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A Romantic Weekend in SalemMore than WitchesBy Paul Pence and Linda Eagleson
We visited Salem in the early spring, after the last snowfall but before the new leaves sprouted. Walking the cobblestone streets in the pre-season feels like a stroll through a village – distinctly different from the elbow-to-elbow crowds that jostle through Salem’s carnival-atmosphere every October. And unlike the busy season, an off-season weekend isn’t just for witches – it’s for sitting on the quay and imagining the old Yankee trader ships at harbor, for stopping in quiet antique shops and art galleries, for enjoying dinner overlooking the water, and for spending an evening in an antique four-poster bed with a blazing fire in the fireplace. Unhurried. Simple. Romantic.
Summers in Salem are busy, like many New England costal towns with a bit of history to relive. October is crowded and downright frantic, with thousands of people adding the town’s witch mystique to their Halloween celebrations. But in the off-season, Salem was spacious, feeling like a university town during spring break. Empty parking spaces stood vacant for us in front of uncrowded shops and attractions, where there wasn’t a single waiting line at the cash registers. Perfect for a romantic getaway.
We stayed in a beautiful room with hardwood floors, high ceilings, a four-poster bed topped with a quilt, a Jacuzzi bathtub big enough for two, and, most romantic of all, a fireplace that begged for us to snuggle in its flickering light. Of course there is more to the B&B than just the romantic room: a breakfast that featured juicy mouth watering fruit and a broad variety muffins and bagels, a fireplace in the main living room with smooth sherry waiting for the guests, and exquisite antique tables in the entry halls laden with candy dishes and magazines. Just as important, though not as romantic: easy parking, a kitchenette in our room, air conditioning, and cable TV. We could even have brought our dog with us had we called ahead to make arrangements. What do most people do during a romantic trip to Salem? If you haven’t been there before, you’ll probably want to visit the witch exhibits with their dark hallways and dimly lit rooms that can bring an unexpected scare and a hug for comfort. Among the best is the Witch Dungeon Museum around the corner from the Salem Inn, with a live reenactment of the witch trials and the cramped dungeon spaces the accused were forced to endure. Then, stroll downtown, peeking into shops to find “mystical” jewelry and “witchy” clothing. Once downtown, find the town’s graveyard behind the wax museum to do rubbings of weathered headstones.
In the evening, if your taste runs to fine dining or live music, there are many options near the Salem Inn. Or you can do what we did, spend the evening back in your room, cuddling in a plush four-poster bed while watching the red and yellow flames dance in the fireplace.
Links: Salem Inn Salem Wax Museum Maritime National Historic Site Salem Trolley House of the Seven Gables Peabody Essex Museum Witch Dungeon Museum Photos By Paul Pence Paul Pence and Linda Eagleson travel to romantic locations around the world. |
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Interestingly,
the much-remembered tragedy of the Salem witch hysteria brings the tourists
and their money to Salem, which in turn fuels restaurants, B&B’s, art
galleries, shops, and cultural events. That makes a place of historic
mystery a wonderful destination for a romantic weekend, especially in
Salem’s off season.
We
spent a romantic weekend in Salem exploring the history of the town. Witches
are only a fraction of Salem’s past; there were also wooden sailing ships
and Yankee traders… and maybe even a pirate or two.
The
trickle of tourists in the off season can’t support a lot of hotel rooms, so
overnight visitors year-round stay in B&B’s. We came as guests of the Salem
Inn, who hosted us in the Peabody House. The Peabody house was built in
1874 as the home to a wealthy merchant. Since then it became one of the
three Summer Street B&B properties all gathered under the label “Salem Inn”.
But
don’t leave it at that! Head on over to the House of Seven Gables and see
how the upper crust of the 1700’s lived. Explore the National Historic area
and see how the town’s sailing heritage shaped early Salem. And plan on
spending some time in the new Peabody-Essex art museum where you can see art
from around the world, evoking the sailing heritage of the town. You might
even catch the trolley to hear the narrated tour as you circle through
Salem’s narrow streets.
The
Peabody House, West House, and Curwen House are all parts of Salem Inn.
Find them at 7 Summer Street, Salem MA 01970, phone 978/741-0680 or look
them up online at