Knoxville: Railgating on the River

By Robert Painter

Imagine the last day of summer - the first day of fall.  A perfect evening for football surrounded by 102,000 rabid fans all decked out in orange.  Where else would you be but Neyland Stadium at the University of Tennessee?  This is not a "football" story, but football is surely an important part of Knoxville.

I came to Knoxville to explore the city. I wanted to walk about and see the sights and explore the nooks and crannies.  My beautiful room at the Crowne Plaza overlooked Market Square which seems to be the center of activities in downtown Knoxville.  There are excellent restaurants and quaint little boutiques surrounding the large open area of the square.  I was told that Shakespeare occasionally appears on the stage at one end of the square, but he was out of town during my visit.  Or maybe he was sleeping late and I just missed him.

If shopping is on your list of things to do when you visit a new city you won't be disappointed here.  My suggestion is that, having toured Market Square, walk a block over to Gay Street for one of the most unusual shops you're likely to find anywhere.

The Mast General Store stocks a lot of the things you may have thought had long since disappeared.  Do you remember Necco Wafers, Bit-O-Honey, Horehound Root Beer Barrels, B.B.Bats, Abba Zabba or Gummi Bears?  They have them all and lots, lots more. Besides the old fashioned candy, you'll find maple syrup, stone ground meal, Amish rockers, John Deere and Coke collectibles, and lots of old time toys and games.

You'll even find a travel and outfitters section with North Face, Columbia, Swiss Army, Leatherman and lots of other brand you'll recognize.  I found a great pair of Carhartt hiking shorts so cheap I don't think I should even mention the price - 50% off the marked down sale price!  In addition, there is a full service shoe department in the basement.

While you're in the neighborhood, walk a few blocks down Gay Street and visit the newly renovated Tennessee Theater.  This historic movie palace from the 20's retains the original "Mighty Wurlitzer" pipe organ and is worth touring even if you not there to see a classic movie or other production.

If you happen to be a basketball fan you will find the Women's Basketball Hall of Fame absolutely fascinating.  Just look for the giant Baden basketball on the roof and you'll know you're there.  You can even shoot a few hoops while you're there.  And, you can do it on a modern court or an old fashioned, early days court, with a different ball, basket and court set-up.

Knoxville is a walking city as far as I'm concerned, but if you're not an avid walker just hop on and off the Fare Free Knoxville Trolley.  There are several lines that overlap so you can tour much of the city - the Visitor's Guide offers a great little map with the attractions, hotels and trolley lines well marked and easy to identify.

Remember that the 1982 World's Fair was held here and keep an eye out for the Sunsphere - it will help keep you oriented and heading in the right direction. You can ride the elevator to the observation lounge and get a fine view of Knoxville and the Tennessee River.

I didn't have time for it, but the Star of Knoxville stern-wheel paddleboat looks like a good way to enjoy a scenic cruise on the Tennessee River.  The river also offers an unusual way for tailgaters to party before the big game.  The river runs alongside Neyland Stadium and many of the locals arrive in their boats, tie up alongside each other and enjoy each others company right up until game time when they walk off their boats, up a small hill and into the stadium.

I wouldn't want you to miss the bronze statue of Alex Haley.  It's the largest sculpture of an African-American citizen in the U.S.  And it is deceptively large.  Have your photo taken next to it and you'll see what I mean.  You can even sit on the book he's holding and you'll really look tiny!

The Alex Haley sculpture may be your first hint that Knoxville does not ignore the arts.  From the annual Kuumba Festival (showcasing art, dance, theatre, music, etc. of African-American heritage) to the Knoxville Symphony Orchestra offering upwards of 200 programs every season to the museums, festivals and art galleries you'll quickly see that there is a rich appreciation for the arts in Knoxville.

If you don't just happen to be traveling through Knoxville on Labor Day you might want to make it a point to plan a special trip to view the largest Labor Day weekend fireworks display in the nation.  This Boomsday event as it is called must be spectacular. Several people made it a point to tell me about the fireworks waterfall that comes off the Henley Street Bridge.  I can't tell you anymore than that because I haven't seen it. But, it's now on my list of sights to see in the U.S.

If all the activity gives you reason to take a break, let me suggest that you relax at the East Tennessee History Center.  There are some exhibits there that will interest you, but you'll probably spend most of your time in the genealogy section where you can do a bit of research on your family tree.  This is the largest resource of its type in the Southeast U.S.  The computer system is free and easy to use.  They'll even give you some instruction if you need it.  Just check out your history and, when you find what you want, press print and take home a copy of your own "Roots" for just a few cents.  It is fitting that this city where Alex Haley spent so much of his time should have such a fine facility.  I could have spent more time there, but wanted to get out and about and experience more of Knoxville.

I imagine you know that Tennessee is nicknamed the Volunteer State. But, do you know why? Tennessee was the first state to fill its quota of volunteer soldiers for the War of 1812.  And, even stronger evidence of the propriety of that nickname - when Congress asked for 2,800 men for the Mexican War, 30,000 volunteers signed up.  And that name is now carried forward by college athletes in Knoxville - the University of Tennessee Volunteers.

And now, back to the beginning of this little tale.  My visit culminated at a football game The evening began with a tailgate party - actually a railgate party on the Three Rivers Rambler, a vintage steam engine train that operates a 90 minute ride through the beautiful rolling hills around Knoxville.  But, for the railgate party, the train was stationary and on its tracks at the base of the hill below Neyland Stadium.  The serving line was inside one of the cars and the food was consumed on the open platform car adjoining.  This was real Tennessee barbecue - outstanding ribs, juicy chicken breasts and Bud light beer served up in bright orange bottles with a football lacing pattern on both sides.  It was a final opportunity to get better acquainted with my traveling companions from the previous two days.  I now have some wonderful new friends from Atlanta, Tallahassee, Georgia, Tennessee and other points east of Albuquerque.

And, oh yes, the game.  It was a spectacle deserving of the visit.  While not a sell-out, I think you might agree that 102,000 fans for a non conference game with a lower division team is certainly a tribute to the loyalty of the Vols fans.  The underdogs hung in till the final quarter and should be commended for their spirit. How many small teams ever play before a packed stadium of over one hundred thousand partisan fans?

There is a lot more to Knoxville that I didn't tell you about.  I'm out of space and some of Knoxville I just didn't have time to experience.  Country music, nearby outdoor activities, the Knoxville Zoo, the Smokies - you'll just have to go see it for yourself!

When You Go:

For lots of information about Knoxville and the surrounding area contact the Knoxville Tourism & Sports Corporation:   www.knoxville.org.    Ask for a visitor's guide.

Don't miss it - the Mast General Store: www.MastStoreOnline.com

Women's Basketball Hall of Fame: www.wbhof.com,

Free Trolley & Bus info: www.katbus.com.

Story & by Robert Painter