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Off the Beaten Track in Central SwitzerlandLake Lucerne – lake of the Four Forest CantonsBy Caroline M. Jackson
Switzerland Tourism: http://www.MySwitzerland.com Tell-Pass: http://www.info@tell-pass.ch Swiss Travel System: http://www.rail.ch Klewenalp: http://www.klewenalp.ch Weggis Tourism: http://www.weggis.ch Hotel Albana: http://www.albana-weggis.ch Images by Hamish M. Jackson Email: crestlyn@axionet.com |
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Following in the footsteps of novelist Mark Twain, my
husband and I found ourselves in the Swiss lakeside village of Weggis which
the writer described as being “The charmingest place we have ever lived in
for repose and restfulness.” Located on Lake Lucerne, it is an ideal spot
for those who enjoy tranquility, yet want to be linked to the Swiss
transport system. 
Most guidebooks focus on the nearby city of Lucerne,
but on this visit, my mandate was to scratch below the surface and explore
lesser-known areas favored by both visitors and locals alike. Plans for our
first day had to be somewhat curtailed as a delay in our Trans Atlantic
flight meant that we were in Switzerland sans baggage. Thus on a scorching hot day, we found ourselves warmly dressed
in travel-worn crumpled clothes. The cool lakeside Lido beckoned, the
snow-capped mountains glistened, but with neither swimsuit nor hiking boots,
we decided there was only one solution – to ‘cool it’ and venture
underground. Following directions from the local Weggis tourist office, we
took a lake steamer to the adjacent village of Vitznau. Turning our backs on
the water, we plodded uphill towards the rock face behind which lay a hidden
bunker. One of thousands of such bastions, the Vitznau Artillery Fortress
had been built during World War II and kept top-secret until 16th May 2001.
Puffing like a cogwheel locomotive – we had been told it was just a short
walk – our guide, Pius Zimmermann, turned up in his Matchbox-sized car, not
a minute early or a minute late. A knowledgeable gentleman who lived and
breathed Swiss military history, he unlocked the gigantic door and we
followed him into a dark, alien world. The drop in temperature from 25 to 12
degrees Centigrade made me shiver, but I soon warmed up as we briskly walked
along the 553-metre-long corridors. The tunnels wended below the dry Rigi
escarpment so it was surprisingly not dank. The Swiss had prepared for every
eventuality should there have been a German invasion – wells of filtered
glacial water, storehouses of food for 120 men, bunk-style dormitories with
wall-bracketed candles to monitor oxygen levels, floor to ceiling stashes of
armaments and medical facilities including an operating room.
Today many of these bunker sites which were expropriated by
the Swiss Army around 1942 are being auctioned off. Some purchasers are
using the caverns to store wines while others looking for a Swiss Army
experience, are staying overnight. I didn’t volunteer and was glad to return
to the caress of the warm sunlight. On returning to the Hotel Albana in
Weggis, we were delighted to find that the airline had forwarded our cases
from Heathrow Airport. Once back in our room, we pounced on our precious
belongings like kids opening presents on Christmas day.
The next morning, comfortably decked out in our walking
attire, we headed to the Weggis tourist office to join Heidi who for a
nominal sum, escorts visitors on local walks. A bit like the Pied Piper, she
has an ardent following of enthusiasts who join her on lakeside, mountain or
country farm outings. Our destination was
across the lake to Klewenalp (pronounced Klaivenalp). We had visited the
area the previous year, but a heavy mist had enshrouded us and all we had
seen were some Billy goats that butted us along the mountain path. This
time, the weather was glorious. An early morning lake steamer shuttled our
little group across Lake Lucerne to the tiny town of Beckenried where a
gondola whisked us to Klewenalp at 1593 meters. While we paused to take some
beside the marmot sanctuary, Heidi assured us: “I’m not a typical
flag-waving tour guide with a red umbrella. This is NOT a race.” Our scenic
route took us through buttercup-strewn meadows and past music box-style
chalets. Every so often I came face to backside with a Swiss cow that turned
and stared 
at me with liquid brown eyes. I
might also look doleful if I had to wear such a big bell round my neck. By
noon, with the sun beating down on us, we stopped at a pristine picnic spot
where we drank copious amounts of water and ate our fresh Emmenthal and ham
rolls. From here it was a shady walk through a pine forest to Stockhutte
where the rest of the group disappeared into the café to enjoy a slice of
delicious looking apple strudel. Wanting to maximize our Swiss Pass,
however, we went our separate way in favor of taking a more circuitous
return journey via gondola, yellow post bus and funicular down to the
lakeside village of Treib.
