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If You Like Art, You'll Love New Orleans
Cajun Cuisine and art galleries abound in New
Orleans
By Arvin Steinberg
When the city of New Orleans is mentioned, what
thoughts come to mind? Jazz or The French quarter? Creole or Cajun cuisine?
Cast iron fences or maybe above ground cemeteries? Yes, New Orleans has all
is of that, but did you know that New Orleans is gaining a reputation as a
center for the visual arts?
There are approximately 200 art galleries in the metro
New Orleans area. And in August, 2003 two new major arts projects became
available to art enthusiasts in New Orleans.
First, on August 18, 2003 the Renaissance Arts Hotel
opened in the heart of the New Orleans historic Warehouse/Arts District. I
visited this amazing 217-room hotel during its first week of operation.
As I entered the marble lobby foyer, three colorful,
fun-filled hand blown glass, chandeliers immediately caught my eye. These
orange, yellow, and blue chandeliers were created by world-renowned glass
sculptor, Dale Chihuly. And, looking straight ahead past the chandeliers
against a blue tiled wall, are five oversized ginger flowers whose brass
petals first fill with water and then spill the water into a pool below.
This interesting creation is the work of New Orleans sculptor, Lin Emery.
Also on the ground floor of the hotel is a 2,000 square
foot art gallery of sculptures and paintings, all abstract impressions. The
first exhibition includes works by the late New Orleans sculptor, Ida
Kohlmeyer. The exhibitions will rotate every two months.
There is also a sculpture garden on the second floor of
the hotel in an atrium with skylights. It was here that I spoke with Arthur
Roger, whose Arthur Roger Gallery is considered one of the finest
contemporary art galleries in New Orleans. Rogers told me that “Ten years
ago people would have made fun of a contemporary art hotel. People are more
open now. Art is something people want in their lives.” Roger commissioned
works from several fine artists to complete the décor of the hotel.
The carpeting throughout the hotel is brilliant with
all shades of blue, gold, red, and green fantastically displayed in all
shapes and designs.
The hotel’s La Cote Brasserie is a hot new seafood
restaurant featuring the talents of acclaimed chef, Richard “Bingo” Starr,
formerly the executive chef at Cuvee in New Orleans. My dinner at the
Brasserie was wonderful. The seafood offerings by Chef Starr are
exceptional. The Yellowfin Tuna Carpaccio with Caponata relish was superb
What also makes the hotel so exceptional is that it is
within walking distance of the French Quarter, only seven blocks, and about
four blocks from Harrah’s casino.
Harrah’s is the only land-based casino in Louisiana.
The casino is huge. And even if you don’t care to play the games of chance,
Harrah’s offers an outstanding buffet for $13.13 until 4 p.m. and $21.95
after 4 p.m.
In addition to being present for the opening of the
Renaissance Arts Hotel, a few days later on August 23, 2003, I witnessed the
opening of the magnificent Ogden Museum of Southern Art, University of New
Orleans. This is a five-story 67,000 square foot modern structure also
located in the New Orleans historic Warehouse/Arts District. At the opening
ceremonies, many of the artists whose works appeared in the inaugural
exhibition “The Story of the South: Art and Culture, 1890-2003” were on hand
to be recognized and also to be available to visitors to explain and answer
questions about their art on exhibit. It was delightful to be able to
discuss the wonderful works of art with the artists themselves.
The Ogden Museum of Southern Art is the first museum in
Louisiana to be affiliated with the Smithsonian Institution. Here you will
find the largest and most comprehensive assemblage of Southern art in the
world. The core of the museum’s collection are 1,200 works from New Orleans
businessman and philanthropist Roger H. Ogden’s nationally-respected private
collection made available to the University of New Orleans Foundation in
1994. Since Mr. Ogden’s original donation, the museum’s collection has more
than doubled to over 2,750 works including Southern art from 15 Southern
states and the District of Columbia.
The Ogden Museum certainly enhances the growing
national recognition of Southern art. It tells the story of the South – its
past, present, and into the future. I especially enjoyed watching an
excellent video in a theater at the museum. The video explained how Southern
art reflects the culture of the South from small town community life to the
traditions of big cities. How Southern art is about history and memory, not
concentrating on possessions, but rather on whom Southerners are. From
family reunions to football games, from hard times, accepting change,
sometimes slowly, to celebration and spirit.
