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By GEORGE, I Think They've Got It

By David Currier

No, Eliza Doolittle was not at the grand opening party of GEORGE on September 15th. And neither was Rex Harrison. But celebrated Dallas was! GEORGE has become Dallas' new restaurant-where-one-should-be-seen.

GEORGE is the creation of renowned Dallas restaurateurs chef George W. Brown, Jr. and his wife-chef (or is it chef-wife) Katie. George and Katie have created a dining room that exudes contemporary Euro-flair.

A review of the menu makes its popularity understandable. The frequently changed menu offers main courses of wild game, lamb, prime beef, poultry, seafood and fresh vegetables based on availability of seasonal products

Chefs Browns’ creativity is on display in appetizers like coconut red pepper soup and sea bass with shitake mushrooms, or the heirloom tomato salad with feta cheese and klamata olives, or my favorite, the perfectly cooked pan seared diver scallops with pomegranate and brown butter. Reasonably priced, even the most expensive appetizer, of Hudson Valley seared foie gras is only $15.

Main courses that perked up my taste buds are the crispy duck breast with roast baby carrots and blackberry demi glace ($25), the rice flour crusted sea bass with wasabi potato dumpling and a green mango slaw ($29), and, for the Maine hunter in me, the grilled venison with fennel beet couscous and an aged balsamic 'au jus' ($26).

A la carte vegetables are available to accompany your main course, including baby spinach leaves in a light toasted garlic sauce, grilled asparagus with roast shallot vinaigrette, and Mom's mashed potatoes ($5 each).

About 50 domestic and international wines comprise the excellent wine list; most from $20 - 80, and a fine French Burgundy and about five Napa reds at $99 - $268. The variety of wines available by the glass is refreshing.

After our meal, I could not resist dessert. These "treats" include baked lemon pudding with blackberries and mascarpone cream, coconut lime soup with summer fruits and guava syrup, and the vanilla bean Bavarian peaches in honey sauce ($5 each).

An artesian cheese plate is available which includes breads, nuts and fruits ($7).

The tastefully chic bar service, provided by an enthusiastic staff, offers a collection of seasonal cocktail specials in addition to your own favorites. Priced at $7 - 9, such thirst quenching names as French lemonade, caipirinha (from Brazil), absolutely mango, and the super dessert sparkler which is a colorful flute of extra dry sparkling wine, blood orange infused vodka and a splash of campari.

GEORGE is a restaurant for chic attire. That’s not to mean tux or gown, or jacket and tie or formal-dress is out of place. But the beautiful people and contemporary fashion meld well with the blizzard-white décor including flowing white sheers separating two private dining areas from the main dining room. Coordinate your colors accordingly!

Located at 7709 Inwood Road, Dallas 75209, GEORGE will be open for dinner only on Tuesday through Saturday from 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. Reservations are recommended @ 214-366-9100 or by email @ reservations@georgerestaurant.com.

Photo credits Otmar Nytra

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