|
Hawaii’s Big Island of Lanais and LuausBy Caroline M. Jackson
I awoke to the deafening pounding of surf against the unyielding molars of black lava. With a rhythm ordained by an unseen authority, the opal expanse of the Pacific churned and rippled before it changed into a crescendo of giant waves chased by rainbow-hued spumes of curling spray. One minute the jagged lava coastline was exposed, the next it was transformed into a white tablecloth of cascading waterfalls. Leaning towards this breathtaking scene, a thick fringe of palm trees bowed in abeyance, their fronds quivering in the ocean breeze. At arm’s length from my lanai, Hawaiian birds, delighted that the golden orb had risen yet once again, chortled and whistled as they sought out insects hidden in the palm crowns.
Although not well publicized, this floral treasure trove is well worth the drive north.
Just as this Island Breeze show ended, everyone lined up along the waterfront to watch a torch lighting ceremony and the arrival of the Hawaiian Royal Court by canoe at the beachfront. It was a splendid site and no-one seemed to be in a hurry for dinner.
Where we stayed: Royal Kona Resort: http://www.royalkona.com Contacts: Atlantis submarines:
http://www.atlantisadventures.com Hawaiian language: Aloha – familiar Hawaiian greeting and farewell Images by Hamish M. Jackson Email:
crestlyn@axionet.com |
|
TM
Coming
from northern climes, it was hard for me to believe this scene was
unchanging during every season of the year. Below me on the lush grounds of
the Royal Kona Resort, two kitchen staff hove into view. They were headed
for the imu, an open underground earthen oven being prepared for the evening
luau. After watching this traditional scenario, I was further entertained by
the arrival of a duo of tree trimmers. For the next hour I sat watching
these two lithe young men swing their way between the palm trees and
skillfully slashing wayward shoots and giant fronds with their machetes
deftly hanging from their hips. With only ropes for safety, they propelled
themselves up the swaying palms with nary a qualm. Their fleeting moments of
respite were only when they drenched their bodies from upturned water
bottles.
Sorely
tempted to spend the rest of the day on my well-appointed balcony, I
remembered I had booked a trip on the Atlantis, a submarine which was
leaving from the Kailua Pier in the adjacent village of Kona. Not having the
nerve to go deepwater diving, this was the next best alternative. I was not
disappointed. Built in my hometown of Vancouver, British Columbia, this
amazing little 80-ton submersible cost a cool four and a half million
dollars. On arrival at the pier, we were ushered aboard by competent staff
who informed us that in 15 years they have never had to use any safety
equipment. They also assured us that the vessel could be brought up 100 feet
in less than 45 seconds. It was a comforting thought in case anyone got the
bends.
Our
undersea venture was to be a wall dive so along with 22 other passengers, we
were instructed to sit on one side of the submarine looking through
portholes. After receiving comprehensive safety instructions and being
issued with fish identification cards, our dive was underway. Within
minutes, the coral wall environment came into view – finger, cauliflower,
plate, antler, wire and lobe corals which looked a bit like lumpy mashed
potato. Once our eyes grew accustomed to the unfamiliar watery environment,
we spotted shoals of colorful fish - the Grand-eyed Emperor with its
human-like teeth, a peacock grouper, yellow tangs and the long-nosed
butterfly fish. One of the most productive fish is the purple-hued parrot
fish which chomps on chunks of coral and provides 70% of Hawaii’s sand
beaches. One such fish can create six pounds of sand per day which
translates into a ton of sand per fish per year. It was heartening to learn
that this area had recently been declared a protected area.