The inaugural exhibition does all of that. It takes
visitors on a visual journey through time in the South, tracing the history
of the agrarian South through World War I, the Great Depression, the Jazz
Age, the Civil Rights era, and into contemporary works.
Southern art is unique. It is interesting. It is
memorable. For example, I particularly liked one sculpture at the museum
that was done by New Orleans native, Willie Birch. It is entitled “Going
Home.” The sculpture depicts an African American family that migrated north
and now, with bags packed, is going back home to the South.
And, art abounds throughout New Orleans. The luxurious
Windsor Court Hotel, an Orient-Express Hotel, just a few blocks from the
French Quarter, has one of the most outstanding assemblies of British art
outside of a museum. The collection has been valued at eight million
dollars, and murals valued at one and one-quarter million dollars are now
being completed in the hotel’s Grill Room.
There are several wonderful paintings in the lobby of
the hotel, such as “Charles II’s Last Sunday” by artist W. P. Frith, and
“Portrait of the Prince of Wales and His Sister” by artist Nicolas de
Largilliere.
Although I wasn’t staying at the hotel, I enjoyed
having a cocktail in Le Salon just off the lobby where I listened to live
jazz and could view the many paintings including “Queen Victoria on
Horseback” by artist Thomas Thornycroft.
Just a couple of blocks from the Windsor Court Hotel
and Harrah’s casino is an outstanding exhibit that I would recommend as a
“must see” while in New Orleans. It’s not an art exhibit, but it is
beautiful, interesting, educational, and lots of fun for the entire family.
It’s the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas.
The aquarium begins on the first floor of this modern
building where you walk through the “Caribbean Tunnel”. In this tunnel,
hundreds of multi-colored exotic Caribbean fish are not only swimming on
both sides of you, but also overhead. After visiting the colorful fish of
the “Caribbean Reef”, you continue to the second floor and through the
“Amazon Rain Forest” where brilliantly colored Macaws are on perches
overhead. This lush recreation of a tropical rainforest is the habitat for
Piranha and other amazon fish.
The walking tour then takes you through a penguin
exhibit of two species of swimming penguins, a touch-pool where you can pet
a baby shark, a collection of electric eels, a unique seahorse exhibit, an
exhibit of frisky swimming sea otters, and an eye-level view of Louisiana’s
native white alligator as you stroll among moss covered cypress trees.
The tour concludes on the first floor with one of the
largest collections of jellyfish in the country, and a shark tank where big
sharks are on the prowl in the “Gulf of Mexico “ exhibit.
If you will be in New Orleans for just a few days, I
would also recommend the two-hour “Super City Bus Tour” offered by Gray Line
Tours for $24.00. I thoroughly enjoyed the bus tour. It gave me an
appreciation of the entire city and an opportunity to see parts of the city
that most visitors would not see.
The bus tour begins in the French Quarter. The tour
guide points out the landmarks and architecture that made New Orleans
famous. The bus stops for a walking tour of the St. Louis Cemetery N0. 3
where the above ground burial system is explained. The tour continues to and
through the immense 1,500 acre City Park where the New Orleans Museum of Art
is located and on to the beautiful homes in the suburbs and to Lake
Pontchartrain. The campuses of Tulane University and Loyola University are
also on the tour as well as the exclusive Garden District.
There are many fine restaurants in New Orleans, but I
especially enjoyed Brennan’s Restaurant at 417 Royal Street. Where else, but
in New Orleans can a restaurant be famous for breakfast? Breakfast at
Brennan’s is world famous. My selection at breakfast at Brennan’s was Eggs
Sardo, a tasty creation of pouched eggs, spinach and hollandaise sauce. And
to top off the sumptuous cuisine, one of the waiters, Kevin Rouchell , an
accomplished opera singer, sang two enchanting arias for a magnificent
finale to my breakfast and my visit to New Orleans.
For more information about New Orleans, call the New
Orleans Convention and Visitors Bureau at 800-672-6124 or log on to
www.neworleanscvb.com
Photos by Phyllis Steinberg
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