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Monterey and Jazz: A September Treat

Staying At Scenic Asilomar Makes Getaway Even Better

By Larry Taylor

There they were, on stage Sunday night at the Monterey Jazz Festival, three all-time great jazz pianists–Oscar Peterson, Dave Brubeck and Hank Jones–being honored before a sell-out crowd.

Besides celebrating established jazz giants, the three-day festival, Sept 15, 16 and 17, presented some of the world’s best young musicians, playing mainstream as well as smooth, blues and cutting-edge jazz in four venues on the Monterey fairgrounds.

Every mid-September for the last few years, my wife and I have gone up to Monterey to take in the festival Over time we’ve stayed in various places in the Monterey area, including Carmel and Pacific Grove. This year we decided to stay in Asilomar, a State Park and State Beach adjacent to Pacific Grove. The area contains historical lodgings in which to stay.

Asilomar’s area covers 107 pristine acres of lush Monterey pines, surrounded by sand dunes, merging into white sandy beaches. There are panoramic views of the Pacific, deer roam and birds sing in the forest. Several buildings contain 314 guest rooms and conference facilities, all seamlessly blending with the pristine surroundings.

As a place to stay, Asilomar dates back to 1913 when the YWCA started a retreat facility here. Over the years the area evolved into a place for others to stay. The original 11 buildings were designed by famed San Francisco architect Julia Morgan, best known for designing Hearst’s Castle. Subsequently, other architects added more building’s inspired by Morgan’s original work Today’s Asilomar has been selected as a National Historic Landmark.

The accommodations are grouped in clusters of lodges. With its many meeting rooms, Asilomar caters to large groups, and over the years, we have attended meetings and seminars here. Importantly, though, it is a great place to stay for couples and families. And the prices are very friendly.

Rooms range from around $129 to for doubles to $186 for suites, breakfast  included. Our standard  room had two double beds, a desk, table and chairs. It was tastefully plain, and we saw why when we pulled open our balcony curtains–no decoration could compare to the scenery outside--native forest leading to waves crashing on the beach.

After a hearty breakfast, each morning we took a pleasurable walk along the beach path before leaving in the afternoon for the festival. If we had stuck around, there is lots to do on the grounds–lounging around the pool or basking on the beach, as well taking a bike ride with cycles provided, are a couple examples.

Sightseeing is also a great option. Asilomar is adjacent to the famed 17-mile drive along Carmel’s coastline. The area, as most know, is a golfer’s paradise, with Pebble Beach and a multitude of world-class courses close by. Just up the road is Cannery Row and Monterey’s Aquarium. No time for the sights, though, we had jazz to listen to.

Back to Sunday night, another highlight scheduled on the outdoor Jimmy Lyons stage was the world premiere of a newly commissioned work by Brubeck, “Cannery Row Suite,” based on the John Steinbeck novel which was set in Monterey. Joining Brubeck’s regular quartet were his son Chris Brubeck’s’s group, Triple Play, and a chorus from University of Pacific. Vocalists Kurt Elling and Roberta Gambarini sang the leads, and it was an all together spirited audience-pleasing presentation.

Peterson’s set followed with his regulars, Ulf Wakenius, guitar; David Young, bass; and Alvin Queen, drums. At age 80 and hampered by a recent stroke, Peterson still showed he had one of the best right hands in jazz piano. When he finished his set, the 87-year-old Jones joined him, displaying his light touch and tasteful style.

Another coterie of jazz’s finest commanded Saturday night–Charles Lloyd, on tenor and flute, succeeded by vocalist Diane Reeves and then pianist McCoy Tyner with their respective groups. Lloyd stood out in a set labeled “40th Anniversary of Forest Flower.” The occasion commemorated the fact that Lloyd first played this hit song in 1966 at Monterey.

Tall and gangly, his body bobbing and weaving as he masterfully played his sax, he sounded at age 68 as good as ever. Buoyed by top musicians, Geri Allen on piano, Reuben Rogers, bass, and Eric Harland, drums, Lloyd really let go on the “Forest Flower” finale.

Among the younger musicians, trumpet player Roy Hargrove’s Quintet showed it is among the world’s best. At the intimate indoor Dizzy’s Den on Sunday, Hargrove was joined by alto player Justin Robinson, their contrapuntal exchanges creating a blaze of excitement. Contrastingly, Hargrove’s tender rendering of “Fools Rush In” had the audience enraptured. Rare in the tightly scheduled festival context, the group was called back by the cheers for two encores.

Young 19-year-old piano phenomenon, Eldar, made a big impression, as well, playing Friday  on the outdoor Garden Stage. From Kyrgyzstan, his playing combines the hard-edged pounding style of many young pianists with a traditional hard swinging disposition.

Fans into smooth jazz and fusion were well taken care of by the Yellowjackets on Friday, with guest stars Hargrove, Elling and blues guitarist Robben Ford.  On Sunday afternoon, trumpet player Chris Botti showed that his type of smooth is heavily influenced by Miles Davis. He played a lovely Davis-tinged version of “My Funny Valentine,” followed by “Flamenco Sketches” from Miles’ famous “Kind of Blue”album.

Botti was accompanied by two fine back-up men –pianist Billy Child and guitarist Mark Whitfield, who, along with assist Tim Lefevbre and drummer Billy Kilson , created fireworks with their back and forth trades. They kept the group firmly entrenched in a deep jazz groove.

Saturday afternoon is always time for the blues at Monterey. Keb Mo and Bonnie Raitt were the featured performers, but proceedings got off to a fervid start by McCollough Sons of Thunder, a gospel group from Harlem. Featuring five trombones and a tuba, along with the joyous shouting of leader Edward Babb, the ensemble’s wall of sound had the audience singing responses and clapping with abandon. Raitt finishing off the afternoon had them dancing in the aisles.

Worth mentioning also was the precision music-making of the Clayton-Hamilton Band, Friday night. It was a sight to see conductor John Clayton, arms outstretched like a condor’s wings, lifting every nuance of his arrangements from 18 musicians. And then there was the MJF debut of young Irish singer Christine Tobin who weaved her spell with innovative takes on  Dylan’s “Shelter in the Storm “ and Leonard Cohen’s “Everybody Knows.”

As always one of the big “problems” at Monterey is what to see and when, and this was particularly true this year. For example, the impeccable drummer Jeff Hamilton and his trio were playing on the Bill Berry Stage Saturday, while Charles Lloyd was on the Lyons Stage at the same time. Even more frustrating–the highly touted vocal stylist Gambarini was in Dizzy’s Den, while organ favorite Dr. Lonnie Smith played on the Berry Stage all at 9 p.m. Sunday–both up against the formidable Peterson. Oh my, what’s a jazz fan to do?

Next September is the festival’s 50th anniversary, so we look forward to an even bigger occasion. For information: Monterey Jazz Festival, (952) 275-9255 or www.montereyjazzfestival.org For Asilomar: (831)372-8016 or www.visitasilomar.com

Photos by Gail Taylor

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