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Traipsing The Hot Spots Of Kuala TerengganuBy Jane Cassie
Malaysia’s state of Terengganu caresses the country’s east coast, and is blessed with a wealth of natural treasures ranging from exotic beaches to lush tropical groves. The South China Sea washes up onto its two hundred and twenty-five kilometers of sandy shores, and centrally perched is the coastal capital of Kuala Terengganu (kwä´le terĕng-gä´noo for those of us who gravitate phonetically).
Ancient shophouses teeter like drunken soldiers while hugging up to alleyways no wider than glorified bike paths. And beneath their dominating colonial archways are shuttered windows that peer onto hoards of historical relics.
Getting There: Malaysian Airlines is well recognized for its superlative service, cuisine and hospitality. (1-800-552-9264) www.malaysiaairlines.com.my/ Where To Stay: Things to Do: Tourism Malaysia: Jane is president of BC Association Of Travel Writers and can be contacted at janecassie@telus.net Images by Jane Cassie |
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Where
the heck is Kuala Terengganu, you ask? Although it took me only a few hours
to get my bearings in this quintessentially Malaysian fishing town, I still
have yet to say it correctly. With or without the proper pronunciation
though, it’s well worth the visit. 
From
the moment we touch down on the tarmac the feeling is laid back, slow paced
and free and easy. Vine-choked mangroves and vibrant bougainvillea catch
shade from palm fronds that border our route. Mingling amongst the lush
flora is a hodge-podge of Malay homes flaunting rooftops of corrugated
aluminum and windows masked with shutters. Many are tattered from years of
wear, and most are poised on stilts to prevent flooding, promote
ventilation, and to keep the creepy crawlies at bay.
Sandwiched
between the Terengganu River and the deep blue sea is the emergence of the
city’s slow growing hub. In spite of the occasional high rise, the pace
remains at a plod and the people are polite. “There’s very little crime
here,” our guide, Raja, reassures. “No pick pocketing, just peace-loving,”
he chuckles, with a gleaming grin. Customary beliefs are highly respected,
and with ninety percent of the population being Malay, (remaining are Indian
and Chinese) conservative attire in public places is a common courtesy and
alcohol availability is limited. 
Included
in our group of eighteen Canadians is my twenty-five year old daughter who
has a hankering for hawkers’ stalls. Needless to say, our first stop, while
traipsing the hot spots, is the Pasar Payang (central market), where every
square inch is crammed with a kaleidoscope of textiles and handicrafts.
“Bartering is totally expected,” Raja pre-warns. “Thirty percent off the
marked price is possible and forty is a steal. If you smile you may even get
more.” 
We
tromp the pencil thin corridors where dazzling displays of silks, songkets
(fabric for wedding gear), brasswares and rattan spill from brimming vendor
stalls, then mosey around mounds of mangoes, papaya and indigenous
prickly-skinned durian that emit a pungent scent. “Tastes like heaven,
smells like hell,” we are told by a man old enough to be my great
grandfather. Sweat glistens on his prune-wrinkled face as his machete whacks
the porcupine-like fruit in half to reveal a tasty treasure. “Here, Madam,
give it a try,” he says, while graciously handing over his hidden gem. I
humbly accept, and although I’m not totally sold on his slogan, I walk away
from the market with more loot than I can sensibly take home, grinning from
ear to ear.
Crossing
streets in Malaysia’s busier cities can be a bit like playing Russian
Roulette but we discover the three-block jaunt from this bargain lover’s
bazaar to Chinatown haunts is literally a breeze.
Ho
Ann Kiong Temple is one of the alluring artifacts that we explore. Beneath a
pagoda-shaped roof of vibrant hues, the intricately carved shrine is aglow
with small lights and vibrant red lanterns. Here, incense burns and prayer
is received. Although the temple has required rebuilding over the years, it
has exemplified the Chinese culture since its original structure in 1801. 
Another
lesson in history is provided during our visit to the Terengganu State
Museum. The complex sprawls over twenty-seven lush hectares and takes
the prize for being the largest in South East Asia. Pathways lead to
maritime and fisheries archives, as well as a display of traditional houses
where we glimpse into lifestyles from the past. The focal point, though, is
the museum’s main building, and behind its stilted Islamic exterior are ten
unique galleries showcasing everything from historical crafts to
contemporary arts. Although the goods are great for gawking at, there’s no
haggling here for homebound presents.
A
few kilometers away, though, at the Sutera Semai Centre, more opportunities
wait in store. Meters of detailed fabrics scallop the ceiling like colourful
schooner sails and beneath the billowing swathes there are artists hard at
work in a design process that has stood the test of time. “Outlines are
etched in pencil,” we are informed, “and after being traced with wax, the
dye is applied.” Although the craft of batik is a lot more complex than
paint by number, the artists have the proficient knack of quickly
transforming a bolt of raw silk into florally patterned shirts, scarves, and
handkerchiefs. We can’t escape without purchasing at least one of each. 
Our
final stop and literally high point of the day, is the two hundred meter
hike to the historical Bukit Puteri fortress. Although all that
remains on this picturesque perch are a few relics from the past, we are
provided with a panorama that encompasses the city limits, its silky shores
and tropical islets that lay beyond. Kuala Terengganu is a destination that
offers a wealth of culture, a variety of landscapes, and some mighty fine
shopping. And after a day of traipsing the hot spots we discover it’s
definitely worth a visit, whether you pronounce it properly or not.