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A Chocolate Adventure From Bean to Bar

By Erika Wright

One of the reasons I love Germany is because I love the chocolate. Recently, I had the pleasure of visiting one of Cologne’s most famous attractions - the Chocolate Museum. Although the museum was founded just 12 years ago, the museum has acquired a celebrity of its own. Every person I asked for directions (and I had to ask a few, although the museum is quite easy to find) whether locals or tourists had no problem telling me exactly where the museum is located and how to get there. In fact locals seemed rather proud of their museum, and I don’t blame them one bit. The decadent smell of chocolate greets you as you walk through the door, and it only gets better from there.

The museum sits on the Rhine in an impressive ship shaped construction of glass and metal. It is very open and airy and modern inside. I was fortunate enough to receive a personal tour from Martin van Almsick, Director of Marketing. Martin knows his museum and he knows chocolate. It was quite evident that he enjoys working in this magical place where, he is proud to mention, people leave with a smile on their face. Martin defines chocolate as a “luxurious” drink which leaves one “in a nice mood,” as opposed to coffee which he describes as a “violent way to begin the day.”

While sipping a very tasty cocoa on the terrace overlooking the Rhine, Martin told me that Cologne “is Germany’s chocolate capital”. The Stollwerck chocolate company was based in Cologne. It was an enormous company which was, at one time, the second largest supplier of chocolate in the US. Because it was so large, and Cologne is actually quite small, most of the people of Cologne know, or are related to someone who once worked in the chocolate factory. This is part of why Cologne residents feel connected to chocolate. The other reason? Well, chocolate just has that something special about it, don’t you think?

The chocolate museum started as an exhibit meant to celebrate the 150th anniversary of Stollwerk. The exhibit was so successful, that the idea of a full scale museum quickly grew from it and the Chocolate Museum opened its doors on October 31st, 1993. This self financed museum now welcomes more than 5 million visitors a year with an average of 2000 visitors a day. The idea behind the museum is to “speak about the quality of chocolate”. Martin says that he wants people to understand the difference between the more expensive, finely crafted chocolates and the cheaper versions sold in the grocery store so that consumers can make a more informed decision and will know why it is worthwhile to reach for the expensive stuff.

The museum was set up to be a very interactive experience. The layout starts at the beginning with pictures of cacao plants and takes the visitor through the entire process from bean to bar. Large color are accompanied by explanations (in both German and English) about cultivation and harvesting, the different kinds of cocoa, and the fermentation process.

Visitors next walk through a small greenhouse where they actually feel the tropical conditions and see what the cocoa plant really looks like. A fellow visitor pointed out that, considering how much chocolate the average person consumes, it is kind of funny how few actually know what the plant looks like. There is even a chocolate school which offers hands on experience with each stage of chocolate production. I was interested to find out how a raw cocoa bean actually tastes – much like a bitter chocolate baking bar – but without the silky smoothness.

The museum next takes the visitor through industrialization and the invention of the machines which allowed chocolate to become the smooth, silky texture we are accustomed to. Martin says that 140 years ago, chocolate meant drinking chocolate. This is because before the grinding machines were invented, everything else had a rough and sandy texture. The machines are each very unique and cannot be easily exchanged. The slightest change can cause a detectible difference in the finished product.

At the chocolate museum visitors are invited to look into the machines and see how each process is completed. Perhaps one of my favorite moments at the museum, was when I was handed a wafer dripping with hot liquid chocolate from the “chocolate fountain.” Delicious!

Although the museum does make chocolate, it does so only for demonstration purposes. They only produce 400 kilograms a day. The mission of the museum is to explain the little known facts of how this favorite treat is made and there were some surprises along the way. For example, do you know how those hollow forms are made? You’ll have to visit to find out, but I’ll give you a hint … think centrifugal force. Martin also told me that one should never ever put chocolate in the refrigerator because it kills the natural aromas and degrades the quality of the chocolate.

As well as the technical and historical aspects of chocolate, the museum also goes into the social aspect of the 3000 years of chocolate’s cultural history. The museum pays homage to the South American origins of chocolate and the role it played in South American society. In Europe in the 17th and 18th centuries, chocolate was expensive and therefore only enjoyed by the wealthy. The museum displays various types of porcelain created specifically for drinking chocolate. Finally there is quite a bit of attention given to advertising and commercials. It is interesting to look back in time to see how chocolate was packaged and marketed. There is even a commercial which lauds the high number of calories in a chocolate bar, back when calories were something to be sought after.

On the way out, don’t forget to visit the shop for postcards, books, truffles and souvenirs or enjoy a snack (not everything is chocolate – they have salads and sandwiches too!) in the café.

Essential Information:

Admission:
Tuesday to Friday 10 am to 6 pm (last admission at 5 pm).
Saturday and Sunday 11 am to 7 pm (last admission at 6 pm).

Guided tours, parties, conferences, and even a guided walk through the city are available by booking in advance.

They also offer 3 hour workshops where visitors can learn to make pralines themselves.

Imhoff-Stollwerck-Musuem
Rheinauhafen 1a
D-50678 Cologne
Germany
+49-221/93 18 88-0

Or visit them on the web at  www.schokoladenmuseum.de (almost entirely in German)

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