PC Sans Skis

by Barclay Nelson

I’ve lost count of the number of days that the temperature has been over 100 degrees this summer.  My mind wanders to more temperate places, taunted by thoughts of winter.  Maybe you’re thinking the same thing.  Well, I’ve got a little trip I want to tell you about that may get your wheels spinning towards winter vacation and get your mind off Saunatown for a spell.  If you’re a skier, you’ve probably skied Colorado, maybe that’s the only place you’ve skied.  Well, how about an alternative that has all the amenities, massive mountains, more snow and its own little vibe that might offer you a something more akin to your style and M-O?  It’s a little more laid back, developed but not overrun and less than an hour from a major airport.  It’s got all the local flavor and artisanry you’d expect in a western town and as much luxury as you do or don’t want.  You might spot Robert Redford there.  It’s home to the Sundance Film Festival, the only ski-in whiskey distillery in the world, and has three huge ski resorts in close proximity.  Let’s go on a speed PC tour, Park City that is, home to year round recreation and movie stars (as Jed Clampett might croon).  I was hosted for slam packed four day speed tour that might help you plan your escape from sweat to snow.

The Vibe

Park City is generally a bit more laid back that its Colorado cousins and I found it simpler to connect with the city and it’s people.  It’s full of transplants from all over which makes for a welcoming community.  The Sundance Film Festival Sundance Film Festival in the second half of January is a big deal and leaves a year round impression on the place.  It spans the spectrum from family friendly to spring break soiree. The town is substantial enough to entertain you and keep you busy off the slopes unlike a lot of ski resorts whose town’s are just too small to entertain your off slope necessities.  While the city has exceeded the critical mass necessary to make for a convivial and merry town, it isn’t too large.  You can’t easily navigate it and quickly fill your quiver of potential watering holes and eateries with options that will satiate each of your moods.

Sans Skiing Menu

Every ski resort talks about their skiing, many of them are great.  Since there are many great mountains to ski, I think it’s the non-skiing elements that make a place great, that make you want to come back again.  It’s the non-skiing elements that’ll make you want to visit in winter or summer. I’ll tell you some of what was on my agenda hoping that it’ll give you some food for thought for your trip.  <

Fly fishing: I fly fished the Provo River a short drive outside of Park City.  You might be surprised to know that you can fish in winter.  The Provo< doesn’t freeze over and has steady flows all year round.  It snowed when I went and it was warmer than I thought it would be.  My guide, Erik Hufnagle, was a champ and got me on to good water and good action. You’ll be fishing for browns, rainbows some cutthroats.  I booked him through All Season Adventures.  888-649-9619, info@allseasonsadventures.com.  All Seasons has a plethora of activities for summer and winter.

Snowmobiling: Deere Valley Resort owns a park that it uses for snowmobile tours, it was a trip.  Call Summit Meadows Adventures, (435) 645-SNOW, marketing@deerevalley.com.

Guided or Unguided Nighttime Snowshoeing: I was taken onto the Deere Valley slopes with the Sno Cats and finished up with a late dinner at Fireside Dining. There are seemingly endless places to snowshoe day and night in and around Park City.  White Pine Touring was great, www.whitepinetouriing.com, 435.649.8710, experts@whitepinetouring.com  for snow shoes and or guided tours.

The Trails: Speaking of snowshoeing trails, there’s 400 miles of walking, biking, snowshoeing, and running trails that are mapped and preserved through a cooperative between the city, residents and the privately funded Mountain Trails Foundation.

The Utah Olympic Park: This is a training center for ski jumping, bobsledding, luge and the skeleton.  Besides sport clinics, it has tours, ziplines and if you want a real rush you can sign up for a bobsled run pulling 4-5 g’s on a 60 second run, diapers included. There’s a great little museum inside as well and spectator acrobatic events put on by professional ski jumpers.  Visit www.olyparks.com, (435) 658-4200, reservations@olyparks.com

Park City Museum: Lots of interactive and historical fodder here, bring the kids.