Over the next few days, we took several easy walking
trips after coordinating our plans with the tourism office and getting free
detailed transport printouts from the boat station. Having a Swiss Pass or a
regional Tell-Pass for such a flexible itinerary is a real bonus. At Heidi’s
urging, we visited the Fronalpstock which is located above Urner See – the
southern arm of Lake Lucerne. On the last stage of our journey, we dangled
our feet from an open chairlift which glided over flower-carpeted meadows.
At the peak, a little wooden restaurant called The Hangover clung to the
edge of a steep escarpment overlooking the Alps and Lake Lucerne below. Fellow diners were locals enjoying beer and
bratwurst. The only sounds were the keening wind and the muted Swiss music
emanating from the kitchen. Our return journey via Stoos took us to Schwyz
which sits on the flanks of 2,000m twin peaks. The town is steeped in
history and boasts many colorful murals depicting noteworthy events from the
past. The nearby town of Ibach is the home of the famous Victorinox Swiss
Army knife. I purchased a Swiss Card for my wallet in their factory outlet,
but on departure I accidentally left it in my purse – an unwise move with
today’s tight security.
Most group tours from Lucerne head for Mt. Pilatus
(2129m) but another less crowded option, is a trip up the verdant
Stanserhorn (1898m). A vintage cable car complete with red curtains, then an
aerial cableway took us up to the revolving restaurant perched near
the summit. There’s something satisfying about
walking up to the peak even if you have cheated and taken transport most of
the way. This mountain was no exception and the 30-minute circular loop took
as past alpine plants, up to the peak. From here we watched gutsy
hang-gliders take off into valley below. It was such a clear day that we
could see all the way to the Black Forest in Germany.
Those seeking a loftier experience, can take the train
from Stans to Engelberg, then set out on the four-stage ascent to the top of
the Titlis (3239m). A highlight was our trip over the Titlis Glacier aboard
the world’s first revolving gondola. At the summit station, we followed the
signs to the Glacier grotto for an eerie but fun walk through the ice
tunnels. Once outside again, the sun was blinding and the frigid wind
reminded us of the elevation. Visitors from
many corners of the world slipped and laughed on the melting snow while
others sunbathed on the terrace. On our return journey, we stopped in Engelberg to visit the huge Benedictine Monastery. Situated on the floor of
a broad valley, the Baroque church with its many side altars is well worth a
visit. 
With the sands of time passing only too quickly, we
decided to abandon the mountains in favor of a little culture and headed
for the nearby lakeside town of Zug (pronounced Tzoog). From the train station, we walked along Lake Zug to the medieval
town center. The clocktower in Kolinplatz was a real eye catcher with its
tiled roof painted in blue and white cantonal colors. Feeling as though we were part of a storybook, we ambled along
the pedestrian-only medieval streets, past fountains and into St. Oswald’s
Gothic-style church.
With the sun still beating down, we opted to return to
Weggis by steamer zigzagging across the lake.
On inquiring about our ongoing travel plans, a concerned purser expressed
concern about our proposed boat/bus connections at Arth. Apparently our
steamer was five minutes behind schedule, so with little ado, she arranged
for the boat captain to radio the bus driver to ask him to wait for us. As
we disembarked, an ice cream cone was thrust into my hands – a present from
the boat Captain to the bus driver. We ran. The steamer gave a loud toot –
passengers waved, and we caught the bus. Dutifully, we gave the surprised
driver the cone, but it disappeared from sight. This puzzled me until I
noticed the sign above the windshield stating that eating and drinking were
verboten. This was, after all, Switzerland.