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On Top of the World at Cathedral Lakes ParkBy Jane CassieThirty kilometers from the town of Keremeos and two thousand meters skyward, awaits Cathedral Provincial Park and sixty kilometers of the most heavenly hiking that you’ll find in BC. The 33,000-hectare (80,000-acre) mountain wilderness is splashed with azure lakes, cloaked with alpine meadows, and backed by some mighty majestic jagged peaks.
Although you might think hoofing to such a heady elevation would be a quest considered by only serious mountaineers, thanks to the convenient location of Cathedral Lakes Lodge, at 2050m (6,800 ft), even novice trekkers are able to partake. The journey to this divine destination actually commences at the park’s base camp where, after a twenty-two scenic kilometer drive through the Ashnola Valley, high country seekers rise up 1200m (3,900ft) via four wheel transporters to the shimmering oasis of Quiniscoe Lake.
Inclusion of all meals can be arranged upon reservation and both the head chef, Surya Misra and pastry chef, Karin Leja, have the gastronomic knack of satisfying even the heartiest alpine appetite. Some of the buffet specialties during our stay included succulent lamb that was delicately spiced with herbs, tender strips of beef prepared with a full-bodied curry, and a lemon-garnished salmon, done to Epicurean perfection. As well as serving home-baked granola, fresh fruit and yogurt, Chef entices with a full morning feast of pancakes, bacon, eggs…the works, and lunches are arranged on a dine-in or take-out-to-trek basis. A myriad of trails, well-marked by stone-piled cairns, leads to a full range of hiking options and a chain of seven-linked lakes that possess their individual allure. While Lake of the Woods snuggles in the shade of sub alpine greenery, the turquoise gem of Ladyslipper sparkles against its rugged granite embankments. Four of the wilderness wonders were well stocked with trout in the 1930's, and today the natural spawning promises abundant angling rewards that vary from pan-sized cutthroat to trophy-sized rainbow.
No matter what the route, all naturalists will be swept away by the bio diversity and splendor. The lower level terrain is lush with towering stands of Douglas fir that eventually thin out to outcroppings of Lodgepole pine. Englemann spruce and sub-alpine fir gather around the lodge site and the colourful alpine is attributed to the plethora of Lyall's larch, heather and lupines. The operating season runs from early June to mid October and ever-changing scenery evolves in each of its three stages. Those who visit early will be smitten by snow dusted trails and the blushing from new buds. Mid-season guests will ogle over the blaze of wildflowers that sweep the alpine meadows, and late comers will awe when the entire landscape becomes aglow in golden autumn hues. It comes as no surprise that, as well as attracting nature lovers, photographers are anxious and quick to click their shutters. Renowned Vancouver photographer, Jessica Taylor, provides an advanced opportunity each season as she shares her talent in capturing the area’s abundant wildlife and scenery. The three day program is limited to twelve students and the lessons in still life are long lasting and invaluable. When it came time to leave, we too lingered on our treasured memories collected over our two day stay, and agreed that as well as feeling on top of the world, Cathedral Lakes Park was probably the closest place to heaven on earth. Cathedral Lakes Lodge Images by Brent Cassie |
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“It’s like being on top of the world!”
I had exclaimed, as we took our final steps onto the rim trail where our
panoramic sights included distant summits of the Northern Cascades, and
Coastal Range. Although the vista was indeed a rewarding grand finale, the
entertainment en route had been as equally uplifting. Molting mountain
goats, California Bighorn sheep and large hoary marmots graced our rocky
rubble trail. They united with cooing ptarmigans, chirping chickadees and
the whistling sounds from timid picas. As well as exploring the massive rock
formations of ‘Stone City,’ we were in awe of the geological profile known
as Smokey the Bear, and with the offering of over thirty-six bird species
and five hundred kinds of plants, the adventurous ascent had been a feast
for the senses. 
Thick stands of spruce, fir and larch
enshroud the glistening gem, and snow-tipped peaks provide a breathtaking
backdrop. Varied accommodations that sprawl the shoreline include cozy log
hewn cottages, a modern day Mongolian yurt for the meditation-minded, a
horde of well groomed campsites and the grand focal point, a Bavarian-style
lodge that hosts half a dozen guest rooms. Here, a soothing hot tub waits to
offer therapeutic reprieve for strained and mountain-worn muscles, a
fireside lounge entices game lovers and bookworms, and three times a day the
clanging dining gong stimulates some serious salivation. 
Before escalating to what we deemed as
being the ‘top of the world’, we decided to build up our stamina by plodding
the less arduous five kilometer Diamond Trail, which showed an elevation
gain of two hundred and twenty-five meters. The green carpeted forest floor
bordered our well-trod path, and the interspersing of Indian paintbrush and
sunshine yellow buttercups in the alpine meadows created a picture postcard
setting. Similar caliber climbs can be explored by taking the tundra trails
that scoot off to Scout and Glacier Lake and the more advanced can be
challenged by inclines like The Boxcar, Lakeview and Quiniscoe Mountain.