Besides these, there are all the ski area essentials: spas, shopping, sleigh rides, snow tubing and kids activities, competitive events, galleries, horseback riding, ice skating, and hot air balloons.  Of note are the many options for disabled kids at the National Ability Center.

Gotta Talk About Skiing

I hadn’t skied in a long time but thankfully, my host Craig, strongly encouraged me to ski for half a day.  It was bliss, it all came back to me right away and I regretted not spending a full day.  There are three huge mountains to ski in Park City, all in close proximity.  The mountains are separately owned and managed.  Park City Mountain has a diversity of runs from beginner to expert, has an assortment of people, has a lot of snowboarders and hosts Xtreme events.  Deere Valley is posh and immaculately groomed, no snowboarders allowed, a variety of run types but probably not as advanced the other two mountains.  As for The Canyons, one person put it to me this way, “if Deere is the Wall Street Journal, The Canyons is USA Today”.  I was hosted by and skied The Canyons, it’s a big mountain with tons of trails (3700 acres).  I had skied Deere Valley and Park City before but had never skied The Canyons.  The skiing, the gourmet lunch and my hosts were splendid.  It makes sense that Ski and Skiing magazines rate The Canyons as a top ski resort in North America. 

The Feed

For vittles and cocktails you’ve got a great menu to choose from.  I’ll start by saying that you MUST MUST MUST try the lemonade at High West Distillery & Saloon.  Try it with their 21 year old Rocky Mountain Rye Whiskey or just have it straight up and the whiskey straight up for that matter.  The High West Distillery is a painstakingly rehabbed old house and horse stable, the first legal distillery in Utah since 1870 and the only ski-in distillery in the world. It’s right on Park Avenue and backs up to Park City Mountain.  The food is grillicious; ask your server about whiskey food pairings.

You also MUST go to Fireside Dining at Empire Canyon Lodge in Deere Valley, (800) 424-3337.  You’ll visit fireside stations of delectable European foods in a warm and cozy setting.  For good pizza try Sidecar and for a micro brewery and good brew food try Wasatch Brew Pub. 

If you’re skiing The Canyons go to the mid-mountain Lookout Cabin for lunch.  Your taste buds will thank you.  

Apres Feed - The 411 on bars:

No Name Saloon: local dive full of eclectic randomness

The Spur: contemporary western, cowhide leather and western groove, where the Mayor’s band plays, supposedly cougar town but wasn’t when I was there

Sidecar: mountain urban lounge

Downstairs: demi-celeb owned urban lounge, special DJ appearances

Oh Shuck’s: locals, shells on the floor, 32oz Schooners 

Harry O’s: clubbiest, DJ’s, all non locals

Lindzee O’ Michaels: Irish pub, ping pong, video games, large beer selection

Mulligan’s: Irish Pub, local crowd

Wasatch Brew Pub: make own beers, try their Polygamy Porter (you won’t settle for just one) or their White Ale.

Sky Bar: in Sky Lounge, swanky mellow outdoor patio, tiki torches

High West Distillery & Saloon – For the whiskey connoisseur, I repeat, try their lemonade or one of their lemonade cocktails.

Gearhead

I rented my skis at Destination Sports, 800-259-6039, www.destinationsports.com, dinoadv@xmission.com, great selection and service and located right in town.  All Season Adventures, has guides and gear for just about any activity (888) 649-9619, info@allseasonsadventures.com.

Boiling it all down

It’s summer, I’m hot, you’re hot.  Now’s the time to plan your winter vacation or if you can’t wait, Park City is a great spot to visit now.  Either way it should offer some emotional if not physical relief from the heat.  To learn more about Park City visit http://www.parkcity.org/,  http://www.parkcity.com/ , or http://www.parkcityinfo.com/.

Barclay Nelson is a freelance journalist that writes about outdoor and urban experiences. Read his stories on www.travellady.com, www.carladynews.com and www.cocktailatlas.com.

Disclaimer: I was hosted by the Park City Chamber of Commerce who arranged my schedule and paid for some of my activities.  Other services were discounted or comp’d by local business that sponsored my activities.  Those businesses are mentioned in this article.