigators noisily
gathered waiting for the Glenora Rally to begin.
I complimented
the owners on their restorations and took some pictures before motoring South in
my 'cruiser' to hike the fogginess out of my head in the gorges of Watkins Glen.
One minute I was in the hubbub of Gran Prix activity, and
the next I'm strolling a dappled shade walk beside a rushing stream. It was the
perfect tonic for the perfect day. I walked until I found an appetite I thought
I'd never see again after the excesses of the night before. Then I found my way
back though the gorge, the warming morning light reflecting off the puddled
pathway, with thoughts on sustenance before my afternoon's adventure.
I
stopped at vendor's tents along the way to admire the automobile paraphernalia
and inquire about the economics of such an event. At about $100 for the space,
and with crowds estimated at about 20,000, all seemed to think it was money and
time well spent. Even the local used bookshop said their sales went up for it,
although I didn't think this would be a book-buying crowd. There was no grousing
about traffic or lost revenue from the business people I spoke to, and everyone
seemed to be having fun. What a great event!
When my eyes adjusted to the light I found myself in Rooster Fish Brewing,
a restaurant and bar. I don't know when the right name will be over the door, or
even care which name it is, I just wanted you not to miss the good pub food and
great beers. Brewmaster Doug Thayer even uses barley malt in his bread, so a
tall cold glass of his Brownstone Ale (formerly known as Black Walnut ale --
what is it with names here?) and my chicken breast sandwich on a malt roll
worked nearly as perfectly as any of the wine/food pairings I'd recently been
served. Both he and his manager Jo Ann Kingsley graciously paused to answer
questions on what is traditionally their busiest day of the year. I apologized
for my timing, complimented them on a delicious lunch, and let them race off to
prepare for the over 300 meals they said they'll serve today. This place was
jumping! And, while I would have loved to spend the afternoon at the end of the
bar, watching the races through the open window, I thanked the barmaid, Gwenn,
for saving my life with that great ale, and struck out for the docks. I was
going sailing!
Yes, it truly was a strange day. I left the vintage cars
behind and stepped aboard the historic racing yacht Malabar X, docked in the
harbor at the end of the street. Suddenly this landlubber's hiking shoes were
treading the mahogany decks of the of the 1930 & 1932 Bermuda Cup winner! The
boat is owned by the Hazlitt Winery, so a wine tasting was included in the three
hour sail up one side of Seneca Lake and down the other. I passed on the wine,
but drank in the breathtaking beauty of a sunny early autumn sail, with
waterfalls, sailboats and the incredibly tanned young crew vying for my
attention.
There was only a little
breeze, so it was a restful cruise along Seneca's "banana coast", one I can
heartily recommend. I look forward to another, on a blustery day perhaps, when,
instead of lazily helping the crew hoist the sails, (they are not ropes, they're
lines) I have to struggle alongside them to keep the boat upright in the water.
But, whether it is an invigorating sail or not, I definitely plan on doing it
again.