^TM

The Farmhouse IS Russian River Dining

By David Currier

West of Santa Rosa, California, on River Road, as ancient redwoods begin to share rolling hills with 19th-century grapevines, the Farmhouse Inn and Restaurant appears like a gatehouse for the Russian River Valley.  It's a picture postcard come to life.

The Farmhouse is not far from that deep, dark, secretive redwood forest known as The Bohemian Grove, where the world's most rich and powerful men gather to dine and dance in the moonlight and plot our collective futures. Here at the Farmhouse Restaurant, diners with tastes for similar exclusivity and elegance flock for one of the finest dining experiences Sonoma County has to offer.

Arrangements for our visit began after a visit to Davis Bynum Winery (about 3 miles down Westside/Wohler Road; www.davisbynum.com). I approached the front desk of the Farmhouse at about noon, hoping to confirm 7:30 P.M. dinner reservations. The hostess advised me that 5:30 P.M. was the "latest" that was available. We finally found a slot at 7:00 P.M. - three days later.

I confirmed our reservations with a credit card to guarantee that I'd cancel up to the reserved time. We left to sample spectacular wines of several more of the world famous wineries on the Russian River.

Returning to the restaurant at the appointed hour, the dining rooms were already bustling. Songs of the German cabaret singer Hildegard Knef played softly in the background.  Waiting to be seated, I knew I'd like this place when, past the pass-through to the kitchen, I observed neatly dressed employees smiling and joking as they added their artistic touches to the evening meals. 

The maitre d', Andreas Willausch, greeted us with his light German accent and reserved smile, and although we were a few minutes early, he graciously accommodated us.

The Farmhouse dining room colors - buttery yellow with snow-white trim - add an air of French-country style to this Victorian dwelling. Oversized barn red script on the yellow walls discuss the salty tasting brine of fresh oysters. Both dining rooms resonate a stylish "welcome". This evening's remaining bright California sunlight streaming in from the patio made the rear dining room particularly inviting. The front dining area, which has windows opening onto the flower-filled garden, has the original brick fireplace, perfect for cooler seasons. Weather permitting, al fresco meals are served on the terrace.

Andreas seated us, took our cocktail order and swiftly returned with two classic kirs royals. As the cool Chambord flavored bubbles burst on our tongues, my partner and I reminisced on 25 years of trips to the Russian River area from the East Coast, and what great dining experiences we have had in this area.

Our waiter came by with the day's menu. Although periodically modified by availability of seasonal items, the menu tends to change only if the chef finds something extra special in local markets. Everything is fresh and, thus, guests are not overwhelmed with a confusing speech about "our specials for tonight".

We were particularly impressed with our waiter's thoroughness, understanding of, and obvious pride in each of the menu options. Considering the Farmhouse's classic service, prices are reasonable. Appetizers from $7 - 14 include Maine lobster sausage, Maryland soft-shell crab and Bloomsdale Spinach salad with locally grown heirloom tomatoes, goat cheese and a bacon vinaigrette.

We selected fois gras and gazpacho.

The kirs kept us chatting while we considered our main course from the creative (but not pompous) menu. Individual dishes are priced from $27 to $34, and included choices of Alaskan halibut, Sonoma County duck breast and a lavender salt roasted rack of Sonoma raised (of course) lamb.

We both chose Rabbit-Rabbit-Rabbit. That's "rabbit-three-ways".

Our appetizers arrived.

The fois gras ($14) was elegant, sumptuous, and elicited a cooing sound at each bite! An ‘architectural wonder’, the fois gras stood atop a toasted slice of brioche, several small pieces of arugula, a triangle of grilled pineapple and a dollop of pinot noir-fig jam.

The cool, heirloom tomato gazpacho ($10) defied its temperature with its blazing fresh red color. Garnished with Dungeness crab salad, Tuscan olive oil and a mirepoix of vegetables surrounded by several slivers of chives, this gazpacho was the perfect accompaniment of a sunny Russian River summer day.

I opened the wine list. Of course, many Russian River wines are featured; however, classic European varieties are offered, too.  Fifty dollars is a mid-range price per bottle.  Some wines are available by the glass and half-bottles of several wines are offered.

Selecting a Russian River pinot noir, “La Neblina” from Radio Coteau ($54), I then asked our maitre d' for his recommendation. Surprisingly, he pointed to my choice, stating that it was an excellent pinot for the rabbit. (www.radiocoteau.com)

Permit me to interject. We often hear the term terroir when oenophiles discuss wine. A complex French term, it refers to the combination of the elements of local environment and their impact on the flavor, texture and quality of wines. I'm convinced that a wine’s terroir bursts forth more effectively to tease all your senses when your selected wine is produced in the area where you are dining – California, France, Hungary, Italy, etc. The air you are breathing is already infused with many of the traits of the wine. And Radio Coteau ‘broadcast’ its wonderful Russian River Valley terroir flawlessly.

Our waiter presented the “three” rabbits ($27): two loin pieces wrapped tightly with a thin strip of applewood-smoked bacon; a leg confit flavored with summer savory and oregano; an almost whimsical sautéed, moist  "rack of rabbit", with each rib "Frenched". The servings were seated on a swirl of whole grain mustard sauce prepared with a serious reduction of rabbit stock and heavy cream.

We decided to forego dessert, but would finish with the “cheese dégustation”.
I asked if it were possible to buy a single glass of the wine we had just finished, or perhaps something of a Rhone style. Andreas informed me that the restaurant had already paired two wines with the cheeses. Then began one of the most memorable presentations of cheese one could imagine. (Those happy cows of California would be proud! Fernando has been replaced by Andreas.)

The Farmhouse's cheese course is over the top in variety, artisanal quality and quantity. Andreas discussed each of the cheeses like a museum guide proudly reciting the provenance of each like that of a piece of artwork. A variety of cheeses made of sheep's milk, goat’s milk, cow’s milk and blends, our six cheeses this evening included three “musical” slices from Andante Dairy in (where else) Sonoma: Minuet, Acapela and Nocturne (www.andantedairy.com). Another from Auverne, France - Lavort; and Hoch from Switzerland.  These creamy delights were complimented by a large glass of French Beaujolais blanc from Terres Dorées. No need for an additional glass of the pinot noir that we had consumed with the rabbit.

The sixth cheese was a French blue; Persille Chevre du Beaujolais. And, no, it was not a port that was served, but a muscat from Campbell's Vineyards in Australia.

Yum! Yum! All this visually impeccable cheese and wine for one person; … we shared! (Supplement of $2.50 for shared items.)

Dress code - well.  Today, customers seem to think that since they are paying for the meal, they can wear what they feel comfortable in. We observed diners in jeans and t-shirts. I would have been very uncomfortable. No. I would not have worn those clothes, but neither is formal attire expected or appropriate. This is, after all, California.

With all the praise the Farmhouse is receiving from internationally recognized travel and dining publications, I sense that some of the Bohemian Grove's guests will soon be regulars at the Farmhouse Restaurant, too. Because of this popularity, reservations made at least 3 - 4 days in advance are required to avoid disappointment. Dinner hours are Thursday through Sunday from 5:30 – 9:00 P.M. Call 707-887-3300 for reservations

For more information, pictures, recipes, sample menus and wine lists, and information on their spa and inn, visit the Farmhouse website at www.farmhouseinn.com.

Back to TravelLady Magazine