We
had planned on photographing the colorful coral tapestry, but after we had
gone below 15 feet, the true color red was lost. Towards the end of our
dive, we turned away from the wall and descended to the sea floor at a depth
of 122 feet. The maximum allowed by the coastguard is 150 feet. Now we
hovered over the sandy sea floor, home of large edible horseshoe crabs. All
too soon, it was time to surface. Because the vessel doesn’t have a
periscope, a large bubble is sent to the surface so that the surface officer
pinpoints our location and makes sure the area is clear from surface traffic
such as speedboats, swimmers, etc. At forty feet, the vessel is buoyant and
unstoppable, so the final ascent is quite rapid. After a giant blast on the
hooter, we watch the depth guage as we head towards watery rays of sunshine
reflected on the surface bubbles. As the hatch is opened and we climb up the
ladder, I feel a little Jonah and blink in the bright sunshine. It has
been a unique and thrilling experience and best of all, I wasn’t even wet.
Feeling
a little peckish, we headed for Kona’s outdoor market where we loaded our
cooler with POG (Papaya, Orange and Guava juice), fresh macadamia nuts and
dried papayas. This would be our nourishment as we drove along the coastline
to our next destination, the 45-acre Pua Mau Place Arboretum & Botanical
Garden. Our route took us north from Kailua-Kona along Queen Ka’ahumanu
Highway towards the west slope of the Kohala Mountains. This part of the Big
Island is sliced by deep ravines and the Arboretum nestles in Keanahalululu
Gulch just past the six mile marker. Positioned on an arid, exposed
escarpment above the sparkling Pacific Ocean, the garden is dependent upon
irrigation water from two deep wells bored through lava rock. With the early
afternoon the sun beating down on our backs, we picked up a map at the
Pikake Gallery and gift shop and began our walk along the mulched paths. Our
first stop was the walk-in aviary with its variety of colorful birds
including pea and guinea fowl.
An
uphill hike then took us past canyon walls brimming with delicate
bougainvillea. Around each corner was another spectacular view of the ocean
or a walled tapestry of exotic tropical flowers. It is appropriate that the
name Pua Mau means ‘ever-blooming’ in native Hawaiian. While draining the
last of our water bottles, we stood at the red lava rock canyon viewpoint
and absorbed the scene before us – the date palm grove, the lavender trail
and the many whimsical animal sculptures that were randomly placed
throughout the grounds.
As
the sun dipped towards the ocean, we retraced our steps south towards the
village of Kailua-Kona where we had tickets for a luau at King Kamehameha’s
Kona Beach Hotel. Unsure of our driving time, we arrived at the hotel a few
minutes early and had time to wander around this historic building. The
spacious lobby sports portraits of Hawaii’s royalty and glass cases display
artifacts which tell the story of King Kamehameha’s life and times. But
there was no time to delay; the crowds were amassing and we went with the
flow. First on the agenda was an opportunity to learn one of the Polynesian
arts and crafts. Quickly everyone was involved in learning a hula, weaving a
fish from a coconut frond, or watching how to open a coconut. I got lost in
the ‘coconut’ crowd as everyone’s eyes followed a young Hawaiian nimbly
climbing one of the palm trees. His sense of humor had the crowd enthralled
and thankfully no-one was hit by a falling coconut.
However,
we were soon shepherded to our outdoor tables in front of a stage. The
buffet was sumptuous with pork from the imu, fish, chicken, Hawaiian sweet
potato, pineapple wedges, banana bread and coconut cake. Of course, there
was the Hawaiian staple known as poi, a gooey purple concoction made from
taro roots, which I gingerly poked with my fork. All this was washed down
with Kona coffee.
Satiated,
we sat back and enjoyed the lively entertainment from the Polynesian
islands. Fiji was represented with its traditional spear dance, Tahiti with
its drum rhythms and the painted-face Maori warrior dance from New Zealand
which nearly gave me nightmares. Last but not least, was the Samoan fire
knife dance. Fortunately a sheer fire curtain was drawn across the stage to
protect the diners from flaming arrows landing in their Mai Tais. This luau
had been unique not only because of the setting, but because the whole
evening evoked a sense of history and tradition. I think the Hawaiian rulers
of old would have been pleased.