|
Fun for All Ages at Quebec’s Winter CarnivalBy Valerie SummersWhat began more than a half century ago as an event to excite locals with some outdoor fun in the snow has evolved into an international celebration of the winter season. Quebec City’s 17 day Winter Carnival keeps getting better and better each year. As I walked through old town and Carnival’s many venues, I passed hundreds of colorfully bundled up, pink cheeked revelers of all ages eager to participate in the event’s activities. A definite bonus were the locals who extended the warmest hospitality to their visitors during this frostiest of seasons.
Opportunities for tobogganing, snowshoeing, and snowmobiling abound with the city directly linked to the18,000 mile Trans-Quebec network of groomed snowmobile trails.
Eager to try out night skiing, one evening I headed for Stoneham, situated 20 minutes from Quebec City. My first view was of four snowy runs, lit up by rows of telephone pole high floodlights, making the slopes appear bathed in sunlight. The freshly fallen snow made for a great downhill ski experience schussing down the wide open slopes. Since the resort is nestled in a valley, it is protected from wind, adding to the comfort of skiers. Stoneham features 32 trails spread over four mountains but at night, 16 lighted trails covering nearly 10 miles are available for moonlight skiing. For daytime skiers with young children, a day care center watches after les enfants up until 5p.m. A variety of Stoneham’s après ski venues include outdoor hot tubs and a varied selection of dining choices including a casual cafeteria , elegant Feu Follet restaurant, Le Bar 4 Foyers for disco and live band entertainment and a genuine English style pub in the midst of French speaking Canada.
Back at the entrance, next to the reception desk, N’Ice Club Mont-Tremblant rocked with disco music while guests sidled up to the ice bar to drink their favorite cocktail from a square shaped, hollowed out “glass.” Some couples and children danced under the changing lights, while others enjoyed sipping their drinks in private alcoves, the ice seating covered with animal skins. One of the most exquisite rooms in the Ice Hotel was the Chapel, complete with stained glass windows and a carved ice alter on which candelabras and an open bible also of ice stood. Piped in organ music rounded out this magical experience where several couples have tied the marital knot, many coming from other countries to be wed in the unique venue.
For information: Quebec City Tourism Carnaval de Quebec Ice Hotel-Quebec-Canada Adventure Inukshuk Hotel Royal William Canada Photos: Valerie Summers |
|
TM
On the snowy Plains of
Abraham, the 9th largest urban park in the world, where many of the
celebration’s activities take place, I witnessed a competition with participants
pushing their canoes up and down a hilly, snowy, obstacle course. I discovered
this event was but a prelude to the real thing which took place later on the
partially frozen Saint Lawrence River. Robust teams, both men and women, with
one leg generally inside of the canoe and the other outside, pushed off on the
snow and ice while fighting the river’s strong current. Crowds gathered all
along the river bank, cheering the energetic canoers on as they worked their way
from the protected inlet of Bassin Louise onto the powerful current of the river
making their way from Quebec City to Levis and back.
Another crowd pleasing event, La
Grande Viree Dog Sled races, had revelers lining the winding streets of the
historic Old City where eager dogs and their mushers raced from the legendary
Fairmont Chateau Frontenac hotel, continuing on to the Plains of Abraham and
then back to the starting point. It looked like so much fun that I decided that
doing it must be even more fun than watching it. The next day I headed out to
Adventure Inukshuk, near the famous Ice Hotel, for an exciting jaunt through the
snowy woods pulled by seven huskies and one Alaskan racing dog while I acted as
musher and my colleague enjoyed passenger status.
Back in town, I rushed from venue to venue, attempting to
participate in as many events as possible in this, the third largest carnival
celebration in the world. Following the wild Rio de Janeiro and New Orleans
Mardi Gras festivities in scope, Quebec’s Carnival is a wholesome event
providing fun for the entire family. Tots, all snuggly in their strollers or
being pulled on small sleds, participated in many of the activities including
ice fishing where they were guaranteed to catch a real live fish. Youngsters
competed against one another in a soap box derby which had them zipping down one
of the main streets of this World Heritage Treasure.
Back on the Plains,
celebrants crowded on to giant horse-drawn sleighs for a ride around the snowy
landscape. Thrill seekers of all ages trudged up a hill awaiting their turn for
a rollicking ride down in a bright yellow rubber raft which spun like a carnival
ride. A delegation from Calgary cooked up a hearty western style breakfast free
of charge just outside the city gates while nearby, skaters glided across the
ice twirling and sometimes falling, but all delighting in this winter activity
at the Place d’Youville’s outdoor rink.
Snow sculpting, a major
component of carnival has been a part of Quebec life for many years. It was not
until 1950 that professional sculptors began creating their works of art along
with amateurs and children. In 1973, the International Sculpture Event was
formed and since that time more than 50 teams representing 30 countries apply to
enter the event each year. However, only 20 teams are selected to participate.
These entries are truly intricate works of art which appear to be white marble
creations. Viewers of all ages paused in their day of activity to view the
unique ice sculptures. And all through the town, fanciful ice sculptures made
by locals and children added to the ambience.
Always a favorite event, the
well-attended annual evening parade featured allegoric floats, marching bands
and colorful clowns with the Carnival’s ambassador, Bonhomme, a giant snowman
sporting a red hat and special arrowhead sash, closing the parade on his unique
float. Another favorite evening happening was “La Surboom” an outdoor dance
party held at Bonhomme’s Palace of Ice, across from Quebec’s Parliament
Building, which kept revelers dancing until the wee hours.
Bonhomme’s home paled in comparison
to my next stop at the world famous, magical Ice Hotel where I spent one night.
A high wall of packed snow surrounded the hotel. I entered into a courtyard
through an opening guarded by a uniformed gentleman and crossed into the hotel
through high wooden doors. That was the last I saw of any material other than
ice and snow during my stay. The entrance featured a carved ice reception desk,
which was just for show. Guests check in a short walk away at Pavillon l’Aigle
where they stow their belongings in oversized lockers and are offered a brief
lesson in how best to use the sleeping gear provided for each overnight guest.
Back at the Ice Hotel’s entrance, straight ahead, I viewed sculptures
representing the North Pole and South Pole and above, an enormous chandelier
which appeared to be made of crystal hung from an 18 foot ceiling. The entire
lobby entrance continually changed colors, with the chandelier always appearing
in a contrasting color to the rest of the room. Directly ahead, I ventured
through a doorway carved in the shape of a vodka bottle and entered the Absolute
Ice Bar where the warmly dressed bar tender was pouring various vodka drinks
into ice glasses.
Touring the 34 individually themed
private bedrooms and suites felt like being in giant rooms of Lalique crystal
with carved snow and sparking ice forming the ethereal bed designs, wall decor
and other furniture. Several rooms featured two queen sized beds appropriate
for couples with children. For all guests, a stay in the Hotel de Glace Ice
Hotel is a magical experience, a memorable finale for the entire family
participating in Quebec City’s exciting winter Carnival.