Under Maui’s Deep Blue

by Jamie Ross

It was a perfect day on the water. Beneath a cloudless sky the ocean was a deep blue. We anchored the dive boat in the calm waters of a sheltered bay next to a large pinnacle of lava rock that jutted from the sea, some 100 metres from the shores of Lunai. This renowned Hawaiian dive location is known as Cathedral 1. When we hit the water, we quickly found out why.

A chimney-shaped cone of lava rock rises from the ocean floor, 50 feet to the surface. It resembles a divine sanctum, a churchly chamber with glorious archways and beams of heavenly light spotlighting the interior. The divers float through a sweeping coral arch, and enter a roomy undersea chamber lit by light filtering through fissures in the rocky dome ceiling.

It is a secret place, awe-inspiring and spiritual. We spend some time floating weightlessly around the interior of the cathedral, watching our bubbles rise, caught in the pinpoints of light. Colourful fish swim amongst us, seemingly unperturbed by our intrusion. A small oval porthole leads out of the chamber, We ready ourselves, grasping the rocky sides, until the surge of the sea allows for our graceful exit.

Around the outside of the lava spire, eels hide in broken crevasses. One Viper eel waves its brawny neck, with mouth open as a warning. The colour of the coral is of infinite variety; brown, white, pink, red, purple, and the shapes it took are marvellous. It was like a colourful garden, and a splendid variety of fish flittered through like butterflies. The water was dazzlingly clear, and where there was breaks in the corral, the ocean floor was white sand.

The dive master, Trent Welsh, suddenly darts after a retreating octopus, avoiding its inky spray. The octopus wraps itself around his hands. He passes it my way, and I let strange creature grasp my outstretched arm with it’s tentacles, while I stroke its velvety head. It is magnificent and graceful, and surges quickly away when released, burying itself beyond view in the sandy ocean bottom.

Over 2,000 miles from any continent or major island group, the Hawaiian islands are the most isolated island chain in the world. Being so isolated, it is no wonder that nearly one-third of Hawaii’s marine life can be found nowhere else in the world. At least this is what I’ve been told. Not being a marine biologist, (I’m a land-locked Canadian), I head to The Maui Ocean Centre, at Ma’alaea Harbour, which has become the hub of marine education in Hawaii by offering a curriculum of intriguing educational programs.

The 20 million dollar, state of the art facility opened in 1998 as the largest tropical reef aquarium in the western Hemisphere. It provides information, tours by marine naturalists, and exhibits on thousands of indigenous fish, sharks, turtles, stingrays and other fascinating marine animals. The three acre marine park strives to foster understanding, wonder and respect for Hawaii’s ocean life, while also teaching visitors about Maui’s natural history and cultural heritage.

For a truly unique scuba experience, the Maui Ocean Center allows experienced divers to descend into the 750,000 gallon Open Ocean Exhibit, to come face to face with sharks, stingrays, and hundreds of tropical fish. With friends and family watching through the glass of the exhibit’s viewing area, divers have their own personal encounter with sandbar, blacktip, whitetip, grey reef, and the occasional tiger shark. The two hour program and 30 minute underwater adventure cost $190.

Not a diver? - visitors can also find wonderful snorkelling opportunities around the 120 linear miles of Maui’s ragged shoreline, or out on her colourful reefs. A morning drive to Ulua Beach in Wailea offers the unique opportunity to snorkel the colourful ocean reef with a knowledgeable naturalist from the Pacific Whale Foundation. He is able to let you know exactly what you are seeing, giving names to the vast variety of tropical fish and the urchins that live on the coral.

We see snow flake eels peering from small holes in the rock. Puffer fish swim with us through a colourful array of Racoon Butterflyfish, Sailfin Tang, Spotted Boxfish and Surgeonfish. A Kona Crab scurries across the ocean floor. We are able to hold Red Slate sea urchins, their fleshy spines wavering and their underside gripping our palms.

Another learning experience comes with a trip out on the Pacific Whale Foundation’s Ocean Odyssey to do some snorkelling at Molokini (which is busy and slightly over-rated) and turtle watching at Turtle Town (which is not). The PWF excursions have the reputation of being great for children, even taking them aside during the voyage for an educational talk, with the chance to become a certified Junior Marine Naturalist.

For those who prefer to enjoy the marine life without getting wet, a trip down to 150 feet aboard an Atlantis Submarine in Lahaina allows for another fascinating look at Maui’s under-sea world. An onboard naturalist gives a very humourous and informative presentation, while huge stingrays wing past, garden eels wave their slender necks in the ocean current, and thousands of colourful fish dart amongst the corral, taking little notice of the giant tube that has invaded their privacy. The crystal clear Maui waters, and the oversize portals allow for excellent views of the marine life.

While many visitors come to Maui, the second largest of the Hawaiian Islands, to sunbathe on one of her 81 beaches, I am always drawn beyond the sand, into and under her deep blue sea.

Where to Stay: The Kamaole Sands in Kihei is perfect and practical for families - condos surround a grassy courtyard filled with palm trees, lush gardens, and a bolder-strewn waterfall. There is a beautiful pool area - two hot tubs, a kids pool, regular pool, restaurant, and information centre hedged by stone walls, tropical plants, and flagstone decking. The views from the terra cotta, villa style condos are always south to the sea, for an early sunrise, or a spectacular Maui sunset. Fresh fish or Maui ribs can be prepared, and an elaborate outdoor picnic set, at one of the six barbecue areas. For the energetic, there are the resort’s tennis courts, or miles of superb white sand beaches to walk or run. www.CastleResorts.com

Maui Adventures Under the Deep Blue

The Maui Dive Shop
www.mauidiveshop.com
(808) 879-1775

The Maui Ocean Center
www.mauioceancenter.com
info@mauioceancentre.com
(808) 279-7000

Pacific Whale Foundation
www.pacificwhale.org
education@pacificwhale.org
(808) 249-8811

Atlantis Submarines
www.atlantisadventures.com
1-800-548-6262

www.visitmui.com <

Images by Jamie Ross